Help on securing cooler seat to fiberglass deck

[sparky357]

I have a fiberglass deck on my boat. I want to install a cooler box seat. The cooler has a total of four pre drilled holes per side on its base. I do not have access directly under the deck where I want to install it.

I could cut an access cover but that would be my last option. I looked at stainless toggle bolts. I do not like that you have to drill a much larger hole to get the toggle in.

My first option is to install stainless screws with sealant into the deck. Has this worked for anyone??? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Also when drilling a pilot hole into fiberglass decking, is there a secret on not cracking the edges of the fiberglass around the hole??? Is there a prefered drill bit ype to use???

Thanks SP357

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Help on securing cooler seat to fiberglass deck

Well to start with...what kind of boat do you have?

As far as toggle bolts, most likely you have foam under the deck and the "wings" wouldn't open up anyway.

You probably have wood under the glass deck that will hold screws fine if the wood is still solid.

On the drill bit, most any drill rated for metal cutting will be just fine for fiberglass.

Again, though, a picture or type of boat this is going in would really help a lot.

 

[nehringer]

Re: Help on securing cooler seat to fiberglass deck

I like the toggle bolts with the little "zip tie" thingies. I don't remember exactly what they are called, but I saw them first on Oop's thread. Hollowing out the foam just under the surface to make room for the toggle might take a little extra effort, but you certainly won't be compromising anything under the deck. You could take a bent nail and chuck it up into your drill, insert the nail into the hole and spin out a little cavity for the wings of your toggle bolt. There is most likely wood under there as mentioned above and lag screws will work fine. Of course you will want to drill a pilot hole to keep the decking from splitting. When I drill a hole into fiberglass, I apply a piece of masking tape over my mark. This keeps the bit from slipping and sliding until it bites. Then I mix up a little bit of resin and hardener and dip the screw into it so that the new installation is completely sealed up. If the screw ever needs to be backed out, the cured resin will break free of the screw. I'm sure there are other techniques, but this has worked fine for me.