Generator wiring?

notinbig

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 26, 2003
Messages
384
How does one wire in a generator to certain circuits?<br /><br />Do you add a sub panel and "pigtail" into the circuits you want powered, then shut down the main panels supply so in case it comes on while generator is running? We loose power and with well water no power means no shower. Also it's just Ohm's law to figure out how big a generator would run how many circuits right? Power(watts)=Current X Volts? right? P=IxE<br /><br />Thanks ya'll, no rush powers back on. :D
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
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May 19, 2001
Messages
26,065
Re: Generator wiring?

Yes the gen must be isolated from the rest of the system to prevent backfeeding.<br /><br />They sell boxes to do the job and they are pricey.<br /><br />I too have a well but mine is 220 and would take one big gen to run it. Those well pumps suck the power!<br /><br />Bob
 

PierBridge

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2004
Messages
625
Re: Generator wiring?

A backup generator is usually powered by a conventional internal combustion engine.<br />The two main types of residential generators are portable and permanent standby. If you plan to power a few lights, your refrigerator and a furnace, a less expensive portable generator may provide enough power. If you intend to run your lights and furnace—along with a well pump, a freezer and other major appliances—you will need a permanent standby model. <br />Typically such a generator is mounted on a concrete pad and connected directly to your home's electrical circuits via an automatic transfer switch that starts the generator during a blackout and shuts it off when grid power returns (more on transfer switches later). <br /><br />If your home is grid-connected, you don't need to spend a lot of money on a backup generator to weather the occasional power outage because typically, backup generators are used less than 50 hours a year. Large standby generators can cost several thousand dollars, but smaller portable models will power basic necessities and cost $1,000 or less, some as little as $400. Even a less expensive generator will run at least 500 hours, giving you about 10 years of service. But if you plan to install solar or wind power, or you live in a rural area on a distribution line that suffers frequent power outages, you will need a larger capacity generator. Those that back up renewable energy systems operate between 100 and 200 hours a year. The load is heavier because they run your household and recharge your renewable energy system's batteries at the same time. <br /><br />Regardless of what size generator you need, it is important to shop around and do your research—prices vary greatly from brand to brand and, according to Consumer Reports, some models deliver less power than they promise. Best-buy-rated models were the Generac 5500 WheelHouse and the Troy-Bilt 5550 (each $650<br /><br />SIZING YOUR GENERATOR<br /><br />It's important to match the size of your generator to your electrical needs. An undersized generator won't last long and can destroy motors and other electrical equipment that require more current than the generator can deliver. Generators are rated by their maximum electrical power output in kilowatts. (A kilowatt equals 1,000 watts, or enough energy to light 10 100-watt light bulbs.) For greatest efficiency and to prolong your generator's life, operate it at no more than 75 percent of its capacity. <br /><br />To calculate the generator size you need, total the wattage of the appliances and other items you want to simultaneously power and then double that number. If you plan to power several appliances, you need to account for their starting or "surge" requirements. You can find this information on the appliance or in its manual. <br /><br />Most homeowners will need a 5-kilowatt portable generator to power a heating system and a few other essentials (a furnace uses from about 1,800 watts to 3,500 watts, depending on the type of furnace and the size of the house). A generator of this size will cost at least $600 and, when running at 50-percent load, wlll consume about half a gallon of gasoline per hour. Larger portable generators use more fuel and cost up to $3,000. Permanent standby generators with automatic operation generally cost between $2,200 and $10,000. <br />If you are just going to power one or two appliances or a few lights, you may be able to use an extension cord to connect them to your generator. Be sure to use a heavy-duty cord that won't cause excessive voltage drop. Saving a few dollars by buying a cheap extension cord for an expensive genset is foolish and potentially dangerous—an overheated extension cord is a fire hazard. Dragging extension cords out to your generator in the middle of a stormy night can be a real pain, too, but it is the cheapest approach. <br /><br />A much safer but more expensive approach is a transfer switch. If you plan to back up appliances that can't be unplugged from your home's electrical circuits —such as your furnace or boiler—or you want to power all your household lighting, then you must have a transfer switch, also known as a bypass switch. These special electrical panels work somewhat like your main circuit breaker panel and are available in manual and automatic models. Many city and state electrical codes require a transfer switch and you may need a permit or inspection to have one installed.<br /><br />A basic manual transfer switch costs about $200 and should be installed by a licensed electrician. The installation will cost about $300 (more if extensive rewiring is needed). Your electrician will connect the circuits you want to power. In the event of a power failure, you plug your generator into the panel with a special power cord and switch the circuits from utility power to your generator. When the blackout is over, you switch the circuits back to utility power. This eliminates having both power sources on the selected circuits at the same time and the possibility of sending electricity to the grid lines when utility crews are working on them. A transfer switch also will protect your generator from surge damage when grid power is restored. <br /><br />An automatic transfer switch accomplishes the same tasks as a manual model, except, as its name implies, it functions automatically. Automatic transfer switches cost at least $600 and work with generators that turn on when the grid goes down and shut off when electricity resumes. If your stand by— generator is going to power your entire house, then the transfer switch needs the same rating as your main breaker panel. If you only want to power certain circuits, a smaller-capacity transfer switch will work fine. Finally, if you have a natural gas- or propane-powered generator, you need to have a licensed plumber or pipe-fitter install the gas connections.
 

