smokeonthewater
Fleet Admiral
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 9,838
Sooo since this subject comes up so often I took a few pictures today when I swapped my new trailer under my boat.
I didn't remove the engine. I didn't measure anything or build anything. I didn't break a sweat. At no time was my boat or any person in any danger at all.
First step... I used a 2" ratchet strap but a rope (at least 1/2") or chain will work just fine. I anchored the stern to my bobcat but a car, tree, maybe even a boat anchor in the ground will work.
Next I pulled the trailer ahead 2 feet with my jeep and set two tires (on rims) under the stern.... Not always needed but I wanted to show how it would work for those who can't trim their drive or engine higher than the keel.... a 12" gap between the tires would make it more stable but I wanted to be able to lean the boat if desired.
Next, I pulled the trailer ahead until the stern was resting on the tires and the bow was a couple feet from coming off the trailer and I tossed a chunk of firewood under the keel
Finally I pulled ahead slowly watching the bow gently roll off of the last keel roller
Nothing dropped, Nothing was ever out of control and there was no danger whatsoever to people or equipment.
Loading is simply reverse of the above with the use of the winch strap.... If you blocked the stern then leave the transom tied off so the boat isn't pulled off of the blocks..... leave the tow vehicle in neutral or unhook the trailer from the tow vehicle (tongue will raise at first) and crank the trailer under the boat.... you will likely have to steer the trailer so that the boat loads straight. If you unhooked the tow vehicle you will want to push the tongue back down to the ground when you can easily do so. That way it won't slam down when the boat gets far enough to get positive tongue weight. The entire off and on process took me about 30 minutes and that included parking the first trailer, hitching the second and unbolting/adjusting the winch stand and tongue jack on the new trailer to fit the boat.
While the boat is off the trailer you can spray the bunks with silicone lubricant and make it easier too load the boat back on but BEWARE with the silicone your boat will launch and load MUCH easier so make sure you don't unhook the winch strap before backing down the ramp..... You'll LOVE it but don't say I didn't warn ya.
I didn't remove the engine. I didn't measure anything or build anything. I didn't break a sweat. At no time was my boat or any person in any danger at all.
First step... I used a 2" ratchet strap but a rope (at least 1/2") or chain will work just fine. I anchored the stern to my bobcat but a car, tree, maybe even a boat anchor in the ground will work.
Next I pulled the trailer ahead 2 feet with my jeep and set two tires (on rims) under the stern.... Not always needed but I wanted to show how it would work for those who can't trim their drive or engine higher than the keel.... a 12" gap between the tires would make it more stable but I wanted to be able to lean the boat if desired.
Next, I pulled the trailer ahead until the stern was resting on the tires and the bow was a couple feet from coming off the trailer and I tossed a chunk of firewood under the keel
Finally I pulled ahead slowly watching the bow gently roll off of the last keel roller
Nothing dropped, Nothing was ever out of control and there was no danger whatsoever to people or equipment.
Loading is simply reverse of the above with the use of the winch strap.... If you blocked the stern then leave the transom tied off so the boat isn't pulled off of the blocks..... leave the tow vehicle in neutral or unhook the trailer from the tow vehicle (tongue will raise at first) and crank the trailer under the boat.... you will likely have to steer the trailer so that the boat loads straight. If you unhooked the tow vehicle you will want to push the tongue back down to the ground when you can easily do so. That way it won't slam down when the boat gets far enough to get positive tongue weight. The entire off and on process took me about 30 minutes and that included parking the first trailer, hitching the second and unbolting/adjusting the winch stand and tongue jack on the new trailer to fit the boat.
While the boat is off the trailer you can spray the bunks with silicone lubricant and make it easier too load the boat back on but BEWARE with the silicone your boat will launch and load MUCH easier so make sure you don't unhook the winch strap before backing down the ramp..... You'll LOVE it but don't say I didn't warn ya.
