If I am going to rivet instead of weld in gunwhale braces

[lfreng]

What rivet would you recommend. I have a 77 lund S-18. I got some 2" c-channel that I will cut to the profile of the gunwhale. My dad brought down his plasma cutter so I could cut the curved profile in the aluminum. I can add in some tabs on the curved portion that can be bent over to rivet to the hull instead of welding. Researching welding on here it looks like there are a lot of variables that can go wrong with welding aluminum. I was going to hire someone to weld it but if they dont do it all right it will probably crack and I am right back at square one. Pretty sure my pop-rivet gun isnt the answer

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: If I am going to rivet instead of weld in gunwhale braces

lfreng,

You should really keep all of your posts together in one thread. It makes it a lot easier for all the members here on the forum to follow along with your project. You should PM a Moderator and have him combine them for you.

 

[lfreng]

Re: If I am going to rivet instead of weld in gunwhale braces

Will do.

 

[sschefer]

Re: If I am going to rivet instead of weld in gunwhale braces

You can use a closed end blind rivet with your pop rivet gun. I used to get mine through Fastenal. Use aluminum rivets also. Those aren't structural so all you need is a couple of 1/2" or less welds. Tacking them isn't the best because you don't get enough heat on it and the tacks tend to crack but that will happen with any aluminum tack. Take it to a welding shop it will be a much cleaner job and won't cost you much if you prep it first. TIG or MIG will work. If the guy is really good he'll break out the Oxy/Acetlyne torch. That would be more of a "watch this trick" moment and not necessary. The only time you have to worry about cracks is when your working on a split or a tear in a hull or around riveted areas where the stress cracks are already present but just not showing yet.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: If I am going to rivet instead of weld in gunwhale braces

The aluminum closed end blind rivet with the steel mandrel is an extremely strong rivet.
You can buy them here:
http://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

Your "pop" rivet tool will set the 3/16" diameter if it is in good working condition and you have enough strength to grip it.

I personally would use the 1/4" diameter, but you'll need the heavy duty setting tool for them (it'll also make setting the 3/16 easier). You can get a cheap heavy duty tool from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...and-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html

I personally bought the better quality one from Jay Cees where I buy the rivets.

 

[lfreng]

Re: If I am going to rivet instead of weld in gunwhale braces

The aluminum closed end blind rivet with the steel mandrel is an extremely strong rivet.
You can buy them here:
http://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

Your "pop" rivet tool will set the 3/16" diameter if it is in good working condition and you have enough strength to grip it.

I personally would use the 1/4" diameter, but you'll need the heavy duty setting tool for them (it'll also make setting the 3/16 easier). You can get a cheap heavy duty tool from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...and-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html

I personally bought the better quality one from Jay Cees where I buy the rivets.

Thanks for the links! I will definetly pick up the bigger tool. You never know what you are going to rivet down the road... as far as the 3/16" rivets. I have 1/8" thick brace tabs (.125"). What would you guess the boat hull thickness is? just judging on how much it flexes it must be 1/16" or 3/32"?? Just trying to figure out the grip length I need on the rivets. Also do you recommend the aluminum sleeve with the steel mandrel for strength? I see they have al/al too. Are those too weak? Do I have to be concerned with rust w/ the steel mandrels? The popped side will be on the exterior of the boat and below the water line in some cases. I will be getting the closed end style for water tightness with some epoxy applied to further water proof it.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: If I am going to rivet instead of weld in gunwhale braces

Thanks for the links! I will definetly pick up the bigger tool. You never know what you are going to rivet down the road... as far as the 3/16" rivets. I have 1/8" thick brace tabs (.125"). What would you guess the boat hull thickness is? just judging on how much it flexes it must be 1/16" or 3/32"?? Just trying to figure out the grip length I need on the rivets. Also do you recommend the aluminum sleeve with the steel mandrel for strength? I see they have al/al too. Are those too weak? Do I have to be concerned with rust w/ the steel mandrels? The popped side will be on the exterior of the boat and below the water line in some cases. I will be getting the closed end style for water tightness with some epoxy applied to further water proof it.

You will be fine with the .125-.250 grip range.

Since you're going to get the heavy duty setting tool, I recommend the 1/4" diameter closed end rivets with the steel mandrel. If rust is a concern, just dab some epoxy in the hole after the rivet is installed. The 1/4" dia. with the steel mandrel are very strong rivets, and you need strength for fastening a brace. You'll see how strong these rivets are after you install the first one.