Re: Hull up restoration
well to prevent starting a war i say resin which includes; epoxy, polyester, and vinylester. I am a fan of epoxy, but it does cost more and alot of people say you can use just polyester. US composites is the most referenced place on this site. Also US composites has a nice information section on what the product can be used for along with cure times. Make sure you do not get the bondo stuff from Walmart because it is not in the same class.
Plywood is another debate, there is marine plywood, ac grade exterior plywood, pressure treated plywood (stuff you get at lowes and home depot that is soaked with water), and KD or kiln dried pressure treated plywood (dried to 18% moisture content, glass will not stick to wet wood which is why pressure treated often fails). I used the KD, but it is a little harder to find. If you don't want to use wood you can also use bluewater 26, which is a fiberglass composite board. MUCH more expensive, but it will never rot. Make sure you try and put back the same thickness that you had.
3M 5200 is basically a marine adhesive that also provides waterproof protection. It is messy stuff to work with though. I prefer to epoxy the holes, but as you will find out from searching there are atlest five options to solve the same problem.
The deck is not as bad as a stringer depending on the layout. If the stringers are good I would start by making cardboard layouts of the deck so you do not mess up a cut on the plywood. Once you get the plywood cut dry fit to make sure everything goes together. Once you do that you have a few options. 1) if you have crossframes (wood frame that sits perpendicular and on top of the stringer, i would screw the plywood in to that. 2) if you don't I would put a little adhesive ontop of the stringer, sit the plywood down, and then put strips of fiberglass that run on both the boat side and down on the deck. If you have any seams I would mix some epoxy and silica to a peanut butter viscosity and put it in the seams, although there are some specific marine products that will do the same thing. For myself I would put a layer of fiberglass on top to connect all the pieces. From here you can put vinyl, carpet (don't recommend because of moisture), or if you have done a good job glassing just put some non-skid paint down with primer.
I am sure you will get other people commenting on the way to go and remember my way may not work in your situation. I am still learning about different ways so get a few comments before proceeding.
A few words of caution. Do not screw into the stringer because water will find its way in. That is why the crossframes are the first thing to rot out. Next, buy a really good respirator because fiberglass dust is nothing to play with. Resin will start turning into a gel if you are in a colder climate around 20-30 minutes, so make sure you are ready to go with everything.
