Hard Cold Start

[TearlessTom]

I know who doesn't have this issue. I have a Old Evinrude 150 I think 1997 model. I bought it last year and last fall I went through and did all the maintenance I could think of. I replaced the water pump, flushed out the lower unit, rebuilt the carbs, replaced all lines gas and oil. New plugs new thermostats.
Well it is still hard to cold start. I came across this statement on this site while researching the issue. Can someone tell me what it means or how to do this. I was not aware of this option. Engine has the push key to prime system.

"single-lever control and don't have a fast-idle lever, pull the throttle out to lock the engine in neutral and push the throttle forward."​

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome to the forum.

It's the same as pressing the gas pedal in your car in neutral. Pulling out the lever puts the control in throttle only mode so the lever can be pushed forward to give the motor gas without shifting.

 

[GA_Boater]

Also push and hold the key in while cranking.

 

[racerone]

Push the key in and hold it in while cranking it over.-----Also read about the " quickstart " feature on this motor.-----Post picture of your control box

 

[TearlessTom]

Thanks everyone I went out and looked at it and figured it out. It always seemed odd to me why it didn't have that feature like the old two control units did. Now I find out it does. My other boat was a Johnson and it had the handle that you lifted to start. I liked it better worked well. Easy to start.

 

[Chris1956]

I would expect your motor to have the "Quickstart" feature. Quickstart will automatically advance the throttle when the motor is cold. When cold starting, the motor should run at about 1200 RPM until she warms up, and then drop down to 600RPM idle speed or so.

I do not know if you have the Quickstart feature on your motor, however, I think it likely as my '98 Johnson 150HPV6 has it. Since Quickstart shares a sensor with overheat, I think it prudent to find out if you have the feature, and why it doesn't work.

 

[TearlessTom]

Did a little more research pulled serial # off engine and it turns out it is a 1985 model.

Will it have the QUICKSTART? If so could someone send me a Pic on the engine.

Or how to find it do I can temporarily disconnect. I was wanting to check the timing via the Joe Reeves method.

Im glad you mentioned that the QUICK START SHARES A SENSOR WITH THE OVERHEAT...I have had the alarm go off a few times. The motor was never overheating. I replaced the water pump just to be safe, I have always had a good pee stream, and I checked the temp with a digital laser thermometer. I don't recall the exact temps but both banks were just a few degrees from each other and I think around 140 F.

 

[racerone]

????----No " quickstart " on 1985 models.---That feature came out in the 1990's models.------Post the compression numbers on your engine !

 

[TearlessTom]

All cylinders are running 85-90 lbs dry. If I put a little oil in cylinder it run 100lbs.. I know this seem to be low as my Johnson 120Hp which was a 1997 model ran about 125+ on all four.

But from what I've read on a 1985 V6 90 is about average. They supposedly had "low compression heads".

As I recall 1985 was in the 1st Gas Crunch era and all gasoline powered motors were scaled back and ran like crap. I had a Mercury Capri that I got 40 mpg on highway at 55mph but it didn't have enough torque to pull a very small hill without downshifting. Pinged constantly.

I am in process of de-carbing now and will set timing with the Joe Reeves method when wife gets home to turn the key for me. I'm thinking the timing may be off as it cranked fairly easily last year. I wish I had my 120 Johnson back,

QUESTION??????????????

Can anyone tell me the correct timing for this motor. It had a sticker on it that said it was tuned for 87 octane 10% alcohol fuel. I run 89 octane 0 alcohol gas in it. There is no info for the timing and the manual says see note and the note says see sticker which isn't there any more. ????????????

There is a white paint mark at 30* on the flywheel. I am thinking that is it. As the newer and later models are mostly 28* or 32*. Spliting the difference seems reasonable to me then tune by ear the old fasion way as needed.

QUESTION???????

My top carburetor starboard side #1 Cylinder is spitting fuel. I rebuilt last fall and have ordered another rebuild kit should be here tomorrow I hope. Any idea as to why only that one is spitting and what is the cause . I don't want to over look something when I tear it down again,