ElHurrecan
Cadet
- Joined
- May 25, 2017
- Messages
- 15
I have a thread going where I'm restoring the floor and transom on an old "Hurrecan" skiff (If you're interested see my post history). I'm going with epoxy and from advice from another thread I will be ordering 1700 no-mat bi axial for everything.
A few questions
1. How should the final product look?
A buddy is doing a restoration on an old Whaler. He used 1708-biaxial (his had mat) with epoxy and his finished product looks as follows. Should the mat be "white" with clear spots or does that indicate the resin did not completely work it's way into the mat? His application technique was to wet the glass base, lay the mat, then brush resin into the mat. He used a finroller to work out bubbles.
2. Application technique
Most of the videos I see online are for either small repairs or polyester resin. I see the resin applied with a roller. Do you recommend a roller over a brush? I will be doing flat areas (floor and transom).
3. Overlapping the 1700 mat
My boat is 55" wide. Given that the mat is sold in 36" widths I have to overlap. Should the mat overlap? This will obviously create a hump. Is the following a good plan to lay the mat? Essentially I tab in the floors (going a few inches onto the floor and up the hull, lay a piece of mat down the center, then overlap the center map and tabbing with a third layer.
(Full Res - https://www.iboats.com/sites/defaul.../public/images/gallery/test.png?itok=UqwXZaUs)
4. Finishing
Given that I'm using the 1700 mat the "weave" pattern may show through. I also have the humps from the overlapping to deal with. Would pouring a layer of epoxy thickened w\ fairing compound (West Systems 410) across the whole floor be a good idea? My plan is to cover everything with a uniform layer of epoxy in a similar way to pouring self-leveling concrete. I also have something to sand into as opposed to the glass.
A few questions
1. How should the final product look?
A buddy is doing a restoration on an old Whaler. He used 1708-biaxial (his had mat) with epoxy and his finished product looks as follows. Should the mat be "white" with clear spots or does that indicate the resin did not completely work it's way into the mat? His application technique was to wet the glass base, lay the mat, then brush resin into the mat. He used a finroller to work out bubbles.
2. Application technique
Most of the videos I see online are for either small repairs or polyester resin. I see the resin applied with a roller. Do you recommend a roller over a brush? I will be doing flat areas (floor and transom).
3. Overlapping the 1700 mat
My boat is 55" wide. Given that the mat is sold in 36" widths I have to overlap. Should the mat overlap? This will obviously create a hump. Is the following a good plan to lay the mat? Essentially I tab in the floors (going a few inches onto the floor and up the hull, lay a piece of mat down the center, then overlap the center map and tabbing with a third layer.
(Full Res - https://www.iboats.com/sites/defaul.../public/images/gallery/test.png?itok=UqwXZaUs)
4. Finishing
Given that I'm using the 1700 mat the "weave" pattern may show through. I also have the humps from the overlapping to deal with. Would pouring a layer of epoxy thickened w\ fairing compound (West Systems 410) across the whole floor be a good idea? My plan is to cover everything with a uniform layer of epoxy in a similar way to pouring self-leveling concrete. I also have something to sand into as opposed to the glass.
