Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Spooner2010 · Dec 2, 2010

Long story short I have a 16? aluminum boat with a 40 horse Chrysler outboard on it. Got it a week ago as a gift. Know nothing about outboard motors let alone Chrysler motors. My anxiety level is high to say the least. Was told they saw it run but there was a lot of white smoke and ran a little rough. I?m hoping it?s bad gas or fouled plugs or something simple.

First of all how can I go about finding out what kind of Chrysler motor this is?
Are Chrysler motors rather sturdy/dependable?
Are they cheap to fix and maintain?
Are there any manuals on them?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated at this point to help settle my fears.

Thanks in advance.

Frank Acampora · Dec 2, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

No need to worry!

First, inside the lower engine cowl below the carb will be an aluminum plate with the model and serial number. That will positively identify the engine as to year, model, and size.

Parts are not available for older Chrysler engines through Mercury dealsers, BUT There are a few old Chrysler dealers out there with available parts and there are some old outboard sites where you can hunt up needed parts. And yes, manuals can be had, both in paper, disc, and on-line versions.

The engines themselves are dirt simple (They were around when Christ was a cub scout. The designers told God where to put the dirt! LOL) They are simple to work on with, for the most part, only hand tools necessary. Perform routine maiintenance, keep the fuel/oil mix at 50 to 1 ratio and never let it overheat due to a worn out water pump impeller, and it may just run forever.

The only thing that puzzles me is that you say you have a 40. To the best of my knowledge, Chrysler never made a 40. They made a 35, 45, and 50, but no 40. Once you find the ID plate, you will know the actual size and if indeed it is a Chrysler at all.

Spooner2010 · Dec 3, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Wow thanks for your post Frank that sets my mind at ease a little. Simple is good. I have never owned a boat so I?m still learning the terms and lingo. Now a ?cowl? is a cover? Or the outer skin? So the lower cowl would be the cover of the part that is in the water?

My dad says the guy he bought it from told him it was a Chrysler and I think he is the one that told my dad it was a 40 horse. So I will try to get out and get the serial number and model over the weekend. So if I bring that info back here you?ll be able to look it up?

Water pump impeller. How much do those usually run. Since you don?t know the model yet can you give me a ball park on a 45 horse? Are we talking $50 bucks or $500? Do you think the water pump is pretty much the only part that would need to get replaced on a regular basis?

The suspense is killing me. I gotta tear into that thing this weekend and solve this mystery.

Thanks again for your post.

Nordin · Dec 3, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

The lower cowl is the lower part that the topcowl fits in with.
So when you take off the topcowl you have lower under the powerhead.
The id.tag sits just infront of the carb at the lower cowl if it is a 35, 45, 50Hp.
Water impeller coast about 25-30 dollar. You can get it from ex. Iboat, Ishopmarine or a Mercurydealer.

Spooner2010 · Dec 3, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Sweet!!! Thanks Nordin!!! $30 bucks is VERY chewable. My worry had been that this motor is rare and parts for it are impossible to find. So when I do find parts they cost a bundle. This is setting my mind at ease. I?ll get the upper cowl off and look in the lower cowl this weekend and get the info. Would it be smart to get it into a shop to have it looked over, have the compression checked and maybe the carbs cleaned? That way I would know the motor is solid? Or is that something I could do myself?

Frank Acampora · Dec 3, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Should be a single carb, try first and see if the engine runs, before cleaning. Just because it is old, doesn't mean it is varnished and clogged. Could be clean and bright inside.

Yes, you can do it yourself. DON"T bring it to a shop or mechanic: Most don't work on engines this old and unless he is very good, he will overcharge you and do very little.

Preventive maintenance: Definitely change the impeller--many engines are needlessly ruined by overheating. Change to lower unit oil, and change the fuel pump diaphragm. Unless something is drastically wrong you will have the engine running for 50 bucks or less.

wickware · Dec 4, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Spooner, Please attach some Pics of your motor with the cover off the motor. JOW

Spooner2010 · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Well I got the cover off over the weekend and discovered even more of a mystery. The guy that sold it to my father said it was a Chrysler. So I take the cover off and low and behold it says it?s a West Bend Model-50571, 50 horse. Sorry to have bothered you guys with the wrong motor. I don?t see a forum for West Bend outboards either. This just keeps getting better by the minute. I do have pics if you guys want to see them. Even though it isn?t a Chrysler. Let me know if you want to see them and I?ll post them. Thanks guys for all the help you have offered. Again I'm sorry about the wrong motor thing.

