Heating up your engine bay so it doesn't freeze on i/o? freeze coming tonight

[bumblebeeamigo]

So I have an appointment for my winterization in 2 weeks. I was told thats when most people winterize their boats around here. The weather originally said it wouldn't freeze this weekdn, and next weekend is in the 70s. Now I'm staring at the weather report and they are calling for up to 10 hours of close to 20 degree weather. Based on everything I've read right on this forum, that is a hair too long and a hair too cold. It may be OK, it may not be.

No biggie, I ran to the store and bought an engine block heater to hold 'er over.

seems like my problem is solved until I try to get it to stick to the engine and I realize the block is aluminum. shoot.

It won't stick to the oil pan either. (never knew they had aluminum oil pans?)

Shoot. Now I'm SOL.

I tried to read the winterization stuff and its too confusing. Never heard of fogging motors or stuff like that. I'm trying to watch youtube videos and I just don't get it. Evidently i'm too stupid to make sense of these basic winterization guides.

So I drain the 3 drains I know of- no idea what each one is- one is on what looks like a coolant pipe inside the engine bay, 2 are in the back under the outdrive. 2 of the 3 drained a lot of water out, which should be good. Don't see anywhere to pour in RV antifreeze... anyway the short story is I need to learn to winterize my boat but it seems like its too much to figure out when I have 4 hours to fix it, 2 hours with stores still open. and no boat stores open anymore.

So now I'm thinking either 1. go to the store and buy one of those light bulbs that people hang with their cars (read those work), and a incadescent light bulb and that should produce another heat, or 2. Stick the engine block heater I bought somewhere else, like exhaust manifolds, the top part of the engine, or that spot that 4 coolant pipes go to on top of the engine. None are "ideal", but I figure the block heater fits, sticks, and it should create enough heat in the engine bay to keep it from freezing, right?

Anyway, I've never used a block heater so I don't know if that logic actually works. I just bought it because the forums said they don't produce a spark which is a risk with a light bulb.

Can anyone tell me if its OK to stick the block heater on top of the engine? Should I buy a light bulb or is that not enough? Or did I do enough (draining those 3 points) to reduce any risk tonight?

I know I deserve a lot of comments such as: Why did you wait so long, WHy aren't you smarter, and why didn't you figure this stuff out 10 years ago when you bought your boat. Well, the answer to all of those is: I know, shame me, but also help me get through tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

To start off with breath, bring air in then slowly breath it out

Now, if the temps are only going down to the 20's at night and back up during the day then you should be fine. A 60watt trouble light sitting under the engine (laying in the bilge) will keep things from freezing even if the temps say there a bit longer.

What engine do you have (year or serial number) and type V8, 6 or what ever.

For V motors there is a drain on each side, one on each exhaust manifold, power steering cooler, can be more depending on which motor. Also need to remove and drain lower water circulating hose

 

[emmurphy50]

The old trick is to (making sure no gas fumes are present) is to stick a blow dryer or space heater in the compartment overnight.

 

[Scott Danforth]

As AllDodge said..... Breath in..... Breath out.

If your block is aluminum, can we assume you have a 3.7 liter? If so, your motor is heat exchanger cooled. If you have the 3.7 liter, drain the line from the transom shield to the heat exchanger, and pull one endcap off the heat exchanger.

If your motor is one of the dozen Vazor's that exist, same process.

We can be a bit more specific if we know what you have

 

[airshot]

Grab yourself a couple of the aluminum portable light bulb shields at your local hdwe store and stick them inside the doghouse engine compartment. I use two just in case one bulb goes out. A 75 watt bulb will create enough heat to prevent freeze down to 25 deg without a problem. I do this for the last few weeks of the season while waiting for that last fishing trip of the year. I have an outside light on my barn connected to the same circuit so if the power goes out I know it right away so extra action can be taken. Used this for years without any problems.

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

Thanks for the responses.

