ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

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Mar 8, 2005
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hi,<br />last trip of last season as we came back in from a day out the engine cut out at about 2000rpm. It had plenty clean and new fuel(filtered) and the batt was fully charged, however it would not restart. let it cool and still no start (at the time i didn't check for spark). I have been busy doing other things like head gaskets as i wanted to see if the engine was worth saving.<br />I have discovered some things that need clarification T<br />The wires on the motor side and the control side all check ok.<br />The kill switch and key switch and netural switch ok.<br />as far as i can see from the tests i have done The powerpack coils timer stator seem ok.<br />The rectifier ok.<br />The regulator i replaced as the wire was crap. I have now found that the yellow wire has somehow grounded and the one on the new part is not. Has this any bearing on the ignition problem? The only other thing out of the ordinary is the fuse in the motor side of the harness, it was damaged and now is snapped in half with each half in the holder. I have looked at the wire diag. and am wondering if the engine would crank with the fuse blown but not start?<br /><br />any input appreciated. :confused:
 

OBJ

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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

The engine will not crank if the fuse is blown Andrew unless the ignition switch has another source of 12V's connected to it. Was the fuse blown or just the glass was cracked?<br /><br />To check the kill switch, ign. sw., you can disconnect the large red harness connector at the engine and jump the solenoid with a screw driver. This will let you test for spark or even start the engine...but be aware that the engine will not shut down if it starts. You would need to choke it out.<br /><br />To really check the stator out, you will need to run some ohm and cranking tests to get out puts to the power packs. A peak reading volt meter is needed for this.<br /><br />Have you noticed any goo laying under the flywheel? How was the yellow wire grounded....chaffed insulation or through the stator? <br /><br />An OEM service manual would do you a whole bunch of good right now with the troubleshooting.
 
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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

The yellow wire on the voltage regulator is grounding to the case of the regulator, which is in turn grounded. The yellow wire on the new component is insulated from the case and not grounded(both the parts aren't on the engine). I can't say that i have noticed any goo from the stator and beleave me i have been looking. I have a seloc and a clymer manual and the cdi trouble shooting print out, the oem service manual is just so expensive over here. I tested the resistance of the stator and the timer and the coils all readings are not quite in spec buy about 5ohms i also tested the diodes in the power pack rectifier all ok. i have also tested for contiuaty from stator to ground and from timer to ground test ok the fuse snapped in half when i opened the case however i think that it was just the fat tips of the fuse that were touching without the "fuse" bit in the middle. It might not have been touching. I am uber lost! I will go and test again just to check however cant turn engine over as i have removed the starter for inspection. The stator and timer cost in the uk about $996.97 at todays rate!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

oh i used a continuity tester to test the switches key, cut off and neutral. as i have the box apart to replace the trim switch. Trim switch equivalent price $90.
 

MCM

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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

Just to add to OBJ's advise. Replace the fuse, its a 20amp 32 volt fuse. Without the fuse the motor won't crank, if it blows again then you'll need to some more testing to determine where its making contact with ground.
 
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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

I think that if i cant figure it out now i will rebuild with the same components(cleaned tested) and try the trouble shooting again. I just wanted to make sure i had not overlooked anything.
 

OBJ

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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

Andrew, you need to get the starter back on and do some cranking tests. Readings ohms will not always lead to the fix. Do the tests as I outlined above....disconnecting the big red connector....and go from there. <br /><br />Also, check ALL ground connections on the ignition system. Make sure the grounds are clean and tight.<br /><br />Drop me an email at outboardjim@comcast.net and I'll send you a write up on troubleshooting the ignition system. It's short and sweet and will help you out.
 
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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

ok I hope to get the starter back on this weekend run it straight with jumpers from the battery.
 
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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

At last got all the bits in one pile and in the right order. from cranking the engine over i found that the spark was very week so week that you almost could not see the spark. So i took the kill switch wire out of the 4 wire connector thus eliminating it from the circuit, and thank the lord there was a spark! so i am now hunting for a new kill switch. I was checking every thing with a multi meter the other day and noticed when the switch was 'made' the resistance was about 2ohms however when the switch was 'broken' the resistance was about 605ohms i thought the resistance should have been ~high, it should be ~high and it is not hence there was no spark. Thanks to all how have helped me with this.
 
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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

mixed news. I needed new fuel pump as the insude of the old one had parted. The new one is great much better. I started the engine on the muffs and runs great I think the check valves helped this. I am considering a change to a looper 140.
 

OBJ

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Re: ignition problems v4 140 1983 trlcte

Thanks for posting your fix Andrew. Hopefully your experience can help someone else out...... :)
 
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