Frank Acampora · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

No mystery there! Chrysler bought West Bend in the early 1960s. They did not change the design until much later--Even early Force 50 HP used many of the same parts. So, your engine can use Chrysler parts and possibly some Force parts. However, you will need to become a bit creative in your thinking when swapping parts.

wickware · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Please post the Pics. I would like to see the relations. JOW

Spooner2010 · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

First 5.

Spooner2010 · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Last ones.

Frank Acampora · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

YEP! Same block, midleg, lower unit, and prop as later Chrysler. Older fully cast aluminum WB carb. Chrysler changed the coil mounts early on to the port side of the head and later on to the starter side of the block.

OOOOh! Bottom cylinder has been overheated--look at the color. Before you do anything else, crank it over and check compression.

Oh, crud---look at the duct tape on the wiring. Buy or scrounge up a terminal board and attach it to the exhaust cover, then terminate the wiring correctly. ---- NEVER MIND---Did not see the terminal board in the first set of photos.

Someone replaced the original coil with an automotive coil on the top cylinder--no problem if it works. Red finned thing by the starter is the selenium rectifier. Your engine is alternator, battery ignition, electric start, short shaft. 10 inch prop--actually, 10 3/8 X 11 1/2, 12 1/2 or 13 1/2 pitch

Points (under flywheel) are set to .020 open at high point on cam lobe. If you have no spark, first check wiring, then if still no spark, clean and reset points. After reinstalling flywheel, retorque flywheel nut to 95 foot pounds.

Note that the top starter motor mount bolt has broken the flange on the block. This was a common problem and Chrysler did offer a steel plate to repair. I have found that you can also drill through the side and install a 10-24 bolt to hold the broken piece in place. Chrysler also made a bent steel plate to fit between the bottom of the starter motor and the manifold to help absorb some of the sideways thrust (that breaks the flange) generated during cranking.

Spooner2010 · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Frank Acampora said:
YEP! Same block, midleg, lower unit, and prop as later Chrysler. Older fully cast aluminum WB carb. Chrysler changed the coil mounts early on to the port side of the head and later on to the starter side of the block.

OOOOh! Bottom cylinder has been overheated--look at the color. Before you do anything else, crank it over and check compression.

Oh, crud---look at the duct tape on the wiring. Buy or scrounge up a terminal board and attach it to the exhaust cover, then terminate the wiring correctly. ---- NEVER MIND---Did not see the terminal board in the first set of photos.

Someone replacer the original coil with an automotive coil on the top cylinder--no problem if it works. Red finned thing by the starter is the selenium rectifier. Your engine is alternator, battery ignition, electric start.

Points (under flywheel) are set to .020 open at high point on cam lobe. If you have no spark, first check wiring, then if still no spark, clean and reset points. After reinstalling flywheel, retorque flywheel nut to 95 foot pounds.

Note that the top starter motor mount bolt has broken the flange on the block. This was a common problem and Chrysler did offer a steel plate to repair. I have found that you can also drill through the side and install a 10-24 bolt to hold the broken piece in place.

My dad saw it run. He said when he started it, it kicked out a ton of white smoke and ran rough. He guessed it was either bad gas, too much oil or fouled plugs. Would this overheated cylinder cause that? Are there other things that would cause it?

How do I check for compression?

Where would I look for this steel plate? How necessary is it? Could it leave me stranded if I didn?t repair it right away?

With it having the same block, midleg (what?s a midleg) lower unit and prop, does that mean parts are going to be fairly easy to find and relatively cheap to repair?

wickware · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Spooner, You can see some relations to my 1970 35HP Chrysler. Thanks! JOW

Frank Acampora · Dec 6, 2010

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Midleg is the part between the block and lower unit. It carries the tilt yoke and transom clamps.

Asa far as the steel plate, I have heard of them but never seen one. You could try franzmarine@aol.com but if you drill and tap across the break for a 10-24 or 10-32 bolt, it will reinforce it. NO, ot won't leave you on the water. If the starter shifts, it will not engage the flywheel and then you will simply rope start the engine.

Compression is checked with both plugs out. screw a compression gauge into the plug hole and crank the engine at least 4 turns or until the gauge stops rising. Really low, like 20 pounds is no good. Anything over 100 is good. Both cylinders should be within 10 pounds of each other.

Yep, parts will be relatively easy to find.

Spooner2010 · Jan 5, 2011

Re: Identifying a Chrysler outboard

Hey guys!!! Just got some more (better) pics. Please let me know if anything else jumps out at you. I still haven?t gotten it in to get it checked over. Enjoy the pix guys.