I know...ANOTHER decking question...

[GreenF350]

I did some searching on here and found that apparently decking replacement is usually quite the job. I don't mind the time spent or even "some" money, but before I start I want to make sure I can handle the job. The boat is a 1991 Tracker Pro-V 17. I know it's nothing special, but I got it very cheap and have already put a bunch of work into the motor and I kind of like it. That being said, most of the threads on here are on fiberglass boat and refer to the transom, stringers and what not being bad also. This is an aluminum boat and APPEARS (Key word) to only be rotted basically in front of the drivers seat. The rest of the deck I can jump on and it is solid (I'm about 160), especially the fishing decks in the front and rear. What is the best method to go about repairing this and is it worth it. I would rather not sell it and get a new or newer one, but thought I would get your opinions. Thanks.
-Aaron

 

[redfury]

Re: I know...ANOTHER decking question...

You are way ahead of us fiberglass guys Green... You can just replace the wood that the rotted area of the floor is at ( a patch ) or you can replace the section of the floor that the rot is in ( most floors are installed in sections )

Make sure you use stainless fasteners and whatever wood you use, be it pressure treat or exterior grade plywood, you want to make sure you seal it well, and treat the holes you make to mount it to the boat, and anything you mount to the wood so it doesn't rot again. Really, it just takes patience to do a job that will last.

It's easy to fall into the trap of getting close to being done and just wanting to use the boat and " remount the seats later and seal the holes then, so I can go fishing now", because you probably never will, and will be right back at replacing rotted wood later.

 

[oops!]

Re: I know...ANOTHER decking question...

You are way ahead of us fiberglass guys Green... You can just replace the wood that the rotted area of the floor is at ( a patch ) or you can replace the section of the floor that the rot is in ( most floors are installed in sections )


It's easy to fall into the trap of getting close to being done and just wanting to use the boat and " remount the seats later and seal the holes then, so I can go fishing now", because you probably never will, and will be right back at replacing rotted wood later.

heh heh heh........ aint that the freekin truth !


yer runnin a tinny man.....!...its a cake walk.....no more than 48 hrs !......rip to run !


dont forget to glass the underside of the wood as well....and the edges too !

.......uh.....dont forget to check the foam and stringers............you lucky dawg

cheers
oops

 

[oops!]

Re: I know...ANOTHER decking question...

this is another tinny deck.....


http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=246184

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: I know...ANOTHER decking question...

actually on all the tinneys i've done, i have never glassed the deck. 3 coats of good oil base paint. the top coat with non skid finish. i do coat all side of the material. never put carpet on it. and keep the boat covered.

 

[Coors]

Re: I know...ANOTHER decking question...

Are we sure that the new pt, and ss screws, are nice with aluminum?

 

[GreenF350]

Re: I know...ANOTHER decking question...

Good question....What material should the screws I use with the aluminum boat be? What are the stringers made out of. I guess if they aren't rotted and they aren't aluminum then it doesn't really matter.

Where, if anywhere is a good place to find the "blueprints" for the boat? Is it just trial and error or can the company (Tracker) get me the original plans? This sounds like it is somewhat as easy as I had hoped. Thank goodness it isn't as difficult as the fiberglass jobs. Thanks for the info, so far it has been really useful.

-Aaron