Help me 'divine' the core/structure materials on a swim deck

doyall

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The factory-installed extended swim deck on my boat (2007 Azure AZ220 Sportdeck) suffers from water incursion and presumably has since new. The swim deck is physically connected to the boat hull with bolts. I discovered the water incursion when drilling holes for a pedestal base for a grill. I certainly think it would be preferable to remedy the situation but have no desire to cut the support structure open for further investigation/replacement. My initial thoughts are to flood the deck with some Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES™) through the initial point of water incursion. Of course I must attempt to dry the core and support materials as much as possible first. My thought on that is to flood the deck with acetone, drain and then use pressurized air over the months before boating season begins to evaporate the acetone/water as much as possible. There is an open path for pressurized air to travel. (The attached picture shows the water incursion point with an arrow and the drain holes I drilled in the support structures circled.)

During drilling of the deck I did not encounter anything in the 1/4" to 1/2" core I believed was wood or styrofoam. However when drilling holes in the support structures I encountered a material that retained water very well. This support structure material was the color of wood but had more of a composite-looking texture. After allowing the extracted material to dry I ignited it to see what happened. There was a minimal amount of flame with more of a glowing phenomenon. What remained was not typical wood ash. (I can post a picture of the remnants if it will help anyone.) After draining what water was in the structural support channels, the remaining material does not feel particularly mushy when poked with an ice pick. My theory is that since the support structure material does appear to absorb water it should absorb the CPES™ as well and therefore solidify the structure in order to preclude the necessity of replacement.

I would like to know, to the best of my ability to determine, what materials the deck core and support structures are before the acetone-flooding as I realize acetone will immediately damage some resin-based materials. ( http://sevierlab.vet.cornell.edu/res...art-Detail.pdf )
The boat manufacturer (Bennington Marine) will be of no help as they by all reports quit responding to any questions about the brand when they ceased manufacturing it in 2009.

Anybody care to take a stab as to what the deck core but more importantly the support-structure materials might be?

Or, am I over-thinking it all and should just not worry about the water incursion? The swim deck does seem solid and not anywhere close to being compromised.
 

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Woodonglass

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1st off I think you're worrying about nothing. The core material was just used as a MOLD for the glass and nothing more. Water intrusion has NOT compromised your platforms strength. 2nd, do not use Acetone, if anything use Antifreeze to flush the area, but again NOT needed IMHO. 3rd CPES is Crap and IF you want to try and beef up the platform use full strength Epoxy and NOT the weakend and ruined Solvent Thinned CPES crap. Again Just my humble opinion!!!!;):D
 

tpenfield

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If it is not wood, then probably a high density urethane foam ( not styrofoam, which is styrene foam). Gravity can help here . . . So long as it is foam. Don't do the acetone thing, not a good idea at all, as it will weaken the resin in the fiberglass. A good thing to do would be position the boat so the the swim platform is on an incline. Then drill a hole underneath at the low spots. Also a couple of holes underneath at the high spots of the platform. Gravity will cause the water to run out the holes of the low spots. Once water no longer drains from the core, you can let it really dry out in the hot sun for a while ( or indoors with an elevated heat and low humidity) If you want to do the penetrating epoxy thing, you would just use the holes on the low spots to inject the liquid until it comes out the high spots ( probably some tubing will be useful to inject the epoxy into the holes) Let it all cure and then finish off the holes with some gelcoat. If the core is actually wood, then getting the water out will be much harder perhaps nearly impossible unless you have a really dry area to store the boat for several/many months. Post some more pictures so we can see what you are seeing.
 

doyall

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I appreciate the advice on the acetone flush.

I wish there were some additional pictures that could be taken in order for me to post and elicit some more good comments/ideas. Since I already have holes drilled to let gravity drain what will drain and have already performed destructive testing on the material that was removed, I am hesitant to drill more holes or go deeper on the existing ones for more samples. And in any case I am not so sure how elucidating a picture of the extracted material would be by itself. As the remaining sub-surface materials seem solid the overwhelming temptation is to let it sit as is until shortly before boating season begins then either do something or maybe not worry about it at all.

Anyone have any thoughts on whether I should seal off the point of water intrusion (it came from the factory that way) along with sealing the drain holes or in the alternative just leaving it all unsealed to continually drain?

I may have a line on some epoxy designed to work under these conditions. I will follow-up if I go that route.
 

tpenfield

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Definitely seal off the source of the moisture and see if it is dry enough to seal all the holes prior to putting the boat into use for the season.
 

Woodonglass

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I'd like to see more pics of the overall platform. It's my UN-educated opinion that the platform is Self-Supporting and NOT dependent on the interior material. IMHO it was just the mold and is NOT structural. If this IS the case then again IMHO there is no problem leaving drainage holes in the structure and in a way this might actually be beneficial. Again this IS an UN-educated opinion. Additional Pics would be of GREAT Assistance in ferreting out the facts.
 

doyall

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Pics of the top and bottom of the deck from the same side are attached. The bolts for the transom support brackets have been removed and a small wedge placed in between to open it up for what little air it would provide. There was no sealant on either the top or bottom of the deck where the bolts holding the support to the deck went through but that will be done when I replace them, as will the bolts on the new grill pole support plate. There are a couple of (what I perceive to be) insignificant stress cracks emanating from underneath the near support bracket but there is no other damage or weakness anywhere. The deck is as sound as I could imagine a deck could be. I would never have perceived there to be a problem except for some brown staining coming from the source of the water incursion. (The black hooks and straps are part of the support system for the full cover.)
 

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Woodonglass

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Ok, based on these pics this is a total fiberglass structure that was fabricated with glass reinforcement bars incorporated within the mold. What you are finding is the Mold material and nothing more. Your deck will not suffer a loss in it's structural integrity from water intrusion into these hollow reniforcement "Bars". The glass is the Load Bearing structure. Drilling small drainage holes in the bottom of these would NOT be a bad thing, IMHO.
 

doyall

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Sounds reasonable to me Woodonglass. Thanks a bunch for the analysis!
 
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