how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

irocz_man

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I have an upper cylinder on my v4 that has a cold plug to the touch, while other 3 are hot even after running at WOT.
Tried swapping coil and wire with another and problem stays at that cylinder. Changed plugs too and problem still at that cylinder. Has spark at idle when you pull plug or put inline spark tester on it; compression is equal to other cylinders at 130.
I'm hearing it could be a bad powerpack, that is dropping output to that cylinder under power - thoughts?
Also, hearing maybe there's water intrusion in the cylinder - how do I figure out if I'm getting/have water in a cylinder?

Please help!
 

boobie

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

Pull the spark plugs out and ground them. Then hook up a flusher and crank the mtr over and see if you get any water out of the cyl.
 
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Daviet

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

A lot of the time water will wash a plug clean.
 

boobie

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

Do what I said in post # 2.
 

V153

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

You might not wanna hear this but I'd bet it's the stator. I just went through a similar problem with my '83 140. All of a sudden she developed a persistant miss in #4 cyl. Swapped out plugs, wires, coil(s), powerpacks. To no avail. Which led, ultimately, to the stator.

Considering your compression #s I doubt you have a water intrusion problem ...?
 

irocz_man

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

Pull the spark plugs out and ground them. Then hook up a flusher and crank the mtr over and see if you get any water out of the cyl.

Thanks - that's a good idea! I'll try it!
 

irocz_man

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

You might not wanna hear this but I'd bet it's the stator. I just went through a similar problem with my '83 140. All of a sudden she developed a persistant miss in #4 cyl. Swapped out plugs, wires, coil(s), powerpacks. To no avail. Which led, ultimately, to the stator.

Considering your compression #s I doubt you have a water intrusion problem ...?

Interesting as mine's an '85 140 and Thank You - I don't mind hearing it maybe the stator as at least it's a possible explanation if the powerpack isn't the problem, as I'm hoping it isn't a water intrusion issue!
 

willy007

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

With those compression #'s I doubt water intrusion is a problem... what do the plugs look like when you pull them from the bad cylinder? I have to agree with V153; if you swapped plugs, wires, and coils already you're probably looking at a stator (assuming the powerpack is still good).
 

irocz_man

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

With those compression #'s I doubt water intrusion is a problem... what do the plugs look like when you pull them from the bad cylinder? I have to agree with V153; if you swapped plugs, wires, and coils already you're probably looking at a stator (assuming the powerpack is still good).

Thanks for reply! The plug(s) - ran 2 sets to see if problem was the same with known good coil and wires - from that cylinder come out with a black tip and black electrode and have a wet look and when you wipe them a little black moisture is transferred to your finger. When you shut the engine off at WOT and touch plugs the other 3 are hot to the touch and this one's cold. What's your opinion on that please?
Also, when you crank the motor this plug has spark, but seems like under power it doesn't - that can happen with a bad powerpack or stator right?
 

irocz_man

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

Interesting as mine's an '85 140 and Thank You - I don't mind hearing it maybe the stator as at least it's a possible explanation if the powerpack isn't the problem, as I'm hoping it isn't a water intrusion issue!

Did you have spark at idle with a tester?
Or spark when grounding plug against engine block and cranking the motor?
 

irocz_man

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

Pull the spark plugs out and ground them. Then hook up a flusher and crank the mtr over and see if you get any water out of the cyl.

Okay, cranked motor with plug out of that cylinder - no moisture; cranked again with plug in - no moisture; started motor on other 3 cylinders to get water coming out of water exhaust port and only puffs of air came out of that cylinder while it ran and it was dry again when I checked it after shutting engine off.
Think that confirms I don't have a water intrusion problem - thoughts please everyone?
 

willy007

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

I've pondered this for a little while to not much avail but I did come up with a couple far-fetched ideas... I guess 1st of all (and I probably should have asked originally) are you getting gas into that cylinder? If you're only getting puffs of air out one of the carbs may have an issue and you might not be getting any fuel into that cylinder. If you're getting a spark at idle and with a tester as you stated in your original post than you should be getting it if your motor's running... Some electrical components do start to fail after they heat up (after working fine when cold) as they wear out but to my understanding, and correct me if i'm wrong, you're not getting ignition in that cylinder even when cold correct?
 

irocz_man

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

I've pondered this for a little while to not much avail but I did come up with a couple far-fetched ideas... I guess 1st of all (and I probably should have asked originally) are you getting gas into that cylinder? If you're only getting puffs of air out one of the carbs may have an issue and you might not be getting any fuel into that cylinder. If you're getting a spark at idle and with a tester as you stated in your original post than you should be getting it if your motor's running... Some electrical components do start to fail after they heat up (after working fine when cold) as they wear out but to my understanding, and correct me if i'm wrong, you're not getting ignition in that cylinder even when cold correct?

Thank You for your assistance!

After not seeing any fuel coming out of that cylinder with the engine running, I'm starting to question whether I was getting ignition in that cylinder at idle - I thought I was, because it sounded like it was running okay. But maybe I'm not, that plug was cold every time I checked it, that was always after a WOT run though.

How do I check to see if the carb's letting fuel through to that cylinder?

