fastinated
Cadet
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Messages
- 10
Well guys I had posted here the other day. Got everything together and decided before my test run to pull the prop, brg carrier and reverse gear to have a "look see" prior to a wet run. Well my occasional skip under power destroyed the pinion and the fwd gear.. Caught it all early and new gears on the way.. But I have some pertinant ?'s before I start this adjustment. Ok I bought this thing about 12 years ago (used, it's an 86').. After I got it home and did the normal oil changes the drive was lubricated with salt water (nice!) Long story short the bellows and input seal was toasted. Fixed and fast forward to 3 years ago. I took the drive off and resealed the lower unit. Gears looked perfect, bearings ok, So I used it since maybe 40 hours. Recently it began to skip under load (on a plane) sounds terrible when it did it so that's why I opened it up this time.. Guess that's the part that gets hurt is the gear faces. The shift dog looked fine.. So I'm inspecting the rest to see what I have to order and I'm replacing all the bearings, thrust bearings and thrust washers. Upon really close inspection of the prop shaft and drive shaft there is really slight corrosion, or what used to be. The bearing surface looks perfect besides this. They are tiny pits probably from the salt water over a decade ago. I'm not replacing the 2 shafts. Should I replace the bearing near the pinion if I'm not replacing the shaft? Don't think I could even get this in a picture. I barely even saw these things. There are no scrapes grooves or anything, plus it's had many an hour since the salt water..I can't stress enough how smooth the races were. After I bought it and the salt water problem I've been overboard on oil changes sometimes 3, 4, or 5+ times depending on use.
Ok question # 2.. For shifter detent height the 7 3/16" (correct) from the lower unit casing (not shifter cover) to the top of the rod itself or the top of the part that the end of the rod (don't know the name or if it is even removable). I've read all that I can and yes have went and looked at what ever his name's instructions. Also the adjustment for the 90 degrees on th bell crank (the cable connects to) My book says go off 90 degrees and check length at the motor.. So is this adjustment so the cable will be able to pull full length? I need idiot proof stuff here guys.. I took the time last time and pretty sure I got it wrong b/c the only thing wrong in the drive is the gears. I thought the clutch dog would be worn and be the culpret, but it's all my fault this time. Also any tricks to shimming the lower unit other than the $161 price for the tool (ebasicpower.com)? Any other advice? I'll be doing this myself.
If you have $.02 for this one I'd appreciate it. I'm leaving for the keys in <3 weeks for my honeymoon and the boat has got to go with us!!...
Ok question # 2.. For shifter detent height the 7 3/16" (correct) from the lower unit casing (not shifter cover) to the top of the rod itself or the top of the part that the end of the rod (don't know the name or if it is even removable). I've read all that I can and yes have went and looked at what ever his name's instructions. Also the adjustment for the 90 degrees on th bell crank (the cable connects to) My book says go off 90 degrees and check length at the motor.. So is this adjustment so the cable will be able to pull full length? I need idiot proof stuff here guys.. I took the time last time and pretty sure I got it wrong b/c the only thing wrong in the drive is the gears. I thought the clutch dog would be worn and be the culpret, but it's all my fault this time. Also any tricks to shimming the lower unit other than the $161 price for the tool (ebasicpower.com)? Any other advice? I'll be doing this myself.
If you have $.02 for this one I'd appreciate it. I'm leaving for the keys in <3 weeks for my honeymoon and the boat has got to go with us!!...