How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

[atticus3600s]

Well I just finished removing the flywheel off my 1968 Johnson 6hp. Came off no problem with an autozone harmonic balancer puller and some 1/4-20 8 grade bolts.
A leather belt to hold the flywheel when wrenching was a crucial tool (all information was gained from this site )

So now that the flywheel is off, what am I supposed to look for and how do I go about disassembling the ignition components.
The motor seems to have weak spark under load so what components should I be looking to change out?
Should I just order new coils/condensors/points or are there tests I can do to check things out?

Thanks guys!

 

[JB]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Forty year old JohnnyRude coils are beyond their usual life, Atticus.

While you are in there anyway, go ahead and give her new points and condensers, too.

Set the points at .020".

You will do yourself a real favor by getting a factory Service Manual.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

I have the same 6hp Johnson sitting in my garage with the flywheel off in the same condition as yours (weak spark, etc). I'm waiting for some free cash, to do the complete ignition (spark plugs, spark plug wires, coils, points, condensers) plus a carb kit (including new float) and water pump impeller before it ever hits the water. My engine has not been run in several years, and I'm going to return it to a known condition before trusting it. You may be fixing it and cursing it endlessly if you don't. I almost always do the refresh to an engine before using it if I don't know how old the replaceable parts are. The coils are by far the most expensive parts of the ignition, so the points and condensers are kind of incidental. The water pump impeller is a must if it's over five years old, particularly if the motor hasn't been run. My carb has a nasty old cork float in it, so that really has to go before the ethanol dissolves it. Bite the bullet and take a day to do this, and you won't regret it, except for the 150 or so bucks out of your pocket.

 

[atticus3600s]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Well I just ordered two new coils and a tune-up kit consisting of two sets of points and two condensors.
Hopefully it will all be here soon and I can get down to business.

Is there anything that I should watch out for when changing everything out? Also what is the best way to gap points?

Thanks.

 

[JB]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

The Manual, Atticus, the Manual.

 

[atticus3600s]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

The Manual, Atticus, the Manual.

Will be ordered in the next hour, what brand do you recommend or should I be looking for a factory service manual?

 

[freddyray21]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Well I just ordered two new coils and a tune-up kit consisting of two sets of points and two condensors.
Hopefully it will all be here soon and I can get down to business.

Is there anything that I should watch out for when changing everything out? Also what is the best way to gap points?

Thanks.

with a feeler gauge

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

JB is right, the manual (the original OMC manual) for that engine is better than anything. A hint: do the ignition carefully one side at a time, so you know where everything goes by looking at the "undone" side. Don't pinch any wires.

That said, after everything is put together, put the flywheel nut on (but not the flywheel) and thread it all of the way down. Use your ratchet to turn the engine clockwise, until the mark on the cam lines up with one of the plastic pieces of the points that ride on the cam. Set the points to be open .020" with the adjustment on the base of the points (the adjustment is the screw in the slot), then tighten the point's mounting screw down. Rotate the cam to line up with the other set of points. Repeat the adjustment. Now rotate it around , line up the cam mark with the first set that you did, and double check the gap. Then double check the other one. Both breakers should now be opening at .020 then they are lined up with the mark on the cam. Put a couple of drops of oil on the wick, take the flywheel nut back off, make sure the flywheel taper is absolutely clean and the key is in properly, put the flywheel on and tighten the nut down to the specified torque with a torque wrench. Too loose is very bad, too tight is also bad.

There you're done with that part. Now time to drop the lower unit to replace the impeller.....

 

[samo_ott]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Whenever I work on the ignition system after I put the flywheel back on I put the nut on finger tight and then rotate the flywheel by hand and check the spark for each cylinder with my spark tester. That way if there's a prob you dont have to torque and re-torque the flywheel. And yes, turning it by hand is plenty to get a good strong spark on a good ignition system.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Good point. I knew I'd miss something. I usually chuck the 3/4" socket (using a couple of adapters) into my drill and spin it that way.

 

[atticus3600s]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Picked up a Clymer manual for 1965-1977 1.5-30HP outboards. Has some good info but lacking in explaining how to adjust the points.
What throttle position are they adjusted at? Which screw?


Thanks.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Now get yourself a factory manual and use the Clymer as a coaster.

 

[atticus3600s]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Now get yourself a factory manual and use the Clymer as a coaster.

haha well the Clymer is from the library and its what I could pick up fast.

I think this is the correct manual that I need to really do anything correctly.

http://www.iboats.com/Johnson_Outbo...1045216--**********.977499694--view_id.440251

 

[wilde1j]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

Well, you should be able to answer your own question, then.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

What do you need to know about setting the points? Feeler gauge, couple of screwdrivers. Throttle position doesn't matter. Take the plugs out, flywheel off, turn the prop in gear, watch points from above, when one opens...stop and check it with a feeler gauge. If it's not right...setting should be on the flywheel I think...loosen the anchor screw, turn the adjust screw until the opening is correct. Tighten the anchor screw. Repeat for other points. You're done. Course you could get extravagant and put new coils/points/condensors in it, too.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

one more thing. There will be a cam on the crank. The word "top" is stamped into it. Middle of the word "top" should like with the point cam when you set them.

 

[atticus3600s]

Re: How to replace/what to look for: Coil/Condensors/Points

I got it figured out I think.
Points were cleaned and set at 0.02, plugs were re-gapped at 0.03.
Checked coils with omh-meter and they appear to be good, checked plug wires for continuity and they are good as well.

The problem appeared to be that the underside of the positive lead from the coil to the condensor on the top cylinder had a section where it was worn though the insulation and it was theoretically arcing onto the bottom plate. I used some of that fusing electrical tape and sealed it all up. Took the motor out tonight and it ran 100000X better, got its power back and idles rreally nice, but it still stumbles just a tad. The stumble may be due to the coils just being old. I have ordered new coils/points/condensors that are in the mail and should be arriving shortly. I will update when those arrive and are installed.
When setting the points I used the flywheel nut and a socket to turn the motor over into the correct position, worked great.

Flywheel torqued to 40ft/lbs per the manual.
Next is a new impeller when I get a chance