Re: Greasing Wheels?
I borrowed this from somewhere on the web.<br /><br />These instructions apply to non-brake axles. I have not done any surge brake axles yet therefore I am not sure if brakes need adjusting to remove hub/drum or not, or how to adjust brakes. Any input appreciated. <br />Tools Needed: <br />Ballpeen Hammer <br />Channel Lock Pliers <br />Side Cutters or Needle Nose Pliers <br />Regular Screwdriver <br />Lug Wrench <br />Jack <br />Brass Punch(only if replacing bearing races) <br /><br /><br />Optional Tools But not Nessecary: These tools can be purchased or rented ot most auto parts stores <br />Seal puller <br />Seal and Bearing Race Installer <br />Wheel Bearing Packing Tool <br />Grease Gun <br /><br /><br />Supplies: <br />Wheel Bearing Grease (I prefer Kendall Super Blue) <br />New seals <br />Bearings and Races ( if need replacing) <br />Cotter Pins <br />Cardboard(I use to put all the pieces on and keep clean) <br />Parts Wash( I use gasoline or mineral spirits) <br />Rags <br /><br /><br />I prefer to do one side at a time. I also prefer to hook the trailer up to the truck so that it cant roll anywhere. This looks like a lot but it isnt I have tried to eplain as much as possible. <br />Block opposite wheel front and back to keep from rolling if not hooked up to truck also block jack wheel <br />Loosen lug nuts. <br />Jack up , When jacking put jack under where the axle attaches to the spring DO NOT EVER JACK UP INTHE MIDDLE OF THE AXLE this will cause the axle to bend ( trust me I have done it) <br />Place jack stands or blocks under trailer frame on either side of the wheel (this is for safety in case the jack fails. <br />Remove wheel and tire. <br />Remove dust cap (or bearing buddy if you have one) use channel lock pliers or hammer and screwdriver. <br />Remove cotter pin. <br />Remove big nut. <br />Remove washer. <br />Remove hub assembly; Outer bearing will fall out. <br />Wipe old grease from axle shaft. <br />Take hub assembly to workbench or table(but not kitchen table again trust me). <br />Remove rear seal using seal puller (works best) or screw driver and pliers. <br />Remove inner bearing , it will fall out. <br />Clean bearings in parts wash. DO NOT spin with an air gun you can blow them dry though. <br />Inspect bearings for ; nicks, gouges, rust, pits, lines, also spin by hand if they do not spin freely replace, If in doubt replace them. <br />Clean all old grease from inside of hub. <br />If wheel bearings need replaced you will have to replace races if not replacing bearings and races goto step 21. <br />Remove old races from hub using hammer and punch be carefull not to mark the inside surface of the hub. <br />Install new races using hammer and brass punch tap down evenly till seated I prefer to use the bearing race and seal tool if makes it so much easier. <br />Repack bearings using the bearing packer (I dont) or by hand the old fashion way by putting some grease in the palm of your hand and "cutting" the bearing into it to force grease betweem the inner race and the cage, work from the big side to the little side till grease comes out the top. I do both bearings at once so I only have to clean hands once . <br />Put some grease into the hub cavity , not a lot about a golf ball size or so. <br />Put inner bearing into hub. <br />Install new seal use hammer and tap it in evenly the whole way around , or use seal installer tool(makes it a lot easier) <br />Place hub assembly on clean axle. <br />Install outer bearing. <br />Install washer putting tab in grove if there is one. <br />Install Big nut tighten as tight as you can , then back off a 1/4 turn this will set preload on bearing , hub should spin freely, but not have any play, if it has play tighten up just enough to remove play <br />Install new cotter pin , you may need to tighten nut a little to get the slots to line up. <br />Place a little grease inside dust cover ( or bearing buddy) and reinstall tap it on with a hammer. <br />Reinstall wheel and tire. <br />Remove safety stands and lower jack. <br />Tighten lugnuts in a criss cross patern. <br />Repeat on other side. <br />Take for test ride . Stop after a few miles and feel to see if bearings are hot or cool (if cool then congratulations)(if hot thats not good either too tight or not enough grease I have never had them get hot though EXCEPTION Trailers with brakes the hub itself will become warm after a lot of stopping so it may be warm. <br />After a few trips jack up and see if there is any play in the wheel if there is remove cap and tighten nut just till play is gone. <br />Thats it for 2 years unless you really travel. <br /><br /><br />SOME TIPS ON WHEEL BEARINGS <br />If you see grease on the inside of the wheel that usually means that the axle seal is bad. <br />It is a good idea to feel your hubs when you stop for fuel or get to lake or get home to make sure they are not getting hot( I do this all the time). <br />If its a long way to the lake it is a good idea to let the bearings cool for a while before submerging (Usually while rigging and preparing to launch is good) <br />Repack every 2 years (every year under severe use) and you shouldn't have any problems. <br />I carry a spare set of bearings in all of my trailers I have them packed with grease and in a ziplock bag. I have never had to use but they are there just incase( I some times go 500-600 miles from home) <br />Disclaimer:<br />I am not a professional mechanic but I do a lot of my own maintenance, I do not guarantee the results.
