Hull Painting...

[scottvs]

Want to repaint my hull on an older Tuffy Bass boat. Minor glass repairs needed which I am good at (Former NHRA racer/mechanic, fixed way too much glass in my days!) The problem is what I know about painting and a dollar will get you a cup of coffee.<br /><br />The boat only is used in fresh water. Tri-Hull is structurely sound and only has minor scrapes and scratches. The problem is a lot of them. Is there a primer to be used first on fiberglass? What marine paint should I be using? Can it be applied with a brush? Is there a top coat to be used? How much must be sanded off first, in other words, down to the glass? It looks to have been repainted a couple of times with other removing the old paint. I plan on keeping it simple. <br /><br />Is there a special paint to use on fiberglass decking also? Repainting the flat deck is planned and not sure if I can use the same paint as on the hull.<br /><br />I work for a Ford Dealer (Business Manager)and can bribe the bodyshop to spray for me if it is needed. Just I enjoy working on the boat myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[paintermn]

Re: Hull Painting...

Scott, I'm not a boat painter, but let me tell you the things I think apply to any good paint job.<br /><br />Preparation of the surface to be painted is the key. It is important to remove any contaminates (salt, oil, wax, ect.) So clean it first. Then sand, using progressively finer paper until the surface is uniform and smooth.<br /><br />I would always use a primer as a first coat.<br /><br /> Actually, let me say that painting a boat is alot like painting a car. You just use different primers and paints. If you have a body shop and have the ability to spray, you will get a better job than rolling. I'm sure that you would never repaint your car with a brush or roller.<br /><br />I can't really speak to what kind of paint you should use, but I'm sure that your local boat supply store or someone here can help with that.<br /><br />Sand---Sand---Sand---Sand---<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[mworthan]

Re: Hull Painting...

Scott,<br /> There are several ways to go, and a lot has to do with equipment (especially respirator equipment). If this is a trailer boat and you want a shiny "car-like" finish then there are two main types of paint to use and the difference is pretty dramatic.<br /> The first type is your basic one part enamel. It can be brushed or sprayed (although it will be prone to run) and doesn't require any specialized breathing equipment. Where it lacks though is in hardness,gloss retention and dry time (imagine high gloss house paint). Why is dry time important? Well if painting outdoors or indoors if conditions aren't perfect, the longer the paint is wet the more opportunity for dust and debris to stick.<br /> The other type of paint is a two part urethane paint. This paint has a catalyst or hardener that chemically crosslink to form a tough, glossy finish. This is the finish used by automotive manufacturers because of durability and appearance. PPG's Concept, Rustoleum Rust-o-thane, HOK's Shimrin are all paints I have used. This paint works better sprayed and dries very fast. The hardener contains compounds known as Isocyanates and are very dangerous. The operator in my opinion must use a supplied air resirator as there are no organic cartridges rated to filter out iso's.<br /> As far as a good paint job, it's all prep work so it sounds like you have that covered. Just remember to use epoxy fillers and resins and stay away from those hygroscopic polyester resins. Polyester won't stick good enough for repairs. Microballons, silica and epoxy will take care of all your repair and fairing needs. Check this link's forum ( www.autobodystore.com ) for some great discussion and resources specific to painting (most everything here will apply to boat painting as well). Good luck and let me know if I can of any help.

 

[ratherbefishin]

Re: Hull Painting...

The toughest[ and most critical] part of any repainting job is surface preparation.Mostly that is the reason the task is deferred[I'd ''ratherbefishin'']and a walk around any marina proves that.<br /> Sanding is the traditional way to go, and chemical stripping generally involves nasty stuff that burns your skin, has bad fumes, and may not even be allowed in some areas.<br /> The solution to this is the new generation water based paint strippers - non toxic, no fumes,and doesn't burn skin .Removes lead paints, bottom paints and even two part epoxies[ they use it on aircraft]It takes a little longer to work[generally overnight]and it is temperature sensitive[ doesn't work in freezing cold]But the advantages clearly outweigh the minor disadvantages.The original test work was done at Canoe Cove marina, on the west coast, where it was developed for stripping copper anti fouling paint[ sanding produced toxic dust]They needed something that solved their problem, but didn't damage the gel coat.<br /> You can get it from ICI [HydroStrip],PP& G is starting to carry it, and M A Bruder is also starting to stock it or check out the website of the manufacturor www.napierenvironmental.com

 

[airman]

Re: Hull Painting...

Interlux (and others but I've used interlux with success) has a really good pamphlet that describes their paints and what prep/primers etc to use.