Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for help

SigSaurP229

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Oct 1, 2008
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I have not had a chance to do the electric trouble shooting on the top side of the motor.

Right now the lower unit is sitting in pieces. Lower has not shifted out of forward gear since I have had it. (it is stuck in default forward).

The first time I took it out I got a HUGE surprise and now know why these motors are dock crashers. GRRR got a nice scuff mark to prove it. Took it home assumed the switch in the controls was bad replaced it with a known good one sold to me by a member from Iboats, and changed the lower unit oil. It was white not a good sign but neither the drain or vent screws had washers. So I got new washers new Premium blend lower unit oil change.

No luck still stuck in forward (by default). Oil is white like a vanilla milkshake again.

So I know the first thing I need to do is track down the water leak. I am currently changing propshaft seal driveshaft seal and the solenoid gasket also again new washers on the drain and vent screws. Also new water pump impeller.

In this process I discovered this is MOST likely not the original lower unit as the propshaft seals that I ordered do not fit the bearing carrier. I took it to my local dealer and what should have been the correct propshaft seal (the same part number as I ordered) did not fit either the the outside diameter was much to large and the inside diameter was WAY to large for the propshaft. Also looking at the schematics

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/EVINRUDE/1972/65272S 1972/GEARCASE/parts.html

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/EVINRUDE/1970/60072B 1970/GEARCASE GROUP/parts.html

My Bearing carrier looks MUCH closer to the 2nd link listed. I am kind of shooting blind here but I BELIEVE that the lower has been swapped with one from an earlier motor. The 1970 looks like a 60 hp version. I don't want to trash the whole thing because of this but are these two compatible. When stuck in forward it planed my boat in about 2 seconds flat and was running about 34 mph easily down the lake.

In the process of tearing things apart I decided that I would also try a few things as well.

The first thing I noticed when tearing the whole thing apart was that part number 49 above the top solenoid was missing all together (the wave washer that sits on top of the upper solenoid).

Also when I removed the solenoids I BELIEVE they were testing at about 8 OHMS but I have a VERY crappy cheap tester. I do know for sure that when I put them in a vice I could ground my battery and put a direct ground to the body of the solenoid then put the hot side of my 12 volt battery to the green wire and it would push the shift rod and hold it until I removed the 12 volt hot. Then I could put the 12v hot onto both wires and both solenoids would click and push the shift rod out and hold it until I removed the 12v hot.

My question is this would water intrusion cause the system to not build the pressure needed to shift?

Would the missing wave washer cause a no shift?

After running the test and knowing that both solenoids will function does this do anything about eliminating the solenoids being the problem?
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

A slight bit of water would not interfere with the shifting. The straight electric shift switch closely resembles the hydro electric shift switch.... possible you have the wrong switch?

The wave washer is needed.

(Switch Terminals Continuity)

Frw Gear = No continuity between "+" (12v) terminal and "frw" (green wire) or "rev" terminal (blue wire).

Neutral = No continuity between "+" (12v) and "rev" terminal (blue wire)....... Continuity between "+" (12v) terminal and "frw" terminal (green wire)

Reverse = Continuity between "+" (12v) and both the "rev" terminal (blue wire) and the "frw" terminal (green wire).
 

F_R

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28,226
Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

Without the wave washer, the solenoids would simply rise up in the cavity instead of pushing the rod down to hold the flow control valves shut. If the valves are not held down, it will be in forward.
 

budnate

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Oct 23, 2010
Messages
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Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

Sig, what motor you working on? I have a cherry lower from a 71 60hp OMC in Seattle
 

SigSaurP229

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Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
2,123
Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

A slight bit of water would not interfere with the shifting. The straight electric shift switch closely resembles the hydro electric shift switch.... possible you have the wrong switch?

The wave washer is needed.

(Switch Terminals Continuity)

Frw Gear = No continuity between "+" (12v) terminal and "frw" (green wire) or "rev" terminal (blue wire).

