Well everyone, IT has begun! I took out the old seats and ripped up the carpet today. I only had about 2 hours time before I ran out of light. The story is this.... I bough the boat and did some of the checks everyone suggests on here. All seemed well when I bought it. I guess I didn't check it thoroughly enough at the seller's place because of excitement (stupid emotions). Because when I got it home and started digging through things a little more I found some rot at the bottom of the transom. Not much, until I started poking at it a little harder then the wood just started pushing away and coming out all over. It is about half rotted.
Then i realized the floor was a little squishy right in front of the bilge area. I pulled the carpet back to reveal two large holes from the factory pouring in the floatation foam. They did seal them!!! The resin seal on the flooring was cracked every where because glastron didn't put any CSM in it. So the floor rotted. I picked bits of the floor away in the very back where the stringers end and could feel the end of the stringer were rotten. So my quick transom repair turned into a full restoration in a day!
This is just the beginning. It was too dark to take pictures (need to pull out my fluorecent lights), but I will take some tomorrow at the beginning of the day. I only have a couple hours during the week to work on this and about a day on the weekends. My next step is to build an engine stand, winterize and remove the engine, then work on labeling and removing the wiring. After that I will pull the cap and let the grinding begin.
One question. Is it ok to remove the floor and stringers and just use the trailer bunks as the supports to hold the shape of the hull once it is stripped? Once the hull is stripped I plan on pulling the boat off the trailer and flipping it to fix some scratches/gouges on the hull. Then build a 2x4 bracing structure for it. Any input would be great.
Another question. I was looking for deck and transom wood today. All I could find at Lowe's was ACX plywood. I could find anything labeled AC like people talk about on here. Is this ok to use?
Then i realized the floor was a little squishy right in front of the bilge area. I pulled the carpet back to reveal two large holes from the factory pouring in the floatation foam. They did seal them!!! The resin seal on the flooring was cracked every where because glastron didn't put any CSM in it. So the floor rotted. I picked bits of the floor away in the very back where the stringers end and could feel the end of the stringer were rotten. So my quick transom repair turned into a full restoration in a day!
This is just the beginning. It was too dark to take pictures (need to pull out my fluorecent lights), but I will take some tomorrow at the beginning of the day. I only have a couple hours during the week to work on this and about a day on the weekends. My next step is to build an engine stand, winterize and remove the engine, then work on labeling and removing the wiring. After that I will pull the cap and let the grinding begin.
One question. Is it ok to remove the floor and stringers and just use the trailer bunks as the supports to hold the shape of the hull once it is stripped? Once the hull is stripped I plan on pulling the boat off the trailer and flipping it to fix some scratches/gouges on the hull. Then build a 2x4 bracing structure for it. Any input would be great.
Another question. I was looking for deck and transom wood today. All I could find at Lowe's was ACX plywood. I could find anything labeled AC like people talk about on here. Is this ok to use?
