hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

craigvalk

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Jul 23, 2003
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73
Well I am at my wits end with this one.<br />I have a 71 Johnson 60, hydroelectric shift. The lower unit blew, forward gear stripped out and took the pinion gear with it. Prior to this it had no shifting problems, electrically.<br /> I obtained a used lower unit, from a 68 Evinrude Triumph, which was a short shaft. I took the long shaft from my blown unit and swapped it over. Gears and clutch dog looked good so I went with em....Before doing any work, I metered out the solenoids, and both were within the 5-7 ohm spec... no problem right? Wrong....<br />Installed the new unit, fired it up, pumping water, forward gear only, no neutral no reverse...ok we got a shift mechanism problem here.<br />Remove unit, remove solenoids, looks like a hack job, the blue wire had been pinched and crushed on a previous repair, and when I removed the entire assembly, I found the shift rod bent badly, and someone had done a hack repair on it.<br />Moreover, these solenoids were different than the ones in the original unit. <br />On the 68 Evinrude unit, the bad solenoids are installed with a series of springs below and between them. There is no external shift rod casing as in my 71, there was simply a narrow shift rod extending through both solenoids. and at the bottom the arrangement is also differnt, instead of the narrow rod that indexes in to the pump, there is a nylon socket, with a plunger with a ball on the end.. This nylon socket was JB welded on to the shift rod, so clearly someone hacked it. this plunger appears to be inserted in to the pump. <br /><br />So... long story I know..... can one of you OMC experts tell me if this is the correct arrangment on this lower end? I was surprised since my Seloc manual makes no mention of one of these units having a different solenoid/shift rod arrangment than the one I have. Is this spring loaded set up standard? More importantly, can my good solenoids from my 71 unit be used in place of the setup on the 68 unit? I rather suspect not, since the hole in which you insert the shift rod appears different, making me think the pump is different too and will be a no go. <br />I guess the good news is I got forward gear now...trying to look at the bright side. <br />And, I suppose I should ask if I need to pull the pump out of the bad unit, check it out, and use that with my good solenoids?<br /><br />Tearing my hair out on this one.... <br /><br />Thank you<br />Craig
 

OBJ

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 27, 2002
Messages
10,161
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Sorry to hear about all the trouble Craig.<br /><br />First...if the lower unit has a shift rod extending from it, it's not an electric shift and not a 68'. What you've probably got is a lower unit, 73' or later with a shift assist cylinders. Any wires coming from them? This means that the lower unit will not work for your particular application.<br /><br />If I read your info wrong, please let me know....Thanks.
 

craigvalk

Seaman
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Jul 23, 2003
Messages
73
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Thanks OBJ... sorry to be less than clear. It's absolutely what I described. The shift rod I refer to is the one contained inside the solenoids. Runs right through the center of them down in to the pump.<br />It's the solenoids along with that spring/rod set up that I described that threw me off.<br /><br />Craig
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
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Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

The 1968 hydro-electric shifts used a "spool valve" that went down into the pump housing to select the oil flow for shifting when either one or both solenoids were energized. It is set up as Craigvalt described. There were problems with the steel valve sticking or hanging up inside the aluminum pump housing. In '69 it was changed to steel balls held down by a lever to open or close 2 holes (or ports) in the pump housing. <br /><br />Both units used 2 solenoids to activate the spool valve or press on the lever and balls. They are not interchangable.<br /><br />I'm not sure if the '69 gearcase is machined the same for the solenoids from a '68 unit. It will be trial and hopefully not error, to find out.<br /><br />Also note that the large snap ring that retains the pump housing is beveled, not flat like the aft gearcase rings. The bevel faced aft to keep tension on the pump housing. <br /><br />Good luck, Craig, and let us know what happens.
 

craigvalk

Seaman
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Jul 23, 2003
Messages
73
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Thanks Seahorse. The good news is I am not losing my mind in my observations. I think you are correct about the gearcases being machined differently also, there were subtle differences between the 68 unit and my 71 unit that I disassembled. I had them side by side and noted that. As far as you know, sir, are the gearcases from 69-71 the same? I am surmising they are.<br />Would you agree that my options are: <br /><br />1. I need to find a set of solenoids for a 68 unit, and those might be difficult to get.<br /><br />2. I can transplant the gearset / shafts from the 68 unit to a 69 or later unit, as long as I retain the pump assembly in the 69 or later unit.<br />This would allow me to use the more standard solenoid set. <br /><br />Darn, I am bummed that the Seloc manual made no mention that the 68 lower unit had this odd solenoid!! Oh well, no crying over spilt milk, I'll move forward and solve this!<br /><br />Thanks <br /><br />Craig
 

Namcali

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Jun 3, 2004
Messages
53
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Craig:<br /><br />I don't think I can help; but I like your attitude towards solving problem.<br /><br />I have a '62 and just rebuit the lower unit two weeks ago. I haven't had a chance to drop it down the river yet; however, I hope it works. Mine is purely electric shift. <br /><br />Please keep us posted.<br /><br />Nam
 

craigvalk

Seaman
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Jul 23, 2003
Messages
73
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Thanks Nam! I hate having the boat down but the truth is it is fun working on them, I think getting mad just wastes energy.. ya do the best you can, learn from your mistakes, and fix the darn thing!!<br /><br />Will keep you all posted.. but it will be after next weekend since the boat is up my summer place and I am not!!!
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
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Jan 24, 2002
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4,698
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Craig,<br /><br />Again you are straining my old worn out brain asking about the gearcases. I haven't worked on one of those is almost 15 years.<br /><br />The 1968 pinion gear had the thrust bearing and washer above the pinion and that bearing "rode" on the upper face of the pinion. Later years they changed the bearing system, but I can't recall when. That may be the differences between early and later gears and gearcases. You'll be on a trial and error journey.
 

DHPMARINE

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Dec 16, 2003
Messages
3,688
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Craig you're straining my brain too.A lot of those older units were always in forward gear until running.What pulled them into neutral when started was a vacuum switch on the engine.It is located on the starboard side,back from the carbs,but ahead of the throttle arm,that opens the carbs as well as advances the timerbase.<br />Look for a round back disc,about 2 inch diameter<br />(rubber).It has to have no cracks,and the metal disc inside it has to make contact with two contacts inside the switch.<br />DHP
 

DHPMARINE

Captain
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Dec 16, 2003
Messages
3,688
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Forgot to add part #314237<br />DHP
 

craigvalk

Seaman
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Jul 23, 2003
Messages
73
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Hi DHP and thank you. I know what you are referring to... the V4 engines use the vacuum switch.. however the 3 cyl ones do not, and that's what I got.<br /><br />Appreciate the input and have a great day!<br /><br />Craig
 

craigvalk

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2003
Messages
73
Re: hydroelectric shift rebuild, help! Johnson 60

Just an update to all..... success!<br />I finally pieced together a working unit, and it works fantastic. All I gotta do is replace a questionable ( not leaking, but had fishing line jammed around it) prop shaft seal, and I am finally done.<br /><br />Thank you all!!!<br /><br />Craig
 
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