I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

[Kris.J]

Other than my 8-foot inflatable one-man fishing pontoon, this is my first boat!
I'm 42 and have lived in Michigan all my life - about damn time I own a real boat right?

It's a 12' Sea Nymph, with a trailer of indeterminate origin.
Here are the pics:
https://plus.google.com/photos/1067...ms/5774683167340810353?authkey=CMOareazjsSuHQ

It is a bit of a fixer-upper, but I think it will work out nice for fishing inland lakes.
On the inside of the stern is engraved a serial number and the words "7 1/2 HP MAX".
I'm going to put my 5HP Johnson TN-28 on it: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=571909

I know what I need to do to get the stern and the prow welded - I've lined up a guy with a TIG who does nice aluminum work. All I have to do is dig out all that spray foam stuff that looks like dog poop, remove the old transom wood, & get everything wire-wheeled down nice & clean. I'll probably take a block & hammer to the prow a bit too in order to try to straighten out the damaged area before he welds up that crack.

My questions are about rebuilding the transom:

1. Can I use pressure-treated (Wolmanized) plywood from like Lowe's/Menard's/Home Depot? Seems like marine plywood is WAAAY more expensive.

2. Can I extend that wood all the way across, inside and out? I'm thinking this would allow me plenty of wood for mounting accessories like my Minn-Kota electric, fish finder, fuse panel, maybe some light switches, etc.

3. How would I go about some sort of anti-theft lock or something after I clamp that TN-28 to the back of this boat? I guess when I'm not on a trip, the motor would be removed and put in the garage on a stand - but I'm thinking if I'm enroute to or from a lake, make a stop in a store, etc.

Thanks!

-Kris

 

[scipper77]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

I have a very similar setup to yours (12 footer with a 5.5 Evinrude). 5 horse will push it pretty well. 7.5 should get it on plane. I want a 10 horse for mine. I recommend putting some ballast like a 50# sandbag in the tip of the bow if you go out alone. It makes the boat much more stable. Pushing the bow down will raise the stern up.

As for wood, I would just go with regular old, non pressure treated plywood and coat it with epoxy or even just paint. Even with a poor job I bet you get at least 10 years out of it. My wood goes the width of the transom on the inside only. I have an electric trolling motor mounted on the port side with no issues. I put a battery box in the tip of the bow and ran the wires in PVC conduit along the port side so the wires would be protected from things like the anchor dropping on them.

I can take pictures for you if you would like to see my humble setup to help you plan yours.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Hey Kris... welcome to iboats. Lots of helpful metal boat guys (and many Sea Nymph owners) here at the dry dock (restoration section).

You should be able to fix this boat up pretty quickly... That being said, I'd be a little concerned about the keel damage. It looks the boat took a pretty good hit to the keel and rather than try and fix the aluminum, it looks like they just plugged the leak with some foam in the bow area where the keel damage is..

I have never done extensive metal boat work, but would ask around about the best way to repair that... I would say the leaving it "as is" would not be an iboats "best practice."

Someone will probably stop by shortly to give you some better guidance on that....

Sorry to identify a problem without giving you a solution, but just wanted to throw that out there..

Glad you got the boat and best of luck....

 

[Kris.J]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Hey Kris... welcome to iboats.
It looks the boat took a pretty good hit to the keel and rather than try and fix the aluminum, it looks like they just plugged the leak with some foam in the bow area where the keel damage is..

I have never done extensive metal boat work, but would ask around about the best way to repair that... I would say the leaving it "as is" would not be an iboats "best practice."

Thanks!

Yah, I'll be getting every crack properly TIG welded - once I dig out all the crap someone pookied it up with!

 

[Kris.J]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

I have a very similar setup to yours (12 footer with a 5.5 Evinrude). 5 horse will push it pretty well. 7.5 should get it on plane. I want a 10 horse for mine. I recommend putting some ballast like a 50# sandbag in the tip of the bow if you go out alone. It makes the boat much more stable. Pushing the bow down will raise the stern up.

As for wood, I would just go with regular old, non pressure treated plywood and coat it with epoxy or even just paint. Even with a poor job I bet you get at least 10 years out of it. My wood goes the width of the transom on the inside only. I have an electric trolling motor mounted on the port side with no issues. I put a battery box in the tip of the bow and ran the wires in PVC conduit along the port side so the wires would be protected from things like the anchor dropping on them.