Neutral = No continuity between "+" (12v) and "rev" terminal (blue wire)....... Continuity between "+" (12v) terminal and "frw" terminal (green wire)

Reverse = Continuity between "+" (12v) and both the "rev" terminal (blue wire) and the "frw" terminal (green wire).

Joe I have the correct switch for sure. I have the 5 pole switch (two of them actually).


should have mentioned
1972 Evinrude 65 hp

65272s


So it is very likely that the missing wave washer could cause a no shift. My next step since finding water in the foot was working back from the foot. I am having a hard time getting the correct prop shaft seal since I am not sure what year the lower unit it. It looks as if 69 had a single solenoid 1970 had dual which is my set up.

My next step once I am able to reinstall the lower unit. Is to remove the plugs crank the motor jump a hot wire from the battery to the green wire to see if I can get neutral after the reseal and new wave washer.

I have ordered a new wave washer already. I really don't want to scrap the motor.

I have a 2nd 1969 Johnson hydro electric I can use for parts but I don't think they are compatible.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

All of the Hydro Electric Shift units incorporated dual solenoids. Good luck with the wave washer, hopefully it cures your problem.
 

SigSaurP229

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Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

All of the Hydro Electric Shift units incorporated dual solenoids. Good luck with the wave washer, hopefully it cures your problem.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1969/55ES69C 1969/GEARCASE GROUP/parts.html

This is the schematics for the 2nd motor I have. It is stamped Hydro Electric drive on the cowling but is a little older (1970) I don't think it is a pure Electric shift but I could be wrong. But the schematics on this look different than the other.

Also while it was sitting after pulling the driveshaft bearing housing retainer and the solenoids I have had it soaking in Diesel fuel for about a week, to see if I can free up any debris or anything that may be lodged in the pumps. Will it help i don't know but the lower unit is useless right now anyways so it can't hurt it any more.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

This one http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BR...OUP/parts.html looks like the original (1st) 1968 55hp hydro electric shift unit. Notice the carrier that has the wrap around portion on it, this area of aluminum would practically weld itself (actually corrosion) to the lower unit making it next to impossibe to remove. Also notice that the driveshaft is lacking the sprial design that would lift the gearlube to the upper driveshaft bearing.

And this one http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BR...ASE/parts.html would be the later model with improvements. Notice the re-designed carrier assembly and the sprial gearlube lifting improvement of the driveshaft. There was also some changes/improvements in the oil pump and solenoids but I don't remember exactly what those were.

The hydro electric shift system existed from 1968 thru 1972 on the 3 & 4 cylinder models, all of which incorporated dual solenoids.
 

SigSaurP229

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Oct 1, 2008
Messages
2,123
Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

This one http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BR...OUP/parts.html looks like the original (1st) 1968 55hp hydro electric shift unit. Notice the carrier that has the wrap around portion on it, this area of aluminum would practically weld itself (actually corrosion) to the lower unit making it next to impossibe to remove. Also notice that the driveshaft is lacking the sprial design that would lift the gearlube to the upper driveshaft bearing.

And this one http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BR...ASE/parts.html would be the later model with improvements. Notice the re-designed carrier assembly and the sprial gearlube lifting improvement of the driveshaft. There was also some changes/improvements in the oil pump and solenoids but I don't remember exactly what those were.

The hydro electric shift system existed from 1968 thru 1972 on the 3 & 4 cylinder models, all of which incorporated dual solenoids.

Thank you so much for clearing it up Joe the one that I am working DEFINITELY has the old carrier on it it had basically sealed it self to the housing with carbon and exhaust let off.
 

Bigmykesboat

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May 10, 2012
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Re: Hydro Electric no shift. HELP me trouble shoot. LONG explanation but hoping for

Oh my that is my proublem im missing the wave washer !!!!!!!! Thank you fr for your post!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you iboats for this forum!!
 
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