How to support 1988 Merc 5.7L Mag on wood while replacing the coupler?

[Fastrack]

Hey.

I pulled the engine today and turned it around in the boat, I blocked it up on some 6x6's and 2x6's. I've searched high and low and all the photos I can find have the motor sitting on the flywheel cover "feet". Obviously the flywheel cover comes off, so how does one support the rear while removing the cover & coupler?

I'd rather not tackle this while suspended. And the oil pan is not strong enough!

Here's my current state:


Thanks in advance,

Ben

 

[tpenfield]

The oil pan should be able to support some weight, but probably not enough as you stated. My thoughts are if you have got the chain hoist still handy, you could use it to suspend the rear portion of the engine and have a small amount of weight on the oil pan for stability.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Unless the oil pan is rusted/ rotten, it oughta hold up just fine,...

 

[Scott Danforth]

oil pan and the two mounts. if your oil pan is not strong enough, its rusted and needs replacing.

 

[Fastrack]

Thanks all,

I'm in Georgian Bay (just off Lake Huron), Ontario with fresh water, the motor only has 850hrs. The boat has been in dry dock for the last 12 years anyway and only put in the water when used. There is not a spec of rust ANYWHERE on the motor!

I never thought the oil pan would be strong enough. I guess the main mounts take up a lot of the weight.

Another question:

When lifting the motor in the dead center side to side (using a chain), the motor was hanging down at the back - of course the motor is on an angle to start with. I only used the 2 lifting eyes not the thermostat housing one - as per the service manual. I was able to move the boat on the railway and pull the motor out from under the rear seat back - the hinge for it had a screw every 4", so I didn't want to remove those.


I have a feeling it'll be a challenge to put back in place on an angle like this.

FYI- I have worked on a 3 cyl automotive engine (just lifted it myself without a hoist) and rebuilt many Ski-doo 2-stroke motors. But this is my first time pulling an I/O.

Ben

 

[Fishermark]

You can adjust the angle by simply putting your hook on a different link in the chain - or buy a leveler. As long as the angle is not too severe it is usually not too difficult to drop it down on the rear mounts and manhandle into place.

 

[Fastrack]

You can adjust the angle by simply putting your hook on a different link in the chain - or buy a leveler. As long as the angle is not too severe it is usually not too difficult to drop it down on the rear mounts and manhandle into place.

I did try that but the motor hung on an angle to one side instead of to the back. I'm probably over thinking this, as I do everything.. but I like it when things go smoothly.. unlike my gimbal bearing install (another topic)

Ben

 

[Scott Danforth]

I use and engine leveler similar to this

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ontent=46249&gclid=CPODzIurlM8CFURahgodQogL3w

 

[Fastrack]

I use and engine leveler similar to this

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ontent=46249&gclid=CPODzIurlM8CFURahgodQogL3w

I actually saw that a Princess Auto up here in Canada. But I didn't buy it as I wasn't sure how to it would work with the 2 diagonal lift points. If there were 4 lift points I think it would work great.

Looks like the oil pan is the way to go. I would lift just the rear using the hoist, but it's 90% rain tomorrow so I gotta put the boat cover back on.

Ben

 

[Bt Doctur]

you only need to use 2 of the chains included or your own chains of the required length. Worst case to level use a ratchet strap to help level it.
As long as you REST it on the rear of the oil pan you`ll be fine.

 

[Fastrack]

you only need to use 2 of the chains included or your own chains of the required length. Worst case to level use a ratchet strap to help level it.
As long as you REST it on the rear of the oil pan you`ll be fine.

Ah. That makes perfect sense. Doh. Should've bought it! I noticed a flat area right near the rear of the pan, where the drain plug is. So just around there avoiding placing it on the drain plug of course


I made another choice when I removed the engine.. I pulled off the front mount nut on each side, instead of the stringer lag bolts.. Will it make it harder to install it like this? I did not touch the bottom nuts, but I figured with the crooked coupler I'll have to realign anyway..

Ben

 

[Bt Doctur]

that method is acceptable as long as you free up the bottom nuts so that they move more easily

 

[Fastrack]

that method is acceptable as long as you free up the bottom nuts so that they move more easily

I bought a engine leveler from Canadian Tire. Looks quite beefy, should make this much easier.

As for the bottom nuts they are free already. I aligned it 2 weeks ago (smooth as butter) - actually turning the nuts with my finger all the way down - I then realized when the motor was turned over 3/4's of a turn it was VERY difficult to get the alignment bar in. Hence the crooked coupler.

Ben

 

[alldodge]

I used chains for years until last year when I had my motor built. The builder says they always use 1 inch lifting straps under the exhaust manifolds. So I tried it and it did work very well, so I'll be don't it from now on that way.

 

[Fastrack]

The Mastercraft Engine leveler works great, purchased from Canadian Tire. The new coupler is installed, new rear mounts as well. The flywheel cover & flywheel look brand new. I don't see any rust on on the motor at all. There's still paint left on the ring gear. Flywheel runout was .004"





Ben

 

[Pete_a]

Fastrack glad you got the leveler. I have one and they help. So im curious, im still learning but why did you replace coupler? I just did alignment on mine and if i rotated my crank 90? mine got a tad tighter. So i did some reading and thats quite normal to have a bit of runout in them. After some running i guess they can flex back into shape so to speak. Yours must have been pretty bad?
I am debating of replacing mine, i have to do my transom. Ive read theyre usually never replaced unless running with the alignment being so far out wears them out. Any recommendations guys? I'll likely keep my old one until i have to redo the engine

 

[Fastrack]

Fastrack glad you got the leveler. I have one and they help. So im curious, im still learning but why did you replace coupler? I just did alignment on mine and if i rotated my crank 90? mine got a tad tighter. So i did some reading and thats quite normal to have a bit of runout in them. After some running i guess they can flex back into shape so to speak. Yours must have been pretty bad?
I am debating of replacing mine, i have to do my transom. Ive read theyre usually never replaced unless running with the alignment being so far out wears them out. Any recommendations guys? I'll likely keep my old one until i have to redo the engine

A little tighter is probably okay - I think I've read every topic on the Internet about this... But in my case I did an alignment, we could not get spline marks all the way around the tool, but after 3rs we gave up. The tool was going in smooth as butter, basically 1 finger I could push and pull it out with no effort. So we put the drive back on (original upper & brand new SEI lower).

I still had the growling sound - which I've read is the gimbal bearing, but it felt smooth with no play.

So I pulled the drive again, I could BARELY get the alignment tool in, it required a ton of force. Figuring something had changed since my last alignment, I put tape on the harmonic balancer and rotated the engine by blipping the throttle 1/4 turn at a time. 3/4" of a turn later the tool went it smooooooooooth. Only 1 thing it could be, the coupler.

When pulling the engine the starboard rear mount was completely shot (sitting the fiber washer). So I suspect this permanently crooked the coupler.

Ben