GOT to be a newbie question....

[orlandoclippertim]

I couldt find this in the secret files.
Got all my ignition stuff on new. (rde-17) Trying to get the points set a .020.
The base unit twists with the hold down screw and opens up the gap----
Tried holding it back with the cam screw-- doesn't quite work---
screw driver between the plate and the point base--- works somewhat---
The sealoc manual mentions having a wavy washer under the hold down screw--- I tried a wiz type lock washer---
I cant see how a wavy washer will help this problem any---
I was able to get both points between about .023 and .028..... not happy with that....
I wouldn't care so much about the plug gap but I suspect this is fairly sensitive ….

Yall MUST have a secret trick here

Can someone give me a hint ?

Tim

 

[gm280]

Post up a few pictures showing what you are working with. Lots of time that helps explain the issue better and gets better suggestions and ideas. JMHO

 

[F_R]

The "wavy washer" is some sort of brass or bronze material, acting as a bearing and allowing some slip under the hold-down screw as you tighten it. A lock washer is having just the opposite effect. There must be half a million of the correct washers in people's junk...er.. goodies boxes.

BTW, seldom published is the fact that with the correct washer under the hold-down screw, you don't have to loosen the screw to adjust the points gap. Just turn the eccentric screw and the base will slide under the washer. Easy.

 

[racerone]

Correct.-----The hold down screw is to be tight when using the cam screw.------And if the cam screw is TOO TIGHT , you need to back it off one full turn .----Then it will be easy to get the 0.020" gap for the points.----The 0.020" gap is important to get strong spark.----Oops I used the word " easy " again.

 

[Joe Reeves]

As above... the wave washer is a "Must Have" item.... A lock washer is taboo, forbidden, a no no, phbbtttt!!

The retaining screw is to be tight... BUT... not tightened via your largest screwdriver by brute force!

With the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the movable point arm, adjusting the points so that a .020 gauge will slide through BUT a .022 gauge "will" have the timing set within factory specifications.

 

[racerone]

If you want to learn and be a perfectionist you can use timing marks on the flywheel and magneto plate to set the points.----Points opening at the correct time are crucial to getting the strongest / bestest spark.

 

[orlandoclippertim]

And if the cam screw is TOO TIGHT , you need to back it off one full turn . (?) You don't tighten this screw - right ?

It appears that the "cam screw" can not be tightened down against the base plate like the hold-down screw. It has to be able to move through a certain angular rotation to be able to move the point base.

So the concept I am getting is--- the wavy washer applies some downward force on the point base though the it is not bottomed out tight. This downward force keeps the point base parallel and in firm contact with the base plate. It also makes some resistance to rotational movement of the point base so that when you turn the cam screw-- the base does not want to spring back and change the gap. Though -- at some point once the gap is correct-- you would have to completely snug
(hand tight) the hold down screw so the gap cant change under vibration. I am suspecting that when you are "setting" the points-- the firmer the wavy washer can be the less opportunity you give the point base to rotate-- upon tightening the hold down screw.

I will visit mr. hardware store and get some #10 and #8 wavy washers. I don't think I have any laying about.

I will align the key with the point rub block.... that's good to know exactly where the high point is--- I was just watching the points..... which is pretty crude. The book didn't mention that !

Thanks for the help there.....
Tim​

 

[orlandoclippertim]

OK---- took the Dremel and flattened/evened out the high edges on the core--- clearing the flywheel ok now.
Tried to re-set the point again--- got one about 20 and the other about 16-28.

Tried pulling the rope really slowly - slower than you would if you wanted to start it---- got a good spark on both plugs.
So that gives me the idea that the ign. is ok now.

However--- I noticed this. When I re-did the points....I lightly tightened the hold down screw--- then I turned the cam screw
until I got the min. point gap. One side went down to like .010 gap but the other would only go to about 26. appears that the
point base is not made accurate. (more Chinese joy I suppose....)

My question--- are these points common to automotive applications ? --- that I might find another manufacturer for the
same basic unit ????? If I was t bend the point base to make it closer -- it would tip it sideways and the contacts would no
longer be parallel. So bending doesn't seem like a solution.

Any thoughts on better quality points ?
Tim

 

[racerone]

The hold down screw is tightened !-------Then set the point gap with the cam screw.-------Now you are done with setting the points.-----Factory parts are best.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Tim... Frankly I find it impossible for anyone to have such a problem with the minor task of simply setting the points. Something is being left unsaid, the point retaining screws are the wrong length, the points are the wrong type, something!

I can think of nothing more to advise and am backing out of this thread... and advise you that, unless you suddenly discover the cause of the problem... to take the engine to a qualified mechanic to do your point setting project. Wish you luck.

 

[Crosbyman]

some points have short rub arms some longer to reach the cam lobe do you have the proper point type for your engine ????

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be