Hard to start Volvo….

[Will Withers]

Hi all, First time posting, lots of good info on here and I have all of you to thank for that.

I have a AQ225 with a 280 outdrive. That is relatively new to me. Had it for about 5 months.
My issue is that I have a hard time getting the engine to start. Takes a really long time for me to eventually get the engine to turn over.

The only way I can get the engine to turn over is to give it what I would consider a lot of gas. Basically pump it in full throttle to get it to catch and turn over. This can take 20,30,40 mins. Once the engine is warm it starts quicker but still requires me to give it basically full throttle gas for it to turn over.

My questions is what things should I look at to alleviate the issue. The starter looks relatively new. Something with the carb? Any suggestions welcome?

Thanks, Will

 

[skydiveD30571]

If the battery is charged and starter is strong so that the engine is turning over fine, I would start with the choke on the carb. Make sure it is activating and opening as the engine warms up. What is your starting sequence like, or are you just turning the key and expecting it to fire up?

 

[Will Withers]

Batteries are charged and starter seems strong.

As far as starting sequence, yes basically turning the key. Am I missing something to get the engine warmed prior to trying to start it?

I’ll do some research and take a look at the choke on the card to make sure it functioning right.....

 

[Bondo]

Batteries are charged and starter seems strong.

As far as starting sequence, yes basically turning the key. Am I missing something to get the engine warmed prior to trying to start it?

I’ll do some research and take a look at the choke on the card to make sure it functioning right.....

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... Yer motor is carbed, not Efi like yer car,...

My sequence on my 4.3l carbed motor is,...
Turn the key to On,....
Pump the throttle from idle to Wot 2 or 3 times, then set the throttle to 'bout 5/8s- 3/4s, 'n turn the key to Start,....
Usually in less than 5 seconds, I've let off the key, 'n pulled by the throttle back to 'bout 1000 rpms,....
If not,....
3 more pumps, 'n try again,....

'n that's After I've cracked the hatch, checked all the fluid levels, 'n given the bilge a Sniff test,.....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Bondo is right. Just turning the key does nothing to set the choke or prime the carb. The only thing I would add is to push the button in on the pivot of the handle to disengage shifting and to only allow throttle control

 

[Will Withers]

OK. Thanks guys.
Sounds like the amount of throttle I have to give it to catch and start is not that necessarily that strange.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Cold/hard start.
The fuel might be draining back into the tank. Check the anti-siphon valve at the tank.
The ball in the valve should be spring loaded.
The accelerator pump not pushing fuel. Rebuild the carb.
Engine cold, remove the spark arrestor, have someone move the throttle like your trying to start.
See if there is any fuel squirting into the throat of the carb. Do while it's cold. Post results.
The fuel pump is weak? Possible hole in the diaphragm of the pump.
These AQ 225/260 needs to be started like this: Turn key and pump the throttle while it turning over.
Pumping while it's off only gets you a tired arm. No turn? NO fuel.
Good luck.

 

[skydiveD30571]

I had the same realization a while back, which is why I asked how you usually do it. Check out this thread, specifically post #7.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...lvo-4-3l-gl-a-fuel-pump-problem-when-starting

 

[Will Withers]

Thanks for the help guys.

Jerry, is the anti-siphon value usually at the top to the tank, on the “pick up” line? If so sounds like a good excuse to unscrew the deck and check the tank out, which I have been meaning to do.
When removing the spark arrestor and looking in the carb to see if fuel is being squirted, I have to be turning the key over while moving the throttle for gas to be flowing?
The fuel pump has been replaced and is only a few months old.

Ill post up my results of looking in the carb when throttling. I’m in the middle of replacing my water pump and fly wheel. And rebuilding my u-joint and replacing bellows. if I get this done this weekend I’ll start trouble shooting the staring issues.

Skydive, thanks for the link some very good info in that thread.

 

[Bondo]

Thanks for the help guys.

Jerry, is the anti-siphon value usually at the top to the tank, on the “pick up” line? If so sounds like a good excuse to unscrew the deck and check the tank out, which I have been meaning to do.
When removing the spark arrestor and looking in the carb to see if fuel is being squirted, I have to be turning the key over while moving the throttle for gas to be flowing?
The fuel pump has been replaced and is only a few months old.

Ill post up my results of looking in the carb when throttling. I’m in the middle of replacing my water pump and fly wheel. And rebuilding my u-joint and replacing bellows. if I get this done this weekend I’ll start trouble shooting the staring issues.

Skydive, thanks for the link some very good info in that thread.

Ayuh,..... The anti-siphon valve is usually the hose barb at the tank outlet, 1 in the same fittin',.....

Lookin' down the carb, 'n actuatin' the throttle should cause the accelerator pump to squirt gas into the throat, without bein' runnin' or crankin',...
Just settin', no power, no nothin',....

 

[jeffnick]

I've got a carbed 260A (SBC). On my motor there is no connection between the choke and throttle...you don't give it throttle to set the choke because there's no connection. Likewise, WOT does NOT unload the choke - there's no connection between the choke and throttle. The choke is on manifold heat and is a totally independent entity.

I rebuilt my Q-jet complete with JB Weld on the plugs. My carb still dries out after sitting. My fuel tank level is above the top of the carb so the anti-siphon valve is not a consideration. My starting procedure is to set the throttle to about 1/3 and crank her until the float bowl fills and she lights up...about 30 seconds cold. Pumping doesn't help. Then I bring her back to about 1,000 until she's warm.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Been gone, Yes pump while off.
Jeffnick, Why the JB on the plugs?
The pumping as you turn it over activates the accelerator pump part of the carb.