Hard start weak out of the hole- Evinrude e120tlerc

jimbobcooter

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Ok so I am experiencing some trouble getting my 94 Evinrude e120tlerc started and it seems to be weak out of the hole. She has not sat more than 1.5months this winter. The last 2 times I had her out I had to squirt some gas into the carbs to get her to start. Once going she runs fine...no studded...no backfire...no stall...starts fine after sitting (1-2hr lunch and she started 1st try).

Also noticed that she is slow to get out of the hole. Last summer we skied and tubed all day behind her, but from the feel I am not sure she still has it in her.

Details:
'19 Sea Nymph Stringer Sport Deck Boat
12V main system
24V TM system
74lb Minn Kota TM

Work done this winter:
New fuel lines (from tank to bulb to engine)- Evinrude primer bulb; Evinrude fuel filter; All line is USCG Type A1
New water pump/impeller
New 24V TM system (2 new Group 24 batteries)
Mounted a 74lb Minn Kota TM on the bow
Fish finder

My thoughts: I am thinking that either the new fuel lines/ filter/ bulb are not allowing enough fuel to get to the engine or the additional weight in the stern (2 more 12v batteries) is slowing it down. The latter being less likely.

Could the cold water (50 farenheit) cause it to be weak out of the hole?

Only the new fuel system parts have the potential to cause all of what I am experiencing.

Any thoughts are appreciated!
Joe
 

jimbobcooter

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Add. I just checked the spark plugs and 3 were a nice tan color, but the lower starboard plug was completely covered in oil!

Plugs were new last year.
 

racerone

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The lower / black sparkplug should be a huge concern.----What does a compression test show ?---And does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or more on all leads, yes or no ?
 

jimbobcooter

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Compression 120ish on all cylinders. I dont have a spark indicator that tells me the length, but I did confirm spark with a general indicator. I bought a set of new plugs for her. While checking spark she fired right up! Could it be possible that one plug got fouled up from running it on the hose this winter?

Would it bad to run with the new plugs to check performance and after pull plugs to see if the issue continues?

Does not look as bad after sitting out of the cylinder for a while but the one on the left or top had significantly more oil on it when first pulled.
 

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racerone

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A test run on a dynamometer would confirm the condition of the engine.-----Money well spent !
 

jimbobcooter

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It is a '94 an I am just a recreational user. What does a dyno test cost? Not even sure where to find one in Nashville. Is there any signs to look for during/after a lake test? Any hazards? If if fouls the new plugs what could be some causes?
 

jimbobcooter

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ohms in coils checked ok. When I replaced the fuel lines I did not use any gasket sealer....simply 2 hose clamps. Going to add some sealer to all connections today.

As soon as I can get her back on the water I am going to check the temp of the heads. I suspect she might be running cold b/c last time I was out and checked after running a bit they were not even real warm to the touch. If the thermostats were stuck open wouldn't I see black on all of the plugs?

Could it be possible that the one carb is not adjusted properly?
 
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jimbobcooter

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4 new Champ QL78YC plugs...sealed fuel connections and took her to the lake today. I was able to get her started with out squirting fuel into the carbs. Once running she was obviously missing on a cylinder.

I let it fast idol for a min or two and when I went to a normal idol it wanted to die and would if I didn't give it some gas. I did not run it much at all and when I pulled the plugs all were clean with light oil residue except for the lower starboard plug which was pretty much all black.

Since the coils check ok... I am now thinking power pack. When doing the water pump I remember unplugging the main wiring connection (lg red connection on the port side of the motor). When it was plugged back it I think I accidentally had the battery hooked up. Could this have damaged the power pack?

I was reading the manual on how to test the power pack and it recommends a special volt meter. Is it possible to test with a standard volt meter?

If not power pack I am thinking carb cleaning.

Any tips/ advice are greatly appreciated.
 

jimbobcooter

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Starting to wonder if I have completely trashed my engine and no one on here wants to tell me.
 

AlTn

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on the lake < may work on muffs as well >...clip an inductive timing light on each spark plug lead in turn...does the timing flash skip or go dark on any cylinders esp. the one that seems to be the problem child?...you may have to have the motor under load and warm for this to show up as that seems to be the case with electronic gremlins
 

DMangan

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Check the linkage on the bottom carburetor. Work the throttle make sure all the linkage moves in sync.
 

ondarvr

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Testing coils that way frequently doesn't detect a problem, but under load they fail. Switch coils with another cylinder and see if the problem follows that coil.
 

DMangan

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You could just have a defective plug. I've bought sets of plugs brand new and still can get a lemon one
 

DMangan

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Ok just noticed the post dates, 3 years ago really? I'm guessing this was resolved oh 3 years ago?
 

racerone

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Find that shop with the dyno or a test propeller.-Guessing will not get results.
 

jimbobcooter

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Thanks for all the feedback everyone! Some really good suggestions! I only ohm tested the coils and could have definitely switched them to see if the problem followed. The suggestion about carb sync was also a good idea as I could have certainly knocked something out of sync while accessing the shift linkage (4 water pump service). Didn't see any issues with the head gasket (nothing leaking...everything seemed tight).

I decided to take it to the shop before they get to busy and I had to wait a month to get her back. Plus I did not really have the time or $ to be chasing around a potential electrical issue. Really glad I did as they informed me that if it is the power pack that it would still be under warranty (replaced last year). I will be much more at ease knowing that a certified tech tuned it prior to having the family out this summer!

I will post what they find incase it can help others. THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE INPUT!
 
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jimbobcooter

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Talked to the shop today...Spark is good...Compression good...They said that she was missing the entire thermostat and assembly! Apparently everything behind the plate was gone. They explained to me that some people remove the entire assembly so that overheating is not possible (except for a clogged passage). I know that I ran her all last year under temp...thought she was burning an excessive amount of gas, but chalked it up to her being older.

He also said that the choke solenoid??? was also missing. Runs something like $25 for this part.

They are going to de-carb the motor after parts are installed since running cold likely caused excessive carbon build up. They are also going to adjust carbs.

My only questions is why was it missing tight away with brand new plugs? Why was only one cylinder's plug all black? I would expect all plugs to be dark after running for a while cold.

Mechanic is trusted. Anything else yall can thing of?
 
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