To see if that cylinder is igniting at idle should I start the engine with all 4 plugs hooked up and compare that sound and RPMs to starting it with that plug wire off?
 

Toddboat

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

Remove the plastic air filter (silencer) that covers the carbs so you can see into the carb throats.
Without the motor running, press on the throttle linkage in the motor to see if all of the butterfly plates in the carbs are opening at the same time. If that one cylinder's butterfly plate isn't opening (due to a broken or disconnected throttle linkage), then you may have found your problem. If it is functioning correctly, then look into the fuel side of the equation.
Remove the fuel line from that carb. Squeeze the primer bulb. If fuel does not come out, then you may have found your problem. If fuel does come out, then the problem could be inside the carburetor itself.
Disassemble the carb and remove the float, needle and seat. Then reassemble the carb. I know this is unorthodox, but this is my method. Put the fuel line back onto the carb. Prime the bulb and watch if fuel comes out the tiny holes in the top of throat in the carburetor. These tiny holes are the ends of the idle and low speed circuits. Also watch that fuel comes out the copper tube in the bottom of the carb throat. Be careful when you prime the bulb because excess fuel may also squirt out of an overflow hole in the top of the carb. If fuel comes out of the tiny holes in the top of the carb throat, and out of the tube in the bottom of the carb throat, then your problem is not fuel starvation. If fuel does not come out of all of these holes, then you have blocked jets and/or passages in the carb. In this case, remove all plastic and rubber parts of the carb and completely submerge it in a bath of Techron for 2 days. Then clean it with spray carb cleaner, reassemble and reinstall it.
Another possibility is that the top carb may have been flooding, preventing the top cylinder from firing. I don't think this is likely because a flooded motor typically will not start at all. If it were flooded, you would likely see some fuel leaking out of that spark plug hole unless you did the test where you removed the spark plug a day later, letting the fuel evaporate away. If the top carb is flooding the motor, you'll be able to see this while priming the bulb and looking into the carb throats. Once the primer bulb gets hard, you should still be able to pump it without any fuel leakage into the carb throats. If instead you see fuel leaking into that carb while priming the bulb, then your needle valve is not seating properly. To fix this, diassemble the carb and adjust/replace the float, needle and seat. When the needle valve is working properly, you should be able to blow air into the fuel inlet on the carb when the carb is right side up, but you should not be able to blow air into it when the carb is upside down.
 

irocz_man

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Re: how do you know if you're getting water in a cylinder on a v4 evinrude?

Remove the plastic air filter (silencer) that covers the carbs so you can see into the carb throats.
Without the motor running, press on the throttle linkage in the motor to see if all of the butterfly plates in the carbs are opening at the same time. If that one cylinder's butterfly plate isn't opening (due to a broken or disconnected throttle linkage), then you may have found your problem. If it is functioning correctly, then look into the fuel side of the equation.
Remove the fuel line from that carb. Squeeze the primer bulb. If fuel does not come out, then you may have found your problem. If fuel does come out, then the problem could be inside the carburetor itself.
Disassemble the carb and remove the float, needle and seat. Then reassemble the carb. I know this is unorthodox, but this is my method. Put the fuel line back onto the carb. Prime the bulb and watch if fuel comes out the tiny holes in the top of throat in the carburetor. These tiny holes are the ends of the idle and low speed circuits. Also watch that fuel comes out the copper tube in the bottom of the carb throat. Be careful when you prime the bulb because excess fuel may also squirt out of an overflow hole in the top of the carb. If fuel comes out of the tiny holes in the top of the carb throat, and out of the tube in the bottom of the carb throat, then your problem is not fuel starvation. If fuel does not come out of all of these holes, then you have blocked jets and/or passages in the carb. In this case, remove all plastic and rubber parts of the carb and completely submerge it in a bath of Techron for 2 days. Then clean it with spray carb cleaner, reassemble and reinstall it.
Another possibility is that the top carb may have been flooding, preventing the top cylinder from firing. I don't think this is likely because a flooded motor typically will not start at all. If it were flooded, you would likely see some fuel leaking out of that spark plug hole unless you did the test where you removed the spark plug a day later, letting the fuel evaporate away. If the top carb is flooding the motor, you'll be able to see this while priming the bulb and looking into the carb throats. Once the primer bulb gets hard, you should still be able to pump it without any fuel leakage into the carb throats. If instead you see fuel leaking into that carb while priming the bulb, then your needle valve is not seating properly. To fix this, diassemble the carb and adjust/replace the float, needle and seat. When the needle valve is working properly, you should be able to blow air into the fuel inlet on the carb when the carb is right side up, but you should not be able to blow air into it when the carb is upside down.

Thanks for the reply!

-butterfly plates open consistent with other 3 carbs when you move throttle linkage.
-with fuel line off that carb, fuel bulb squeezing squirts out lots of fuel
-before I get into taking carb apart, wanted to run this by you and willy007...
when I run engine on hose with that cylinder plug wire connected (checked spark again and it's there) the engine is louder and idles 400 rpm higher then if I disconnect that plug wire - does that sound like that cylinder is igniting properly to you or igniting somewhat or ???
 
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