Hard Start after Warm

Chris611

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 10, 2004
Messages
100
I have a '96 Conquest with a 5.7L 2bbl Mercruiser. This is my first boat. I took it in and had a complete tune up done. When the engine is warm and then it sits for awhile (10-30min) it is very hard to start. The only thing I have found is the put the throttle all the way forward and then it takes 5 seconds or so of cranking for the engine to fire. The boat mechanic who did the tune up says it could be the fuel vaporizing in the fuel line. He said since I put 87 octane with 10% ethenol it will make the problem worse. Lower vaporizing point.? Since I have 40+ gallons of this gas in the boat, is there any additive that I can add to help the problem? Or any thing else to do to help? <br /><br />Thanks<br />Chris
 

Northern Eclipse

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
665
Re: Hard Start after Warm

How was the hot start before tune-up.. If it was good then I suggest next time out, run boat up to temp shut down, remove flame arrester and see if any fuel is leaking down into the carb it could be flooding after shutdown, the mercarb is good for doing that, if so then its possible needle valve is not seating correctly or float level is to high, if there is no sign of leakdown then have some pump throttle and be sure there is a spray of fuel entering carb. Incorrect timing will also cause hard starting also.
 

BinLurkin

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2004
Messages
192
Re: Hard Start after Warm

I don't think ethanol has anything to do with it. Hard starting when hot is almost always due to the gas in the fuel line overheating when you shut down. It puts to much pressure on the needle & seat in the carb & the gas bleeds by & it & floods out so you can't start for a half hour or so. That's why it starts fine when cold. If you have a steel gas line leading into the carb & routed right up against the block, get rid of it & put in rubber gas hose & keep it away from the block, or heat. Sometimes a fuel pressure regulator is in order too. Set it as low as it will run proplerly at high speed high fuel consumption situations. Usually for my v-8's it's 'bout 5 pounds. If your not carbureated, forget what I just said, I don't know nothin' about the fuel injected ones.
 

Chris611

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 10, 2004
Messages
100
Re: Hard Start after Warm

Thanks for the replies. It does have the steel fuel lines that run beside the block and around the coolant hoses. I will try and remove them and put on rubber ones. Anyone happen to know off hand what size fittings I would need to go from the fuel pump to the carb? Last night I put the muffs on it and ran it in the drive. I got it warm enought so it doesn't want to start. I tried looking in the carb and didn't see any fuel dripping or leaking, but I will try and look when I am on the river and running hard.<br /><br />Thanks<br />Chris
 

toms4w

Cadet
Joined
Jul 6, 2005
Messages
10
Re: Hard Start after Warm

Since my thermostat was replaced on my 95 OMC 3.0L I now have a hard time starting when the engine is warm and sits for 20-30 min. The old t'stat must have been frozen open as it ran cold and didn't produce this hot start problem, now that it's running hotter this problem developed (also started dieseling but turning down the idle fixed that). I have seen on other forums that running the engine at idle for a couple minutes before shut down, opening the dog house cover, and running the blower can help keep it cool and prevent this. Kind of a hassle though.
 

Richard Petersen

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
778
Re: Hard Start after Warm

A hot stop and then more than 10 minutes of heat being transferred to the carburator and the fuel lines will cause a 5 to 8 seconds of cranking to fill the lines and carb. float fuel bowl. It should be just like starting the engine after a 3 week shutdown period. On a hot, +90 degree day this is almost the normal routine for big engines in small engine rooms. The hot intake manifold BOILS off any fuel that drips out of the carb. with the engine stopped. 1 to 2 minutes of idle and then a shut down should prove the gas Boil Out theory.Post back if it does the job. A lot of other people have this problem.
 

floatit

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
35
Re: Hard Start after Warm

i have the same problem when running the boat when it is really hot out. Try running the blower for awhile after you shut down the motor.<br /><br />Some motors have a small pressure valve similar to bicycle tire valve on it. you can depress this valve to relieve the pressure and then the motor should start, Sometimes.<br /><br />best thing is to just run the blower after you shut the motor down and open the engine compartment to ventilate the area. Some time you can pour some of water on the fuel lines to cool them down also.
 

