Gotta run new brakes lines - suggestions?

[Blueghost924]

I bought my 26 foot boat on a Load Master dual axle trailer with the complete intention of replacing anything that needed to be replaced (it's a 1989). It came with a Dico / Titan Model 10 disc hydraulic brake system with flex brake hose. I rebuilt and replaced the main parts of the hydraulic actuator and replaced the rust bucket o disc brakes with new Kodiak disc brakes (love them Kodiacs). I decided to try to use the ol flex brake line.

Dumb of me. Well, after many attempts to fill and bleed the brake lines with NO success at drawing a vacuum at either side of the wheel, I decided to disconnect the old brake line at the new reverse solenoid. I installed a 10 foot spare (but new) run of hard metal brake line in the reverse solenoid, and tried to draw a vacuum on the end of that brake line with my vacuum pump. Wella - sucked it through beautifully (no - I didn't let the master cylinder level drop down too far lol).

I'm going to replace the old cruddy flex brake hose with new. Suggestions? I'm thinking about running hard metal - I did that with my old 21 foot boat trailer (with all new parts) and it bled perfect. Also, do you think it would be find to run automotive stainless steel metal brake line?

 

[alldodge]

Break line is break line, marine or auto, there are no differences. Go to a local auto store and find flex or hard lines you need

 

[Scott Danforth]

most trailer stores will have trailer specific hoses in stock. many napa stores do as well

I boat in brine, so I replaced all my hard lines with copper nickel brake line since the steel lines only last about 2 years. you buy it in a 25' roll and flare your own ends.

 

[Jcris]

I have been down a similar road on my trailer. New disc brakes, flex lines, hard lines, wiring/lights, actuator and winch post. Flaring can be problematic. If you have a quality flaring tool it's a piece of cake. If you're relegated to renting then you may find achieving a flare that will hold pressure difficult. Mild steel is more forgiving to work with. Stainless not so much. A quality tool is in my view essential with SS. These are the only brake line materials I've worked with. There are others that claim ease of flaring and may well be worth checking out.. I agree flex lines can be had in many different configurations and are available at many automotive parts stores, SS flex lines are also available but they can be pricey, especially when you get the right ends crimped to them. Just my experience here

 

[BRICH1260]

I'd just re use rubber. Simpler and cheaper to install. Most trailer supply vendors offer pre cut pieces or entire kits.

 

[Jcris]

You get this sorted yet?

 

[Lou C]

If that line is going to the caliper you must use a flex line. The caliper has to move slightly to apply and release the brakes. A hard line will not allow it to move. You can use hard lines on a drum brake system because it does not work the same way. However, I have flex lines on my drum brake system because it makes replacing the wheel cylinders much easier than fighting with the metal brake line.

I use a one man brake bleeder (Lisle) and I have never had any trouble bleeding my drum brakes after changing cylinders.

 

[Lou C]

No Title

Like this:

I have a Tie Down 66 and its very easy to pump it with a screwdriver to bleed. Just keep the bleeder higher than the level of the brakes, or master cyl to get all the air bubbles out.

 

[72fj40]

most trailer stores will have trailer specific hoses in stock. many napa stores do as well

I boat in brine, so I replaced all my hard lines with copper nickel brake line since the steel lines only last about 2 years. you buy it in a 25' roll and flare your own ends.

X2, Ni-cop is easy to bend and double flare and does not corrode. Flex line to the calipers.

 

[Jcris]

The trap for me was I got this kit with SS lines so I elected to modify what I had as well as add what was necessary. The Ni-Cop material does look excellent though. Looking back I should have gone with the Ni-Cop

 

[Blueghost924]

Hi, I actually ended up buying a brake line kit from the local trailer supply store that ended up being only a few dollars more than buying the parts individually. Also, they recommended running hard line up to the disc calipers, but run flex line the last 12-18" onto the caliper. I did that.

 

[dingbat]

Using copper nickel brakes line to connect a an aluminum master cylinder housing to cast steel brake caliper, fastened to the frame of a galvanized (zinc) trailer, submerged in saltwater.....

No thanks.... I'll stick with my SS brake lines.