Idle troubles when warm ?

oxbeast1210

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309
Te150slcem 1989 evinrude xp tracker

Hi guys thanks for helping me out so much ,
The motor has gone a long way but I'm still
Having issues. My main problem is that it does
Not idle well it usually will stall after about 5 seconds.
The strange thing is that when I first put it in the
Water it idles and runs perfect all the way to
WOT. my issue is that after it warms up it does not
Idle seems like it's missing and also shakes alot to.
it won't alow me to put it in gear unless I rev it up with
The lever first. Can someone point me in the right direction
And a smart way to troubleshoot it so I don't spend money
On stuff I don't need .

Compression is good
Spark seems good but haven't tested it after getting warm due to work hours
Fuel pump is new (Vro)
Fuel is fresh
New spark plugs


Most of the coils seem to be cracked all but one

If I'm Missing any information u guys need let me know
Thank you
 

emdsapmgr

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Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

You could have a spark issue on one plug, causing your problem. It is not unsual for weak ignition components to begin to fail when the engine heats up to normal operating temperatures. When the engine is fully warmed up and begins to run poorly, check the spark on each plugwire with an inductive timing light. The flashes from the gun should give you an idea of the quality of spark on each plugwire. Confusing this issue is another feature on theat engine: The 89 150S (XP/GT) models had the newer, single power pack. With that pack should come a feature called Quickstart. Quickstart temporarily added a few degrees of timing to a cold engine to assist in idling characteristics. Once the powerhead heated up to 92 degrees, the temporary spark advance would return to normal timing. If you have poor idle/running after quickstart ends, you could have an issue with the pack, stator, or flywheel magnets. Check the voltage output of the stator closely.
 

oxbeast1210

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

Thank you for this very informative post !
I'm going to try and test this things you suggested .
I have another question If QuickStart doesn't take stop till
Around 92 degrees, should I be setting the idle stops screw
during quick start or should I do it after it disengages?
I didn't know about this feature so currently it's
Set up for when QuickStart is still going and at 900 rpm
In neutral .

Lastly, can any of the components you told me
About be counted out as being faulty if it runs perfect
At any speed above idle . warm or cold if I manage
To get it in gear without stalling it runs fine and can go
All day only stalling if I try to idle or stop . Is it possible
they can still be faulty at idle but work fine at other speeds?
Thank you for your time
 

oxbeast1210

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Messages
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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

Hello just an update I went out to look at the motor again and i noticed that the lever on the primer solenoid was pointing straight down is there a reason why the mechanic would have put it there i thought it was supposed to pointing back with the solenoid?
 

emdsapmgr

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Messages
11,551
Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

The red lever on the cold start solenoid has two postions, a run and a service positon. When you want to run the engine normally, the length of the lever should be paralled to the length of the solenoid. If it is at a 90 degree angle, it is in the wrong postion. A mechanic may have left the lever in the service position when it was last winterized. You would normally want to set the idle speed on any engine-once it has warmed up. This would mean you should wait till the quickstart advance is cancelled. Check your tach, you should see the idle rpm drop about 200 rpm. The idle on that engine should be set to 650-750 rpm when the boat is floating normally in the water and it is in gear. If it runs full throttle-it is unlikely that you have an ignition problem. Once you get the idle rpm's set correctly and it still does not want to idle (misfiring or lean sneezing) you could have some debris/dirt in the special/dedicated idle passages of the upper carb bodies-affecting a normal idle. Correcting that will require carb overhauls.
 

oxbeast1210

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

I took it out about an our ago and adjusted the idle screw and i had no issues at all the who time it idled great and everything. that was at the 90 degree angle the mechanic had left it at if i place it the right position it will die unless i use the key choke

will it hurt the motor to run with the lever at 90 degrees?
why would it die unless i choke it if it is in the normal position?
(carbs?)
thanks

by the way my rectifier seems to have burnt up it was glowing green and smoking !! i made a post about it if you wanna read
thanks
 
Joined
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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

This would mean you should wait till the quickstart advance is cancelled.
Question about quickstart?
When you set up timing with engines that have quickstart, do you have to ground out the temp switch or does the switchbox run predetermined time, only effective at a certain rpm? When setting timing I have always grounded out the temp switch to tell switchbox engine was up to temp.
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

If you run the engine with the fuel primer in the service postion (not run position) you are masking another problem. Leaving the red lever in the service postion opens this cold start fuel line to the carbs. It provides another sourch for fuel to the carbs and permits them to draw a small amount of extra fuel through the cold start system directly into the carb throats. At higher throttle postions the engine will probably absorb the extra fuel an appear to run fine. At idle on a "normal" engine, this will overfuel the engine and it will not idle normally. If your engine shuts down when the red lever is in the "run" position, that means the engine is running lean-starving for fuel. Overhaul the carbs and make sure to blow out the fuel passages in the carbs. You have a restriction somewhere.
 