GatorMike

Ensign
Joined
Aug 3, 2003
Messages
902
Re: Generator wiring?

Quote<br /><br />If your home is grid-connected, you don't need to spend a lot of money on a backup generator to weather the occasional power outage because typically, backup generators are used less than 50 hours a year.<br /><br /><br />You don't live in Florida do you? Just kidding but seriously a lot of us down here wore out 2 or 3 portable generators last year living off generator power for weeks. Between Charlie, Jeanne and Fransis my power was off for 13 days. I wore out 1 brand new generator and put over 100 hrs on another one. I consider myself one of the lucky ones many were hit harder.
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Generator wiring?

I run the whole house off a 5000 watt Coleman 240 portable. You can't go around turning everything on, but it sure beats having a few dedicated circuits in the house. And the critical utilities like well, stove, fridge and furnace run. Also tv, garage door opener, all lights, phones, PC, microwave etc. are there for you. Just be selective and turn the lights off where you don't need them. We can even use a burner on the stove and run the clothswasher. For the 3 or 4 times a year that power goes off (usually from a storm) it's great to have this setup. I have run the house for 3 days on the generator. It uses about 5 gallons in 8 hours. Next time I buy a generator, it will be a permanent setup large enough to run the A/C.
 

notinbig

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 26, 2003
Messages
384
Re: Generator wiring?

Mark42, How is yours wired into your house? is there an isolation box or transfer switch?
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Generator wiring?

I have a 40 amp 240 line from circuit pannel to a box in the garage with a on/off switch that controls a 8ft power cord that plugs into the generator. <br /><br />When power is off I start the generator, plug it in, go to basement turn off mains, turn on breakers to 240 circuit, back to garage and flip the switch. Power is on.<br /><br />It is simple and works, but you must be careful to not have the mains on when doing this because your generator will try to power up the neighborhood and any service people working on the problem. Some folks will have a fit over this setup. <br /><br />A nice feature is to add a switched light and bell somewhere between the power meter and the main breakers so when power is restored you will know.<br /><br />A main disconnect A/B switch will do the same but I haven't found one yet. I'll have to look in Dr Frankensteins power supply catalog.
 

SS MAYFLOAT

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2001
Messages
6,372
Re: Generator wiring?

Lowes and Home Depot now carry the tranfer/breaker panels for generators. Can't remember the price but I think it is between 200 and 300 bucks. The one form HDepot was rated for 7500 watts.
 
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