Chris611

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 10, 2004
Messages
100
Re: Hard Start after Warm

Hey, I see this thread I started is back. Don't know if it will help you, but what I found my problem to be was the well plugs on the carburator were leaking. It was a 2 bbl Merc carb. I don't fully understand what well plugs are, but I gather they are access holes so that the internal passages can be machined in the carb. Then the holes are sealed up with plugs. In my case the plugs began to leak and the fuel would drain into the intake. If it sat long enough, the fuel would evaporate and it would start. This is why it started cold. When warm, the A/F mix was too rich and essentially it was flooded. I replaced the 2 bbl with another carb (4 bbl) and problem has been solved. Good luck finding the problem.<br /><br />Happy boating<br />Chris
 

Olds Eddie

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
194
Re: Hard Start after Warm

Cp611 is correct in that these well plugs are to alow some passages to be machined during manufacturing. I noticed where BinLurkin suggested you get rid of the metal fuel lines. Bad idea! The reason the lines are metal is that rubber lines will deterate or wear holes and leak, spraying gas everywhere. Never use rubber lines on pressure side of fuel system. A metal line will show signs of deterioration on the outside before they become a problem. Rubber usually deteriorates on the inside first.<br />If this problem started after the tune-up I would suspect the timming is too advanced.
 

Mahoney

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Messages
537
Re: Hard Start after Warm

Do you run your blower after shut down and warm up? I have been doing this, and it seemed to help dramatically when starting back up after running warm. Not so much that you are cooling down significantly but it should help circulate the air and transfer the heat out and not directly to the fuel lines and throttlebody.<br /><br />I have steel fuel lines running right by the exaust and intake manifolds on the way to the carb, and my hot starts requir about half a crank. No throttle or anything.
 

p3tert

Cadet
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
6
Re: Hard Start after Warm

I've been searching the net to find a problem similar to the one i'm currently experiencing, and this thread looks about the closest! I can see a lot of helpful comments here, but CP611 never actually got his carb fixed, he replaced it, and well, i'm hoping to fix mine without replacing it..! Can anyone give any tips?<br /><br />My problem relates to an old Mercruiser GM 3.0L 181 C.I.D. engine, with a Mercarb 2 Barrel Carburetor. I was suffering from real bogging problems accelerating from idle, so I bought a service kit, and attempted a do-it-yourself carb service. The bogging problem was easy to fix - the Accelerator Pump Shaft & Lever assembly had loosened off the Accelerator pump, causing a large amount of slack. This is fixed, and my 'hole shot' is now beautifully smooth, with no bogging & no hesitation. The engine is running smoothly, ticking over evenly, with no evidence that i've screwed up anything ;-)<br /><br />...However, I seem to have created a new problem! As people have described above, the problem occurs after stopping the engine when warm, then attempting to restart after waiting about 5-10 minutes (restarting immediately after stopping is fine).<br />When this problem occurs, the engine is comlpetely flooded, so much so that rather than coughing & spluttering (how I remember flooded engines sounding) it just turns over fast & smooth with no hint of any combustion at all. I don't know exaclty how long it takes to clear, but it's more than an hour. Coming back to the boat the next morning, it starts ' on the key' as if there were no problems at all..<br /><br />When I look down the barrels after turning off the engine from warm, I can see a steady leak of fuel dripping (at a rate of about one drip per second) from each branch of the venturi cluster at the end of the 'V' that is directly over each barrel of the carb. I can also see big puddles forming on the back of the throttle valves, and a fair amount of fuel around the flat surfaces of the body at the tops of the barrels. I can't see exactly where the fuel is coming from, but i'm fairly sure it's coming through the venturi cluster brass tubes, rather than leaking from the venturi cluster gasket.<br /><br />I've had this thing apart again a couple of times, but everything seems just fine, and i'm out of ideas! It would be great if I could get some pointers...<br /><br />I've got some specific questions also, based on other peoples advice in this thread:<br /><br />Q1: Where are the well plugs? Can I spot if they are leaking? <br /><br />Q2: I don't know enough about the carb to understand exactly how the fuel gets from the float bowl through to the venturi. I'm going to check (again) as follows:<br />1) Main metering Jets & Gaskets<br />2) Power valve assembly and gaskets<br />3) Venturi cluster main gasket & center screw fiber washer<br />But can anyone tell me if i've missed anywhere that might be repsponsible for fuel leaking through into the venturi cluster?<br /><br />Any Ideas or pointers VERY greatfully received! Oh yeah, and this is my first post here, so hi everyone!! I promise to come back and let you know what the final solution was, and i'm hoping it won't be "Buy a new carb!"<br /><br />BTW while I was searching, I found a full MerCarb service manual PDF online at http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/13/13B5R2.PDF <br />responses quoting page numbers and diagram references would be even more helpful (if i'm not being TOO cheeky!)
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Hard Start after Warm

p3ter<br /><br />It's great to locate other posts for info, but start your own thread with the question. Most people never read the replies anyway, just the original post.
 
Top