Houseboat roof paint questions

nopEda

Cadet
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Jul 14, 2010
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19
Hi,

I've used some figerglass cloth and West systems fiberglass resin to repair a couple of sections on my houseboat's roof. It came out good and strong and hard though it's beginning to yellow. I don't really care about the yellowing but am afraid the UV from the sun might be breaking it down. Can anyone suggest a good economical paint to use on it? Does it matter what type of paint? Since it will be on the roof it will need to hold up to some foot traffic. But it doesn't need to add strength like gel coat since the fiberglassing seems to have that part covered.

Thanks for any help with this!
David
 

nopEda

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Jul 14, 2010
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Went by Sherwin Williams today and the girl had to call their help people. Came back and said the porch and floor paint wouldn't adhere to fiberglass so suggested some indoor gel product and to cover it with a clear outdoor product. I don't like that idea much.

Then went to West Marine and they suggested Petit EZPoxy Topside paint. Polyurethane, 32 oz for $50. Then that needs a 3021 performance enhancer for another $35 for a small can of it. And that stuff can't be cleaned up with water. Hopefully when I'm off work on Tuesday I can go by Lowe's or Home Depot, or maybe Ace hardware, and find the type of porch and deck product some people have told me about. Can anyone suggest something more specific to ask about to make sure it will adhere to fiberglass resin and can be cleaned up with water? I don't know anything about types of paint.
 

chevymaher

Commander
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Anything sticks to primer. Primer the glass first. Read woodenglasses stickies for best paints to use in water.
 

Woodonglass

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Not sure why you're not considering Either Rustoleum Pro Oil Based paint or the Majic Tractor paint as suggested. It's been use by a LOT of our members and it works extremely well on fiberglass. The Floor and Porch Paint does not.
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
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Sep 27, 2012
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IMO Majic paint is some pretty horrible stuff to work with, even for painting tractors. I think it has to do with the soybean oil. I tried to like it. If it's white that you need and it sounds like it is, then Rustoleum Pro white ( silver can ) is good stuff.

One step further is getting automotive paint from TCP Global where an acrylic enamel kit will run about $100 for a gallon kit and it has UV inhibitors where tractor paint does not ( marine enamel does not either fwiw )
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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11,475
Can anyone suggest a good economical paint to use on it?

Thanks for any help with this!
David
Rusto or the Majic is fine just make sure you use the hardener . That’s good and economical ..
Better paints start to cost more .. Just depends on what you want to spend ..
I have been using PPG Delfleet Essential polyurethane enamel single stage paint lately ..
A bit more expensive than the rusto enamel but not too much more ...
 

nopEda

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Jul 14, 2010
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Right now after the things people have said here and other places I'm thinking to clean the amine blush first with water and a scrub pad. Then rough it up with 60 grit sandpaper. Then sweep off the dust and wash with acetone. Then use a primer, rated for wet bathroom type conditions? Or outdoor? Then use a deck paint like Behr. Or Olympic... does it matter? Rustoleum? Can it be water cleanup paint? Also for the additional coats does it need more washing or acetone or sanding or priming or... between coats, or can you just apply the additional coats after you've primed it for the first coat?

Thank you folks for all your help, and your patience with my ignorance!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I would NOT use deck paint
I would NOT use what ever INDOOR primer you are looking at

quit thinking house, think more tractor/farm implement/boat

I would use a good self etching or epoxy primer, however the rustoleum primer is ok too.

I would use rustoleum industrial or magic with hardener...... just like it says in the sticky
 

Woodonglass

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IMO Majic paint is some pretty horrible stuff to work with, even for painting tractors. I think it has to do with the soybean oil. I tried to like it. If it's white that you need and it sounds like it is, then Rustoleum Pro white ( silver can ) is good stuff.

One step further is getting automotive paint from TCP Global where an acrylic enamel kit will run about $100 for a gallon kit and it has UV inhibitors where tractor paint does not ( marine enamel does not either fwiw )

I respectfully disagree. Not sure what your experience is/was but I've used the paint a LOT! No Issues other than their Primer. You DON'T have to use their reducer, I used my Own formula for a reducer, I did use their Hardener but I've also use Wet Look and others. Any Acrylic Paint Hardener will work just fine with Majic Tracto Paint. I've found it to be extremely durable, has a Very High Gloss and easy to work with. I struggle to find much of a difference with it and Rustoleum. Not sure about the Soybean Oil BUT I've submitted a request to their Techs for an updated MSDS sheet. Several years ago I did extensive research on the paint and they did NOT use it. Their formula was almost identical to the Rustoleum pro formula. Depending on a LOT of variables, paint can yield a lot of different results. Most of the members here on this forum have had very good results with the paint.
 

nopEda

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Jul 14, 2010
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Went to Lowe's and then Home Depot today. Those guys know a lot less than you people and I told them now that I know what specifically is available I'd ask the forum people and see what they suggest.

