Help for stripped carb nozzle on 1985 evinrude 8hp

badcrc

Cadet
Joined
May 3, 2017
Messages
14
While cleaning my 1985 Evinrude 8hp for the first time in its life I was trying to be thorough and tried to unscrew the nozzle in the center of the carb. I stripped it a little and wanted to know if that will affect functioning or should I leave it alone or try to straighten what I stripped a little? Apparently the nozzle doesn't come out even though it has slots to unscrew. Here is the pic: i63.tinypic.com/29qchg2.jpg

If anyone is wondering I was trying to clean the nozzle because the motor has been doing this stuttering on and off for a couple years where it revs up and down and slows down to troll speed when you have throttle high and after a few minutes it starts running ok for a while. But it only did that occasionally until the end of last season. Everything in the carb looked great as you can see in the picture, except the float was severely corroded. Nothing was clogged or dirty so at this point I don't know what the problem could be if it's not the float. I always unplug the fuel line and burn out the gas every time I run the motor and have done that since I was a kid.
 
Last edited:

badcrc

Cadet
Joined
May 3, 2017
Messages
14
Not sure how to post a pic but here it is: i63.tinypic.com/29qchg2.jpg
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
can't see the pic. But how is it stripped? slot buggered up? If it's otherwise intact, I would just soak it with the carb top as part of cleaning. Blow through it with some carb spray or compressed air.
 

badcrc

Cadet
Joined
May 3, 2017
Messages
14
can't see the pic. But how is it stripped? slot buggered up? If it's otherwise intact, I would just soak it with the carb top as part of cleaning. Blow through it with some carb spray or compressed air.
I couldn't post a pic with a link because the forum said I didn't have permission. I guess you need a certain number of posts first. If you cut & paste the exact link into your browser it will work. Anyway, part of the metal by the slot is bent off to one side slightly and it's a little chewed up. It doesn't look that bad in the pic. I guess what I was looking for is whether that nozzle has to be perfect to function, and to see if that nozzle is indeed permanent.
 

Vic.S

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
4,719
I doubt there is anything you can do that wont make matters worse. Finish cleaning the carb thoroughly, reassemble and hope!
If you have wrecked it you will have to look out for a second hand carb

Your motor is covered by the manual on boatinfo at http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manu...inrude.html#/0

Check the fuel system through. Replace the float if necessary and adjust as described in the manual

Check the ignition. The symptoms suggest that it may be intermittently running on one cylinder only. Try new plugs for starters ( Champion QL77JC4 or QL86C gapped at 0.030")
If you can catch it misbehaving while its running in a barrel do a cylinder drop test.

BTW the correct fuel mix is 50:1 even if the decals and the owners manual say 100:1
 
Last edited:

badcrc

Cadet
Joined
May 3, 2017
Messages
14
I doubt there is anything you can do that wont make matters worse. Finish cleaning the carb thoroughly, reassemble and hope!
If you have wrecked it you will have to look out for a second hand carb

Your motor is covered by the manual on boatinfo at http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manu...inrude.html#/0

Check the fuel system through. Replace the float if necessary and adjust as described in the manual

Check the ignition. The symptoms suggest that it may be intermittently running on one cylinder only. Try new plugs for starters ( Champion QL77JC4 or QL86C gapped at 0.030")
If you can catch it misbehaving while its running in a barrel do a cylinder drop test.

BTW the correct fuel mix is 50:1 even if the decals and the owners manual say 100:1

Thanks for the tips. I did replace the plugs last season when I did the gearcase oil change. But it was running ok for a while like it usually does, and like I said later in the season it was doing it more often until the last day I ran it the stuttering wouldn't stop. When I got the motor new I was running 50:1 for the break in (maybe it was 40:1, can't remember now) and I did read in the manual that it was 100:1 after break in. I was only 14 years old at the time but I think I remember reading something that said they changed their thinking on that and it should be 50:1 all the time, so that's what I always did. I'm finding a couple different methods to do a cylinder drop test, so I'll have to look into that more.
 

badcrc

Cadet
Joined
May 3, 2017
Messages
14
Just to follow up on this project. I cleaned the carb, replaced the jets, replaced the float and needle valve, and I also bought the rebuild kit for the fuel pump and replaced all the gaskets and everything. The fuel screen was totally clean and the kit didn't come with that part, but I "cleaned" it and put it back in. Mixed up some new fuel at 50:1 and the motor started right up. I ran it at idle for several minutes, then got it up to full throttle and it was surging again for a minute or so, then ran fine after that. I ran it for a few days and haven't had the surging, but clearly the carb and fuel pump wasn't the problem. Other than the surging at the beginning the motor ran better than I ever remember it running. It planed out my 12 foot boat easily with 3 people in the boat and ran great. I'm not sure what to make of it or how to diagnose an intermittent problem like that. Guess I'll wait for it to get worse so I can do some testing.
 
Top