Hot wiring an outboard...sort of

[63cruiser]

I have a 1977 johnson 140 and I do not want to use that red plug for a wiring harness. I would like to conect wires to the individual coponetes and run my own switch, gauge etc. Just curious if anyone as done this. Thank

 

[Bosunsmate]

i havent but you easily can
just follow this wiring diagram
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html

 

[glenn property of pam]

I have to ask why you would want to. Now I can see a reason on a old boat to pull the key out of the remote control and mount that (or a different one) to a dash then move the neural switch to another shifter. Also dash mount the kill switch and hide the audio alarm under dash but I wouldn't remove the red plug to do this or run new wire.
Gauges on a boat only get power, ground and tac signal from the controller all the other wires are from the boat electrical wiring and nothing to do with the motor. So lights etc are not running from the motor electrical system but are running off the boat electrical system.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Keep this in mind. The engine has it's own 20 amp fuse. The more accessories you load up on the engine wiring, the more likely you are to blow that fuse. Once that fuse blows, the starter is done. That usually happens when you are miles from the dock. Follow Glenn's recommendation.

 

[63cruiser]

I want to do it because I want to use the original helm and also I do not like the idea of a plug. A plug is basically a set of loose wires that will fail way before a solid wire does. I was mostly looking for pictures of such wiring and any hint and tips. Thanks

 

[glenn property of pam]

best tip would be to use a section of the original wire if you have it so the color code stays the same. It would be nearly impossible to get a multi-core wire matched to factory colors and that would really help with trouble shooting problems a year or two down the line. basically following the link bosunsmate posted will do the dash end and and following the red plug end until you find a terminal will do the motor end.
Now if you are doing this because you don't have a original cable then maybe we can find you one real cheap

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

A plug is basically a set of loose wires that will fail way before a solid wire does. .......

You're looking at an awful lot of work just to do away with a tried and true connector. And some of the items which you'll need to connect simply can't be wired direct without some form of connector (the temperature alarm switches and primer solenoid come to mind), at a minimum you're looking at either soldering or else butt-splices. Solder connections can fail in high vibration applications, and if you go the butt-splice route you should use PIDG type which have a second crimp area which crimps the insulation as a strain relief, and then waterproof those in some way.

That red connector is extremely reliable (so long as the clip is installed that holds it together). If you want you could use some dielectric grease to help keep moisture away from the mating parts, but other than that it sounds like you're making a lot of work for no reason.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Agree 100%!

 

[63cruiser]

Well I started rewiring the motor. Easy does not describe how this little task is. There are only 8 wires in the plug. I am using wires the same color as original. It is only a few ring terminals. The temp sensor connectors look like something harbor freight would use. Ill post a pic of that soon.