Good guide on redoing the floor in a vintage Lone Star Flamingo?

[Mr. Asa]

The boat is from the late 50s, early 60s. The floor and transom are shot. I know what to do with the transom, but the flooring is a new world for me. Fiberglass work is also a new world for me, previously I've only had old aluminum boats.

In this https://i.imgur.com/LWPbRj1.jpg, you can see a lip of the original fiberglass. The original flooring was underneath that lip. I assume that I cut that lip back all the way to the hull? What are the best products to use? Marine Plywood and epoxy?

What else do I need to plan for? Is there a good thread or two of people reflooring these boats?

 

[sphelps]

This is a good start https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...394579-1961-lonestar-flamingo-splashed-w-pics
Woodonglass has a great link on the bottom of his page that will help ..

 

[kcassells]

Yup! Like Sam said.

 

[Mr. Asa]

Thanks guys, looks like a good thread to start in. Any thoughts on what I'm looking at pricewise for flooring, transom, and fiberglass supplies?
I'll be doing it for cheap and to get back out on the water after too long off of it, so a high-low estimate is what I'm looking for.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Hmmm.... if only there was someone here who not only knows Lonestar Flamingo boats but also is a fiberglass/boat restoration wizard... that sort of person would be a real resource... oh, Woodonglass , the hotline is ringing for you!

 

[sphelps]

I may be mistaken but I think you have foam cored stringers and are all glass .. Depending on how elaborate you get with materials my guess is you could make it structurally sound and kinda pretty for around 1500 ish ? Thats if you dont need to replace the stringers .

 

[Mr. Asa]

I may be mistaken but I think you have foam cored stringers and are all glass .. Depending on how elaborate you get with materials my guess is you could make it structurally sound and kinda pretty for around 1500 ish ? Thats if you dont need to replace the stringers .

From all I can see and feel, the stringers are solid. I tried getting a picture inside them but wasn't able to see that far in.

I'm kind of hoping to get this thing on the water for cheaper than that. Not a completely finished product, but a good floor and transom. If you've seen Roadkill, when they are working on a car they often separate into the necessary Vs the cosmetic stuff. Get it floating and on the water, work on the rest of it later

 

[sphelps]

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/7/7a/Lonestarb60007.jpg

You can keep the cost down some by using poly resin and using just a good ext grade plywood instead of marine grade .
It just needs to be made with water proof glue ... Just guessing about 3 sheets if stringers are good ..
2 sheets 1/2” and one 3/4 for the transom .. Start with a 5 gal pail of resin then re-order as needed .. Hopefully you have a source for fiberglass nearby so you can save on shipping and hazmat fee’s ...
Paint the deck instead of gellcoat can save a little .. You can use reg rusto enamel but would highly recommend using the enamel hardener with it .. You can get that from Tractor Supply ...

 

[Scott Danforth]

in the DIY stickies at the top of the forum. read links 14, 15, and 18........and yes, when you get to 15, go back to page 1 and read the complete Flamingo thread by Woodonglass

 

[Mr. Asa]

I've wondered about PT or exterior plywood. Would there be any reason to not use the PT? I know there is for aluminum boats, but this should be all fiberglass or stainless steel.

FGCI is just across the bridge from me and just down the road from work so the re e should be no issue with that.

I'll read those DIY links shortly.

 

[chevymaher]

No pressure treated. Glass wont stick to it and i believe I heard there is a adverse corrosion reaction with aluminum. Somebody be along to clarify the last point in a moment.

 

[Mr. Asa]

I know there is a bad reaction to aluminum. It forms a galvanic cell (if I remember correctly) between the aluminum and the copper in the PT chemicals when water is introduced. But there is little to no aluminum on a fiberglass boat.

I'd like to hear more about the resin or epoxy not sticking to the PT though. Exactly what I was trying to find out.

 

[chevymaher]

Sorry i thought it was aluminum. Still a no no tho.

 

[Woodonglass]

I restored that same boat about 10 years ago. Your stringers are fine Nothing to repair. For your deck I'd recommend using Exterior Grade 3/4" plywood. I'd also use Polyester resin and CSM along with 1708 Biaxial fabric for tabbing and Final layer on transom. If you follow the rules for using Polyester resin your boat will last for decades. The chemicals used in PT plywood inhibit the poly from adhering well UNLESS you store it in your garage for a month or two and ensure that those chemicals are totally "Gassed Off" and cured. Search the forum for deck installations and you'll find ALL the info you need for the processes needed. I'll be happy to help any way I can.

 

[Mr. Asa]

Good to see you visiting here Wood, I really enjoyed your restoration thread.
Wet vs Dry PT and adhesion makes a lot of sense.

I've been told that polyester resin absorbs water over time and to use something guaranteed water absorption prevention. Any thoughts on that?

I am missing the splash well for mine. I would like to know the measurements off of yours so that I can fabricate my own.

 

[Mr. Asa]

Against my better judgement, I'm weighing high tech options. It is a lot more than I wanted to spend, but based on what I've been talking about to others it sounds like it is what I'd want. I was potentially thinking about starting with the transom and use exterior plywood for the floor, then slowly swap them out as time goes by.
Lot of duplication of effort, but I know that there are going to be many things I'm going to want to change as I go and figure out what I want out of the boat, so it might work out.

Has anyone used any sort of composite boards? Coosa board http://coosacomposites.com/ or Micarta or whatnot?

 

[Scott Danforth]

you are over thinking it

no, poly doesnt soak up water.

as WOG stated, 3/4" exterior grade and poly

if you properly encapsulate.....the boat will out-last your grand children with proper maintenance

if you did a crappy job, the boat would still out-last you.

coosa is over-kill, however its your boat

 

[Mr. Asa]

you are over thinking it

A common problem of mine, to be honest.