oxbeast1210

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

ok thanks you i just had the carbs rebuilt about two weeks ago and it wasn't cheap lol im going to have them check for a restriction and if the cant find one they are doing the carbs again thank you
 

oxbeast1210

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

i really want to learn how to rebuild them myself on a scale of 1-10
10 being the hardest where would you rate rebuilding the carbs on my motor?
thanks
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

These carbs are probably the simplest around. Really. The important part of the overhaul is to make sure the passageways in the carb bodies are clear. Remove all the jets and do a visual inspection. (These jets require a special screwdriver to get them out. You can order that screwdriver-part number 317002 from any Bombardier dealer.) Make sure there is no debris/restriction in them. Use some aerosol carb cleaner and blow out one passage on one carb-noting the spray pattern coming out of the carb. Go to the next carb and do the same passage, noting the spray pattern coming out. Insure they flow at the same rate. Go on to the next passages, etc. If you are going to get into repairs, you may want to get an original factory manual from Ken Cook Co., in Milwaukee. They are also on the web. Bombardier carb kits include new floats. The manual is especially helpful, clearly describing the sync and link procedure to set the carbs correctly with the timing advance.
 

oxbeast1210

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

I actually got lucky and the boat came with two manuals a seloc one and a factory service manual from evinrude im just not sure where the wife stored them lol but as soon as i fin them ill try and get started on the carbs
if i do the carbs do i have to redo the whole link and syc or just the part where I make the butterflies oepen and close at the same time? im sure the manual will tell me but there is no telling when they will be found
thanks again for taking the time to help me!
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

The sync and link is not always affected when you R&R the carbs, but it is possible. Once the carbs are re-installed, you will want to check to see if things are still in alignment or not. If you have a factory manual, you can toss the Seloc. They are not good for much.
 

James R

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

Here we go again. Why people insist on talking about the aerosol cleaners beats me.
There is only one way to clean carbs properly. They must be stripped and the parts soaked in a solvent that will break down the shelac, you know, that brown crap that collects in the tiny bores in the carb bodies. Not just any solvent as most solvents capable of breaking shelac down can damage plastic parts and finishes. I use, and have used most successfully for some years, Gunk carb and parts cleaner, available from your auto parts store. Follow the instructions and make a good job of it. Remember if the carb on a two stroke is not working fully you are starving the cylinder, crankshaft and bearings of lubrication.
Hope this helps.
Of course if you have an ultrasonic cleaner as I do then there is a little insurance, as I use it after doing the soaking.
Before the advent of my US cleaner the Gunk product was perfectly adequate. I am just a little fussy about carbs.
 

oxbeast1210

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

lol who was talking about t aerosol cleaners ?


thank your for your advice James don't worry i plan on following your directions and breaking them down and cleaning every nook and cranny :)

thanks
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

Aerosol cleaners are an inexpensive way to visually show flow rates through the passages of the carbs. I have seen differences between flow rates between carbs-due to restrictions which were not removed/dissolved by other cleaning methods. Sounds like you have a sure method for cleaning carbs-that works.
 

oxbeast1210

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emdsapmgr u were right!

emdsapmgr u were right!

HEy just wanted to give an update i decided to get into my carbs as you guys suggested the first thing i noticed was that gasket sealer was applied to the gaskets. i thought i had read that was a major no no . anyway the carbs were all very clean looked new but one had a jet clogged with sealer !!

and on the middle one there was sealer blocking the part in the picture below what is that called by the way? anyway behind the plug made by the sealer there was a bunch of black stuff. even after submerging in the cleaner
it was still there so i followed emdsapmgr's advice with the aerosol a last resort and what do you know it got the stuff out! i think it was mostly the air pressure but either way thanks

lastly would that passage being clogged effect my Idle?
thanks
 

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

Did you remove the core plugs and clean the passage and the the three tiny holes that allow for idling fuel? Viewing your photo they look like the factory orignals. If not squeeky clean your idle will suffer. Roger
 

oxbeast1210

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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

Which are the core plugs roger? can you explain to me also do the come with the carb kit?
i'm still waiting for it
thank you
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
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Re: Idle troubles when warm ?

You may have found your problem. You don't need sealer on the carb bowl gasket. Bad things happen if any of that sealant winds up in the bottom of the bowl......
 
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