Maybe it isn't aluminum. Its a 4.3 liter V6 w/alpha. It looks like that should be cast-iron, so I have no idea why the block heater wouldn't stick to it. I just double checked with a strong smaller magnet, and magnets are NOT sticking to the block- that would tell me its aluminum, but it must be iron.

Based on your feedback, I'll just stick two light bulbs in there, in case one fails.

The one thing frustrating me is that I can look up videos on this motor and they are referring to drain plugs that aren't where they show them. I'm going to make sure next year I buy some ear muffs, and figure this out and do it myself just so I have confidence that I know how.

Still researching, but wanted to post an update since you are all being so helpful. Wish I could find the right manual for this engine. I think I might have found the right manual. It mentions a drain in the block. I got the upper drain. I can't see the block, but feeling around in there I can't find a drain. Hope the light bulbs work! Thanks for your advice!

 

[stonyloam]

it does sound kinda like a 470. In that case the block should be full of antifreeze and does not need to be drained. You do need to drain the seawater out of the heat exchanger. You do this by removing the aftmost plug on the underside of the exchanger. Nothing else need be done to freeze protect. Now we need to know for sure what engine you have. Does it have a radiator cap on the exhaust manifold? Is the reservoir full of automotive antifreeze? You do not have to remove any plugs on the out drive. And if it is a 470 you never ever have to pay anyone to winterize it, you can do it yourself in about 5 minutes.

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

it does sound kinda like a 470. In that case the block should be full of antifreeze and does not need to be drained. You do need to drain the seawater out of the heat exchanger. You do this by removing the aftmost plug on the underside of the exchanger. Nothing else need be done to freeze protect. Now we need to know for sure what engine you have. Does it have a radiator cap on the exhaust manifold? Is the reservoir full of automotive antifreeze? You do not have to remove any plugs on the out drive. And if it is a 470 you never ever have to pay anyone to winterize it, you can do it yourself in about 5 minutes.

I'm 100% sure it doesnt use antifreeze. Its sea water cooled. 4.3 mercruiser 2003 carbeurated, tracker marine boat. Bought new, all original. Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

Since your in Syracuse, NY the weather doesn't get above 42 for the next couple days you would need to winterize or put a light bulb in there. One 60 watt light bulb can keep a small engine compartment plenty warm in to the teens

http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Syracuse,+NY

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

What engine do you have (year or serial number) and type V8, 6 or what ever.

For V motors there is a drain on each side, one on each exhaust manifold, power steering cooler, can be more depending on which motor. Also need to remove and drain lower water circulating hose

SN is OM047597 - 4.3L ALPHA/BRAVO (262 CID - GEN +) from what I can tell. '01.

Very helpful.

I ended up finding 2 drains, one on each side. This confused me because I kept reading "single drain". The manual still further confused me because it shows TWO drains, one high and one low. I drained 3 total on the motor, one on each side and one in the center below the thermostat housing.

Stuck a lightbulb in there down low, and left the engine block heater in there. It wasn't producing as much heat as I thought it might (200 watt) so I think it won't cause any damage.

So between the two I think I should be good as long as it doesn't blow up in the night! haha. Feel much better finding those 2 side drains.

I still feel a little silly because I watched videos, read the forums, and even read through the manual. I'm sure its one of those things that once I do it all once, I'm going to think, "wow that really isn't complicated- why was I intimidated?" haha.

Once again, this forum was very helpful. I spend more time reading than posting, but you stepped in when I needed it and for that I am very grateful. I feel confident in the light bulb tonight, and actually feel like I can figure out this winterizing thing in the future. Still going to have the shop do it this winter, but I think I'll be sure to "know how to do it" in the future.

Thanks again to each one of you who stepped in this evening.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Pull the drains on each side of block, and on each manifold. Pull large hose off of water pump. If you change motor oil and gear lube, your boat is winterized

 

[RaceCarRich]

Never used one but they do make heaters that replace the dipstick.

 

[Scott Danforth]

also drain the two manifolds