GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

[six50joe]

I'm in the process of diagnosing the fuel gauge on my 1998 GS201, which stopped working near the end of last season. Haven't yet had a chance to test resistance of the sender on the wires connected to the gauge itself, will do so when I next have go to the boat's location.

But if the problem isn't there, and I need to investigate the sender itself at the gas tank, I can't figure out how to access it. The hatch that gives access to the battery is only large enough for a very small child to fit through; I almost dislocated my shoulder trying to fit through it once, and almost got stuck in it. Cutting a hatch in the floor wouldn't do any good because the tank is located in the transom area, almost directly beneath the back seat cushion and ski pole. I can't figure out how anyone services this boat, including the bilge pump if I needed to replace it.

Anyone have suggestions?

Thanks much in advance,
Joe

 

[Ernest T]

Re: GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

I'm feeling your pain. I need to get to my bilge pump, and short of training a small monkey to do the repair, I see no way to do it.

At least on my boat I can get to the top of the gas tank through a small access port above it, but I don't know if its big enough to actually be able to do anything.

If you figure out a way to fix yours, please post back and let the rest of us in on the secret.

Good Luck!

 

[NelsonQ]

Re: GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

Joe, if you don't have an access port above it as Ernest T mentioned, you may need to cut one and purchase a molded access port and ring to cover it up afterwards. I had a GS170 (2001) which had the same access issue and no easy way to get to the sending unit. Mine wasn't accurate and I wanted to replace it as it was always 1/4 tank off so E really meant 1/4 tank remaining and time for a fill.

Fortunately for me, my fuel gauge stopped working 2 months after I sold it so I didn't have to make this repair however it seems Hurricane has now accounted for these repairs (as previously my suggestion or lifting the cap off the boat hull is the only other access method available)

If you decide to go that route, please let us know what you've done and how you've done it and perhaps take some pics as it would help future Hurricane owners in a similar situation.

 

[six50joe]

Re: GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

Ok, I had a chance to test the fuel gauge yesterday by jumping red wire connection with the ground (black). The gauge jumped to full, which tells me- if I understand correctly- that the gauge itself is fine. This was the easier thing to check, so next it looks like I have no option but to check the sender, and its connections. My plan is to use a 6" hole saw to make a pie plate opening that will allow me to access the sender. I'm planning to cut it through the back of the compartment under the seat just in front of the ski pole. This is still not ideal, as access will only be one handed, with a limited view. I won't be able to do this until I return to the boat's location, some time over the next several weeks. I'll update when I have more progress.

For now, here's a pic of the top of the fuel tank and sender. Above it is the area where I plan to cut the hole.

 

[six50joe]

Re: GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

Ok, turns out of all the dumb things the lead for the fuel gauge wasn't connected to the battery terminal; it must have came off at some point and I hadn't noticed. Ater connecting it, the gauge worked- almost. The needle jumped to about the level in the tank, but wouldn't stay steady. It was agitated, as if there was a loose or dirty connection. I loosened the instrument panel, removed all the connections to the fuel gauge, cleaned them and reconnected them. After that, oddly enough the needle went straight to full and stayed there when the key is in and turned to standby. That would indicate a problem with the sender, which didn't seem to be the case before I cleaned the connections. I tried pushing the connectors around a little bit with a screw driver to see if it made a difference, then oops- for an instant, I shorted two of the connections and saw a little spark. After that, the ignition system (starter, trim, check lights, check beep) no longer worked. I checked the breakers under the dashboard (at least that's what I think they are), nothing tripped. I tried to find a fuse somewhere- near the battery, inline near the ignition switch, couldn't find one. Not sure where to check next.

Any ideas?

 

[six50joe]

Re: GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

Update: the short I had caused in my last post did result in the inline starter fuse being blown.
I ordered a new sending unit, a generic one that according to a Hurricane vendor I spoke to would work as a replacement. I installed it over the weekend. It was a bear to put it in. I decided to wriggle my way in through the hatch instead of cutting an access hole. I had to replace one of the electrical connectors because the old one corroded on and I stripped the screw head trying to get it out. After all that, problem still not fixed. Now the needle goes straight to full when I turn the key on, no matter the sender position. The needle goes a fraction higher when the sender is at the top. Any ideas on what the problem could be? If it were the gauge it the needle wouldn't move at all, correct?

 

[onetom]

Re: GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

If it were the gauge it the needle wouldn't move at all, correct?

Thank you for posting details and description of the issues.


So what ever happened, did the new sending unit resolve it? I will be undertaking the same issue with my boat in the next few days.

Thanks

Tom

 

[eligonzalez2010]

Re: GS201: How to get access to gas tank & electrical?

six50joe

You tested the actual gauge correctly but the problem is that the sending unit should not be connected to the hot side of the battery. None of my past ones have. You should have one lead that goes to a ground behind the dash (black) and the other goes to the "S" terminal of the gauge. Sometimes this wire is Pink. They are non-polarity connections, meaning that you can connect either wire to either terminal on the sending unit. Just make sure that one goes to ground and the other goes to the "S" terminal on the gauge.

The gauge measures resistance through the sending unit in order to tell you how much fuel you have. That is why when you ground the "S" terminal the needle jump to full. No one should have possible sparks near the fuel tank. Sparks can ignite fumes and then BOOM. Not good at all.

After shorting things out it seems you might have bigger troubles now. Let me know what happens when you recheck your connections.

Hope this helps.