Gluvit for a Lone Star?

Joined
Mar 13, 2004
Messages
28
Im in the middle of a resto on an aluminum Lone Star pocket cruiser, and have a few questions ... the hull is water tight, but it is a 47 year old boat, would it be a good idea to put down a coat of self etching zinc chromate primer then apply a coat of gluvit to insure against future leaks or is the primer unneccessary, just go with the gluvit? shes cleaned out to the bare hull, and I want to get the floor in, but only want to do the floor once<br /><br />any thoughts on this would be appreciated
 

snapperbait

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2002
Messages
5,754
Re: Gluvit for a Lone Star?

I believe that you'd want to put the gluvit down onto clean bare aluminum, sans primer...<br /><br />Might want to scuff up the area for good adhesion before you slop the gluvit in there... Little wire wheel action... ;)
 

Winger Ed.

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Messages
649
Re: Gluvit for a Lone Star?

Originally posted by Commander McBraggg:<br />Im in the middle of a resto on an aluminum Lone Star pocket cruiser,
I love those old Aluminum hulls. I'm running a 1968 21' Cherokee at present, with a Chevy 4cyl. Mercruiser. <br /><br />When I did the overhaul/re-work on mine back in '94, I cleaned the Aluminum braces & skin under the floor real well, washed it down with the acid stuff called Alumi-prep the primer manufacturer recomends, then primed it with a 2-part epoxy Chromate primer, PPG's DP-40 *. <br /><br />*<br />the 2-part epoxys are waterproof. They are light weight, stick like 'poo-poo' on a baby blanket, and do a good job of resisting corrosion. <br /><br />Since you can't see it, I just brushed the primer on under the floor. All the styrofoam had waterlogged, and I figured the next bunch I put in would too after a few years, so I stuffed it with well rinsed & cleaned out plastic bottles. I used bottles containing soap, motor oil, soda-pop, and anti-freeze.. anything tough, and with a screw on cap. <br /><br />I ended up with plenty of flotation, and the space under the floor can semi-ventilate, Water won't collect and get stuck anywhere either. It might be my imagination, but I think all the bottles are lighter than the styrofoam too. (My Cherokee only sits about 3-4 inches deep in the water with 20 gallons of fuel & 2 car batteries, its light, planes out real fast, and with the 4cyl Chevy. it almost looks like it doesn't use any gas going 20-something to almost 30 knots.)<br /><br />I did the floor with 1/2 inch plywood instead of 3/4. I used the green pressure treated stuff- well dried out in the Texas sunshine, and re-sealed it with a bunch of Thompson's water treatment. I just flooded the Thomson's onto it after plywood was cut to shape. The floor is a little flexible which isn't a big deal, it shouldn't absorb water or rot though, but weighs about 150-200 pounds less than if I'd used 3/4. <br /><br />If it was me--<br />I'd be a little lery of putting anything on the project that adds weight and isn't really necessary. Glovit is pretty heavy for the coverage you get, and look at how well the area under the floor did without anything on it for all those years. <br /><br />Since mine is a trailer boat, I just sprayed the epoxy primer on the outside too, and put a premium automotive finish on the entire outside & inside of the hull. It's still looks great, just like the day I pulled the masking tape off it. <br /><br />If you are going to put a anti-fouling bottom paint below the water line:<br /><br />Hoist it up and put 2 good coats of Epoxy primer on first. If one molecule of the bottom paint touches the bare Aluminum, it will set up a di-electric cell and eat holes in the hull** when you put it in the water. <br /><br />**<br />I learned this from experiance. Even the humidity in the air will let the reaction start and chew on it pretty well after 3-4 years.<br /><br />Good luck,<br /><br />Ed.
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2004
Messages
28
Re: Gluvit for a Lone Star?

wire wheel sounds like a good idea for sure<br /><br />Ive often thought about the whole bottle deal, rattling around under the boards is what concerns me, although I imagine if you stuff enough of them under there they cant budge, dunno ... not worried about the 3/4 inch stuff, lots of fishermen on board, need that strength, tho I could go 1/2 if I glass it up, but then the weight factor comes right back again<br /><br />sure is tricky figuring out all those odds and ends, but once shes done shell be a beauty<br /><br />thanks for the ideas<br /><br /> :D
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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71,090
Re: Gluvit for a Lone Star?

Winger Ed,<br />Welcome to iboats........ <br />
I used bottles containing soap, motor oil, soda-pop, and anti-freeze.. anything tough, and with a screw on cap. <br />I did the floor with 1/2 inch plywood instead of 3/4. I used the green pressure treated stuff- well dried out in the Texas sunshine,
After reading some of My Posts,<br />You'll see Why, I Think You + I are going to Get Along just Fine.................. :D
 

Winger Ed.

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Messages
649
Re: Gluvit for a Lone Star?

Originally posted by Bondo:<br />Winger Ed,<br />Welcome to iboats........ <br /> After reading some of My Posts,<br />You'll see Why, I Think You + I are going to Get Along just Fine.................. :D
...<br /><br />I have read several of them. They are full of insight and wisdom,,(LOL),, plus, they made me feel vindicated. <br /><br />I seem to re-invent the wheel all by myself sometimes. I did the bottle thing on the 21' Cherokee back in the mid-90s. Everyone I knew that could stop laughing before they passed out, said I was crazy. Except my ex-wife, she figured I was barely smart enough to feed myself anyway.<br /><br />I'm in the middle of building a 16' all Aluminum OB Hydro at present. Its a late 50's design 'F' type. I widened, lenghtened, & modified the plans for it for a 200 Merc. and a extra 100 pounds of driver. The sponsons & sides of the hull are being foamed pretty much solid for strength & rigidity. I'm stuffing it with bottles too. They'll be totally encapsulated inside the 2 part foam. I figure it'll make that expensive foam go farther, and the voids they make are actually lighter than the foam itself. I just need to careful that a screw or drilling rivet holes doesn't hit one and let it eventually fill & trap water. <br /><br />I just put up a progress report for the Hydro over at the 'Racers Hangout' on the "Scream & Fly" board. The thread is 'Aluminum Hydro. 25Mar Progress report'<br />(That's where I started, and the bonafide OB racers over there have helped me A BUNCH.)<br /><br />///////<br /><br />The Bondo name caught my eye. I'm in the auto re-finish business as a supplier. I sell about 200 gallons of the stuff a month. I often worry about guys that come in, get a case of Bondo, and a pint of paint.<br /><br />Someone with such a nickname might be one of those guys who make fenders & hoods from the stuff, and should bear considerable watching. Har, har, har,<br /><br />Ed.
 
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