I can take pictures for you if you would like to see my humble setup to help you plan yours.

Cool!
Sounds like my trolling motor battery would fit the bill for ballast if I install it up front eh?

After looking at my pictures again, I think I'll do my wood in three sections - center, port, starboard. The port and starboard panels will fit those contoured areas better than just a single board all the way across.

Yes I would love to see some pictures of your setup, thanks!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD!

Never, Never, Never, Ever use PT Plywood in an aluminum boat. It will eat the aluminum. Use Ext. Grade Fir Plywood epoxy coat, or marine varnish, or Oil Base paint to protect it. Always predrill holes and seal them with either epoxy or 3M 4200 Marine Sealant when mounting things to the transom. If you do this it will last a long time

 

[colbyt]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

.. What I know about boats would fit in the space between the two periods at the beginning of the line.

What I know about metal and aluminum in particular is they don't play well with pressure treated lumber. The chemicals tend to eat the metal after a bit of time.

You can go the epoxy route mentioned above or you can sand and seal with spar varnish or oil based paint. The better the finish and grade of paint the longer it will last.

 

[Kris.J]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Got it, no pressure treated wood.

I got it all cleaned up tonight, I am ready for the welder:

https://plus.google.com/photos/1067...s/5776685467728954161?authkey=CP7zxbyZ1pSbhwE

 

[Kris.J]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Wow, bucking rivets appears easy! I just read up on it and watched a few videos on Youtube.
I'm concerned about that riveted stern seam all the way around - I'll just re-buck all those rivets before I get it in the water and see how she does.

I'm now confident I can rivet anything I need to on this boat. IN FACT - the places where people have screwed on accessories like little cleats, etc. with cheap screws that are all now rusted... I'll strip that stuff, clean it up, and re-attach with aluminum rivets.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Closed end blind rivets makes boat riveting easy, and a one man job.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related

Great way to replace leaky rivets and fill screw holes.

 

[Kris.J]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Closed end blind rivets makes boat riveting easy, and a one man job.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related

Great way to replace leaky rivets and fill screw holes.

NICE! Thanks for the link!

 

[scipper77]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Looking at those pics of the transom it looks like "they" tried to raise the transom by about an inch by welding in a piece of metal in the center section. This makes sense if that boat is the same as mine. I have noticed that the anti-cavitation plate on my outboard is an inch or 2 lower than it should be. Raising it an inch or 2 should improve performance (if the shoddy welds didn't destroy the transom area).

When trailering that area could very well break free again from the weight of the outboard dangling off the back. I use bungee chords to keep the motor straight and relieve some stress from the transom (I'll attach some pics later in the day).

While I'm on trailering, I'm sure you are going to go through the trailer as there are no functioning lights but I would definitely do the following there.

- repack the bearings

- replace that coupler. I laughed when I noticed that there is a ball on the coupler still. I assume that means the coupler doesn't work.

- rewire...., duh

- get those rollers freed up

- Put a new cable on the winch and make sure that the little ratcheting lock on the winch works. Cable, not rope, you have enough to worry about with that trailer already.

- You will want a good lashing strap around the back of the boat to tie it to the trailer, or ratchet straps on both sides.

 

[Kris.J]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Looking at those pics of the transom it looks like "they" tried to raise the transom by about an inch by welding in a piece of metal in the center section. This makes sense if that boat is the same as mine. I have noticed that the anti-cavitation plate on my outboard is an inch or 2 lower than it should be. Raising it an inch or 2 should improve performance (if the shoddy welds didn't destroy the transom area).

When trailering that area could very well break free again from the weight of the outboard dangling off the back. I use bungee chords to keep the motor straight and relieve some stress from the transom (I'll attach some pics later in the day).

While I'm on trailering, I'm sure you are going to go through the trailer as there are no functioning lights but I would definitely do the following there.

- repack the bearings

- replace that coupler. I laughed when I noticed that there is a ball on the coupler still. I assume that means the coupler doesn't work.

- rewire...., duh

- get those rollers freed up

- Put a new cable on the winch and make sure that the little ratcheting lock on the winch works. Cable, not rope, you have enough to worry about with that trailer already.

- You will want a good lashing strap around the back of the boat to tie it to the trailer, or ratchet straps on both sides.

