Guys, before I fire up my rebuild is there a way to verify that I've got water flow through each cylinder? Can I use the flushing port at the bottom of the lower unit, connect garden hose and then remove each hose from the bottom of each head that goes to the thermostat housing? I should see water flow thru each hose or does the water pump need to be turning? If they both show flow and I re-connect the hoses and pressure up I should see water exiting the bottom of the lower unit as well indicating that the bypass path is clear too? The t-stats have been replaced.
The OMC manual says on initial break in for the first 10 minutes run the engine at fast idle. Is this to create higher water flow/pressure to fill engine with cooling water because at idle it might not be sufficient? I've verified the high temp sensors on each head and they are working along with the audio alarm circuits. I've got an infared gun to watch temps once it's running.
Just crossing my T's and dotting my I's before I cook and brand new rebuild.
The OMC manual says on initial break in for the first 10 minutes run the engine at fast idle. Is this to create higher water flow/pressure to fill engine with cooling water because at idle it might not be sufficient? I've verified the high temp sensors on each head and they are working along with the audio alarm circuits. I've got an infared gun to watch temps once it's running.
Just crossing my T's and dotting my I's before I cook and brand new rebuild.