Re: I read beginners guide, but what about i/o's
Allright, killing time before a meeting, I'll take a shot ..........
1) Do you keep the outdrive down, middle, up? If up, do you need a brace so it won't bounce? If i am going down a shallow canal, is it ok to idle with trim up?
Keep the outdrive up when trailering. Hydraulic pressure holds it there. You don't really need a strap or brace, unless you also wear suspenders with your belt to hold your pants up just in case.
It's OK to idle with the TRIM up. There's a difference between TRIM and TRAILER positions. Upper limit of the TRIM position is 20.75" center to center on the hydraulic cylinders on an Alpha, 21.75" on a Bravo. If adjusted correctly your TRIM limit switch should stop your drive from going any higher than this when using the TRIM switch. Any higher puts a lot of angle on the U-joints. It's OK to run the drive anywhere within the TRIM position. To raise it higher you use the TRAILER position (might be another switch, or could be the single switch, just mash it harder to go into TRAILER position. Depends on your controls). All that being said, lots of people do not even bother with the limit switches once they crap out, just keep the drive down when running it!
2) How hard can i power the boat up the trailer if the boat ramp is not ideal?
As hard as you want as long as the drive is down (remember the U-joints?). Be aware lots of people frown on this as it washes out the back of the ramp. I usually idle onto the trailer. It's in deep enough that the boat stops on the bunks a foot or two before it's all the way to the bow roller. Then winch the last little bit. Not sure how this technique would work if you have a roller trailer.
3) How do i find out what is most efficient cruising speed if i want to cruise up and down the intercoastal?
Couple of ways to find the most efficient cruising speed for your boat, with your typical load:
- Easiest way is to get a fuel flow meter, run at a constant speed, then divide speed by fuel flow to get miles per gallon. If you're doing 30 mph and using 10 gallons per hour, you're getting 3 miles per gallon. Do this at various speeds.
- Fill the boat up (or use a small auxiliary tank) and go a known distance (GPS is good for this) at a constant speed. Then fill the tank back up. If you went 3 miles and used 1 gallon of gas, you're getting 3 miles per gallon. Do this at different speeds.
4) do i winterize in gainesville fl?
If there's a hard freeze and you have water in the motor you could easily crack the block. When I was going to U of F (20 years ago ... lived off Archer Road) my wife had a Triumph Spitfire that didn't have any antifreeze in it (OK, I was young and stupid then as opposed to old and stupid now!). It froze one winter night and luckily only popped 2 freeze plugs out of the block. You need to completely drain your motor if there's a chance of a freeze.
5) if i buy a manual will it have oil change interval's and is it by the hour or months
All manuals I know of have maintenance intervals. They will typically be in hours or years. For example, change the oil every 50 hours, change the water pump impellor every 2 years regardless of hours.
6) Pliers, electrical tape, adj wrench, phillips head/flat head screwdriver, what other tools to keep on board?
I believe in carrying lots of tools. At a minimum I would take a knife, small socket set, pliers, vise-grips, phillips and regular screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, hammer, electrical tape and duct tape. Get one of those orange plastic Plano waterproof ammo-box looking boxes and put everything in it. You'll have plenty of room, add whatever else you can think of you might need. Keep it stashed in the engine compartment. I've personally never needed mine, but usually end up dragging it out every other weekend or so for someone else out on the water to use something in it! Also, a spare prop and a floating prop wrench can really save your a**. You don't have to hit anything to spin the hub in the prop. Age, effects from chemicals in the water, etc, can weaken the rubber bond until it just lets go one day. Was sure glad I had mine when I needit it!
7) Trailer question, the brakes are out on the trailer, not sure if disc or drum (boat to be picked up on sunday), i have changed many brakes back in college on my 87 olds cutlass, would these be the same type to change, i wouldn't mess with the hydraulics but brakes are brakes unless its abs, right? do they have a master cylider?
Hydraulic (usually surge, sometimes electric over hydraulic but I doubt it on your trailer) trailer brakes are like simple car brakes. They have a master cylinder on the tongue of the trailer. Don't be surprised if all your hydraulics are rusted up due to lack of maintenance. Drums or discs are simpler than a car. Electric trailer brakes are also simple, they use a solenoid instead of a slave cylinder and don't have a master cylinder.
Good luck with the boat, hope you enjoy it as much as we do ours!