Thanks for the advice Scipper! I have a couple questions & statements in response:

Anti-cavitation plate... the horizontal fin right above the prop?
How do I know if I'm running it too deep or too shallow then?

When trailering - I'm running my Johnson TN-28 on this boat if/when I get it seaworthy. I intend to make or buy a transom saver to brace the lower unit on the trailer when I'm going down the road. If I am not enroute to or from a lake, the TN-28 will be on a stand in the garage. This should be OK yah?

Trailer:

I have not checked the bearings yet, but it is on my check list.

The coupler with ball - I took those pics right after I was trying to figure out what size ball to use - that's my 1-7/8 ball & it goes in and out just fine.

Rewire - I've already got a new 4-flat wiring harness and new light fixtures.

Rollers and skids - I'll get the rollers freed up & hopefully not have to replace them. The skid wood is rotted - I'll need to fab up new with some scraps of indoor/outdoor carpet I have lying around.

Winch - it's loaded with black nylon rope of indeterminate age - thanks for the advice on using a cable, I had not thought of that rope breaking at a bad time! The winch turns freely and the rachet lock works fine. I'll need to lube the mechanism up is all.

Secure the stern - I have a 3-inch wide ratchet strap that I plan on using to strap down to boat to the trailer in the aft 1/3 area.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

This is a rough guide to AntiVentalation plate height:

This is only a rough guide. The motor could be at an ideal rpm range (w/ correct prop) with the AV plate anywhere from 1-2" above or below the keel & or bottom edge of the transom.

Different configurations of motor, prop, AV plate location & overall lower unit design and the thousands of available boat hull choices, make it only a rough guide. Just like 3 or 4 different pitch & diameter props will 'work' on your motor for your intended purpose: hole shot, top speed, fuel economy etc; different AV heights might work more or less ideally. Less lower unit in the water has less drag then an AV plate & lower unit that are too deep... Similar to running a long shaft motor on short shaft transom.


Hope that ^^ helps....

 

[Kris.J]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Got it, thanks JB!

Based on that, it looks like this 12' Sea Nymph plus my TN-28 will be a "good enough" match - especially considering the motor was free!

I've been keeping an expense log on what I'm putting into this boat, trailer, and motor.

Total expenses so far including the original $50, registrations, certified scale fee, parts for trailer and motor, EVERYTHING - $342.

The only expense left is the cost of the boat repair. I've had one welder tell me $100-$150.

 

[scipper77]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Here is how I set up my 12 footer. Make note of the pvc conduit running along the floor.

Also you can see where I mounted a trolling motor connector in the port side corner brace so that there is a plug with a cover.

Also you will see how I secure the motor with bungee cords.

The battery box, not my finest work but it gets the job done.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Nice grab for less then $400 all in :facepalm:

That was the starting point on my last 'yeah, it's definitely a water ready purchase....' Duh. you could say I'm well above that figure now...

 

[scipper77]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

As far as the bunks are concerned, do not waste your time with carpet. Carpet is meant to protect the finish on your hull. Your boat is not painted or fiberglass. All the carpet does is trap moisture and rot the wood faster. I would just coat the bunks with whatever you use for the transom wood.

 

[scipper77]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Nice grab for less then $400 all in :facepalm:

That was the starting point on my last 'yeah, it's definitely a water ready purchase....' Duh. you could say I'm well above that figure now...

If you are referring to the above pictures those are of my boat, not the OP. I posted those for him to see how I set up my very similar boat. But you are correct, I have about $300 into mine. Boat and trailer for $150, both motors for free (uncle and coworker), $50 for the deep cycle battery, and $100 ish for battery box, winch cable, coupler, lashing strap, impeller for lower unit, and head gasket.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: I got this boat & trailer for $50 USD! - Couple of Questions

Got it, thanks JB!

Based on that, it looks like this 12' Sea Nymph plus my TN-28 will be a "good enough" match - especially considering the motor was free!

I've been keeping an expense log on what I'm putting into this boat, trailer, and motor.

Total expenses so far including the original $50, registrations, certified scale fee, parts for trailer and motor, EVERYTHING - $342.

The only expense left is the cost of the boat repair. I've had one welder tell me $100-$150.

Nope, I was talking about Kris'

But nice grab on yours too, scipper.... For about the same $350 as Kris'