hydraulic lines on tilt tril

[bman1bpm]

I'm going to look at a used but rebuilt tilt/trim motor for my 79 chrysler I wanted to know what size the fittings for the hyd. lines are on the valve body, I'd like to bring a bolt or a plug or something to screw into them to make sure they're not stripped.

Its a unit that was rebuilt(motor and valve body) by ARCO "a couple years ago" I'm pretty sure its worth the $75 hes asking

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

Well, the lines are 1/8 inch but I don't know if hydraulic fittings are NP. If they are, they will be 1/8 National Pipe (not tapered)

You would need to find a brake line fitting in Pep Boys or other auto store to test.

BUT if they are cross-threaded, dicked-up, or stripped, you should be able to eyeball them.

 

[RRitt]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

hydraulic fittings are standard 3/16" inverted flare. same thing used on car brakes. Just go to NAPA and buy a 3/16" brake fitting. I think the specific thread is 3/8 - 24.

ARCO makes pretty good stuff. Just make sure it is the right size reservoir (tall versus short). Wrong size reservoirs are the most common reason I see for stripped threads on pre-1987 pumps. If it is a taller reservoir then it will work but you must be extra careful attaching oil tubes. The stainless tubing is harder than the aluminum pump and it will eat out the threads before flexing into position.

The other thing to look out for is cable entrance. Some third party motors have a cable entrance directly on top of motor. On a Force, the motor is fully exposed. Since aftermarket motors aren't painted on the inside this type of motor usually won't last as long.

A properly rebuilt valve body is good for 20 years. If the valve body had a professional rebuild recently then $75 is a bargain. If valve body not rebuilt then $75 is fair price for fair condition.

 

[bman1bpm]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

Ok heres what I got (the black one), and what I currently have. My old one is the short resevoir. The current pump works(supprisingly with all that rust right?), the motor just sinks down. Should I just swap the valve bodies or use the new one as is and be careful when attaching the lines?

 

[RRitt]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

get some phosphoric acid from home depot and take care of those shock-eyes while you're working on trim.

Easiest way to do lines without stripping threads ....
take the two upper lines loose from rams and two lower lines loose from pump. Then remove old pump from boat. Put pump in bench vice and remove the two oil tubes. Put two oil tubes onto new pump but don't tighten all the way. Put pump on boat. Use pliers and compact tube bender to line up two upper fittings and install - but don't fully tighten. Bend lower tubes so that tubes line up with pump. It is important that tubes line up well enough that you can finger tighten tube nuts. Once all four tubes are attached then tighten on up. Top off reservoir, cycle system a few times, and you are done.

By the way -
Some valve bodies have a non-serviceable check valve. They last longer but the check valve can't be fixed. It has to be replaced. Looking at your pics, I notice a rubber boot on the top of your tilt ram. So I'm not surprised that it still works. There's no telling how much longer your pump will last before it starts bleeding down ... anywhere from ten days to ten years. You're still better off with the one in your hand. When it starts bleeding down then it can be fixed without needing NLA parts.

 

[RRitt]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

I have some people who need their trim pumps repaired but have damaged parts. One guy needs reservoir. Another guy has a cracked valve body. I will charge each of them $35 for the parts but don't have anymore reservoirs left in parts bins and may not have an old style valve body casting. Would you be interested in selling your old pump for parts? Please PM.


BTW - It isn't valve body that determines correct oil lines to use. It is the motor. They changed position of the reservoir mounting bracket and that causes the valve body to sit lower on engine. The reservoir is part of the motor. You can't put short reservoir on 2w motor and you can't put tall reservoir on 3w. If you can rewire switch or add relays to make the 2w work you're still better off with the black one. Whether it works or not it is repairable so that you won't ever need to go hunting for another core.

 

[bman1bpm]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

The current pump already does bleed down, thats why I got the replacement.
The black pump has a 3 wire connection (2 hot and a ground)

 

[RRitt]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

If both motors are 3w then there isn't clear cut superiority of motors. The prestolite has better parts supply but the aftermarket is newer with significantly less rust. I would favor the one with the least amount of internal rust (external rust doesn't matte).

The pump will be trickier to pick. If you have a 2500psi pressure gauge then simply measure the output and make sure that the pressure doesn't bleed off after the motor stops spinning. If not then just install it and see what happens.

If both pumps bleed off then pick the one with taller internal posts. It is less likely to have the non-fixable check valves. Having the style of check valve that can be reliably fixed will save you $25 to $100 off cost of repairs.

 

[bman1bpm]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

I'm hoping that my new pump won't bleed down, he said he only used it about a year before the powerhead on his 115 chrysler blew. Said its been sitting in the garage since. But you know how buying used parts goes haha

 

[RRitt]

Re: hydraulic lines on tilt tril

Number of hours used has almost nothing to do with lifespan. It is strictly a matter of age and what brand of oil was used for fluid. The ideal fluid is ISO32 but it is too thin for many trim systems and causes bucking. ATF and HD motor oil are like the plague.