got git-rot?

thunderbug

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Jun 9, 2010
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Been looking thru 100s of posts, and haven't found any mention of git-rot. Buddy of mine says they used it alot when he worked on boats up in Md. I've got an '88 Wellcraft CC that needs some transom work. Guess my question is can I use glycol method to stop rot and then git-rot to repair?
 

Cadwelder

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Re: got git-rot?

Git Rot is not recommended....as it is a patch and not a repair.....big difference.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: got git-rot?

IMHO those types of epoxies are used for hardening cosmetic wood for a better base of paint applications .. Not for structural at ALL ..

YD.
 

thunderbug

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Re: got git-rot?

Thank you all for your input, I knew it was too good to be true! Guess my next step is to look into a "poured transom". I'm not looking for a quick fix (unless you talk to my wife, who is ready to get on the water), but I am a novice at major boat repair. From the info I've gathered here, a poured transom seems the least invasive to the integrity of the hull. So, any input on this route on this boat?
 

Bondo

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Re: got git-rot?

Thank you all for your input, I knew it was too good to be true! Guess my next step is to look into a "poured transom". I'm not looking for a quick fix (unless you talk to my wife, who is ready to get on the water), but I am a novice at major boat repair. From the info I've gathered here, a poured transom seems the least invasive to the integrity of the hull. So, any input on this route on this boat?

Ayuh,... Another Band-aid, instead of replacing the wood, aka; proper repair, in My book...
 

ezmobee

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Re: got git-rot?

For a boat that is in good condition other than the transom (that you don't want to be tearing apart) I think SeaCast or Nidabond pourable transoms are a great solution.
 

thunderbug

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Re: got git-rot?

OK, one for and one against. Near as I can tell, the boat is solid; I've pulled hatches/deck covers and hull and stringers seem good. The inside of the transom is cracked around upper bolt holes and rather than repair it, somebody cut a 2x8 to fit the splash well and bolted thru that. Yeah, we got some bright ones 'round here. I just bought this boat last week (w/o a motor), so I was aware of the damage going in; won't know just how bad 'til I get into it. When I dig out the bad wood, I guess I should still put glycol on what remains (if any) to kill any rot I may have missed. Then from what I've read, mix and pour new transom. Sounds easy enough...
 

ezmobee

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Re: got git-rot?

Get all the wood out. Believe it or not, the preferred tool is an electric chainsaw. It removes the wood but doesn't mess with the fiberglass (or at least you can hear it real obviously when you hit it and can back off).
 

Coho Ghost

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Re: got git-rot?

Thunder,

Like EZ says "GET ALL THE WOOD OUT". The pourable transom products work best with a totally clean transom core area. I've used NIDA bond and it is great stuff and a lot cheaper than Seacast. The wood is not as hard to get out as you might think. The electric chain saw, and I made up a long extension spade bit for my DeWalt to get down to the wood the saw can't quite reach. NIDA has great tech support, Goggle their web site and call and talk to them.

Regards,
Coho Ghost
 

thunderbug

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Re: got git-rot?

Googled Nidabond, pretty informative site. Hope to start scoopin' wood this w/e. Next question, is there any reason not to put a piece of wood, cut to whatever width I can fit, into the transom and then pour around it? Wouldn't this help strenghthen the transom? Also, I have a budget and this might save on a couple gallons resin...
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: got git-rot?

Hmm.. I dont know how much luck you would be to pour Around a wood insert. Mebbe dry fit your wood..remove..pour some nidabond..then slip your wood in raising the level ? .. Just thinking out loud here ..

But also thinking that using nidabond would make a perm trans .. would that be worth the cost compaired to possible wood rotting again ?? hmm ..

YD.
 

ezmobee

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Re: got git-rot?

Googled Nidabond, pretty informative site. Hope to start scoopin' wood this w/e. Next question, is there any reason not to put a piece of wood, cut to whatever width I can fit, into the transom and then pour around it? Wouldn't this help strenghthen the transom? Also, I have a budget and this might save on a couple gallons resin...

Do not do this. Wood would again be weak link and would be totally pointless.
 

thunderbug

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Re: got git-rot?

Got my chainsaw and shop vac ready, tonite's the night. Was in the 100's last w/e, only 90's this...much more tolerable:). In planning this project, I'm trying to figure how to pour transom so it fills the outsides, which are higher than the mount area. Near as I can tell, I do this in 2 pours, coming from inside of the transom with perhaps a funnel thru a 1/2" hole. After the first pour, there really won't be much to fill in, but it is 'bout 6" above mount. Thanx again for all your help and advice.
 

thunderbug

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Re: got git-rot?

Just rerad the "how to" sticky at top of forum page. Great info in "seacast review". Don't know why I never looked here before. All my questions have been answered...for now.
 

thunderbug

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Re: got git-rot?

Just an update, pulled the top cap off transom, and made short work of some very rotted wood with a 14" electric chain saw. THANKS TO ALL THAT ADVISED AGAINST THE GIT-ROT FIX! While it may have been good for a very small application, this was not it. Have now gone 'bout as far as I can with the small saw, need to cut a little more glass to get into the risers better. Then it's drill, scrape, and vac. Found drill bit extensions @ Lowe's that I can daisy chain together and reach bottom of transom. Hope to have all wood out by next w/e, little bit every day...
 

ondarvr

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Re: got git-rot?

Epoxies are very high viscosity products, a big issue with them is reducing the viscosity to where they are even easy to laminate with, let alone to the point where they will soak into wood like water. Remember, these companies don't make epoxies, they buy it from others either pre blended to their spec, or they blend in the others ingredients themselves. I doubt whether these somewhat backyard formulators have found the secret of thinning and not losing physical properties (including water resistance) that has eluded the very large companies that actually formulate, make and supply these products.

Their goal is to sell product, if you believe the claims they make that appear to defy the chemistry of the product, then go for it.
 

Tahorover

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Re: got git-rot?

Epoxies are very high viscosity products, a big issue with them is reducing the viscosity to where they are even easy to laminate with, let alone to the point where they will soak into wood like water. Remember, these companies don't make epoxies, they buy it from others either pre blended to their spec, or they blend in the others ingredients themselves. I doubt whether these somewhat backyard formulators have found the secret of thinning and not losing physical properties (including water resistance) that has eluded the very large companies that actually formulate, make and supply these products.

Their goal is to sell product, if you believe the claims they make that appear to defy the chemistry of the product, then go for it.

Wholey crap have any facts to back up your assumptions ? Smiths CPES has been used in the wooden boat circles for decades. They have a sterling reputation in the woody world.
Do you have a degree in chemistry or composites to back up your statement that all epoxies are of high viscosity and a water thin one could not be compounded from the start?
 

ondarvr

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Re: got git-rot?

I like this part of the link.

"It is clear that if a restored piece of wood is
a free-standing element painted for general weather
protection and it serves no structural purpose
whatsoever, then this impregnating product and its
technology is perfectly adequate."
 
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