Lowe's has Zinsser 1-2-3 water based primer and sealer. The guy said it should be good enough if covered with an oil based paint. Also Valspar porch and floor anti-skid latex (with sand stuff mixed in) $40/gallon. Or Rustoleum flat oil based 7590 $10/qt, said the flat finish will make it not too slippery. Probably about like what was up there originally.

Home Depot has Zinsser 1-2-3 Bulls Eye water based primer $22/gallon. Also Behr low-lustre enamel 6050-N $30/gallon. Or Rustoleum protective enamel oil based flat white 7790 $8.37/qt.

I tried to stick with oil based paints that were intended to be walked on, so even with so many selections of different paints available at the store it came down to pretty much those few. Would any of those paints not need a primer? Or would it always be better to use a primer regardless? Is it true that the water based primer would be okay if covered with an oil based paint? Is mineral spirits all I need to have to clean up, or would acetone (I've learned to love acetone) do better? Will it clean the brushes, or would it do as well or better to just replace the brush after every coat, since Dollar Tree sells the 3" brushes I've been using to apply the fiberglass resin for $1 each? I don't think there's enough open area to make using a roller and pan etc worthwhile.
 

edgepa

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 30, 2011
Messages
93
Not to beat a dead horse, but you should read Woodonglass link about tractor paint.
​​​​​​ I painted my boat this summer (link attached... Hopefully).

​​​​it wasn't perfect, but that was on me. Read the tractor paint thread. Then read it again. I missed a few things the first time through.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Went to Lowe's and then Home Depot today. Those guys know a lot less than you people and I told them now that I know what specifically is available I'd ask the forum people and see what they suggest.

Lowe's has Zinsser 1-2-3 water based primer and sealer. The guy said it should be good enough if covered with an oil based paint. Also Valspar porch and floor anti-skid latex (with sand stuff mixed in) $40/gallon. Or Rustoleum flat oil based 7590 $10/qt, said the flat finish will make it not too slippery. Probably about like what was up there originally.

Home Depot has Zinsser 1-2-3 Bulls Eye water based primer $22/gallon. Also Behr low-lustre enamel 6050-N $30/gallon. Or Rustoleum protective enamel oil based flat white 7790 $8.37/qt.

I tried to stick with oil based paints that were intended to be walked on, so even with so many selections of different paints available at the store it came down to pretty much those few. Would any of those paints not need a primer? Or would it always be better to use a primer regardless? Is it true that the water based primer would be okay if covered with an oil based paint? Is mineral spirits all I need to have to clean up, or would acetone (I've learned to love acetone) do better? Will it clean the brushes, or would it do as well or better to just replace the brush after every coat, since Dollar Tree sells the 3" brushes I've been using to apply the fiberglass resin for $1 each? I don't think there's enough open area to make using a roller and pan etc worthwhile.

Stop.

read the sticky (Woodonglass's thread on paint)

follow the instructions on the sticky here is a direct link https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...1961-lonestar-flamingo-splashed-w-pics/page16

you are ignoring the advise of the people here and listening to skippy at home depot. Skippy at home depot doesnt know a boat from a bucket.

the Zinser primer is for drywall, while its an OK primer for its intended task, it wont do S#IT for your needs

IT IS ALWAYS BEST TO USE A PRIMER.

all your questions are covered in the sticky

is there a reason you continue to ignore the advise given to you by the forum members here?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Messages
25,929
OK I have to ask...Have you read the Sticky??? If not why do you keep asking for our advice? All your questions have already been answered but you haven't referenced any of them.
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
I tried to stick with oil based paints that were intended to be walked on, so even with so many selections of different paints available at the store it came down to pretty much those few. Would any of those paints not need a primer? Or would it always be better to use a primer regardless? Is it true that the water based primer would be okay if covered with an oil based paint? Is mineral spirits all I need to have to clean up, or would acetone (I've learned to love acetone) do better? Will it clean the brushes, or would it do as well or better to just replace the brush after every coat, since Dollar Tree sells the 3" brushes I've been using to apply the fiberglass resin for $1 each? I don't think there's enough open area to make using a roller and pan etc worthwhile.

Your problems seem to stem from searching for water based paint or primer for a foot traffic area. Thats a tough shoe to fill..Paint adhesion is only as good as its substrate...so solvent based paint over waterbased primer is not ideal. You will only get a physical bond, not chemical. Pick a decent topcoat, match it to its recommended primer and thinner....if its a 2 part, use the correct activator, and u will be fine. Clean ur brushes with the thinner u use.

Marine paint systems to look at are from

Pettit, Interlux, Awlgrip, TotalBoat

Then theres the Alkyd Enemels like Rustoleum, and Tractor paint, which were recommended to u already, and are the most cost effective.

Automotive paints are spray only, so if ur brushing, they are not an option.
 
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