ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

roonie

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boating along....engine just quit...got towed home. Tested spark...no spark on all 3 cyl. I got onto the CDI website and it stated to check for oil coming from area near stator......sure enough a coat of light oil leaking from stator area below flywheel on engine block. I went ahead and ordered a stator prematurely....that i now know, but also read that these evinrudes were prone to bad stators. The bit of oil (flywheel now removed)seems to be coming from below the trigger coil.
Anyway...my first question is ......after looking through an online older evinrude manual, it states to follow testing procedures as follows....

test #1 ignition coil output check

test #2 trigger coil output check

test #3 charge coil output check

test #4 power pack output check

test #5 key switch check

test #6 sensor coil low ohm check

So tell me, ...are these older manuals of value or are there better/faster ways of troubleshooting. I guess im wondering if there are shortcuts used now a days to speed up testing things. any help would be great. I would take this to a shop but lyme disease took care of that so my brain is getting a good work out with this, to say the least...lol. still have my sense of humor though. And no...i do not own a compression testor that works at the moment. Thanks
 
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kodibass

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

to me this looks like the basic step by step for the components affixed to the power head, the sign of oil is pointing you to possible trigger/stator breaking down..but the first thing I would check is the key switch and more to the point the kill switch---black wire with yellow stripe disconnect that wire and recheck for spark, if still no spark proceed from the CDI website trouble shoot section for your motor. good luck
 

Bosunsmate

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

Yes all three at once sounds like key switch.
If you have a safety line that cuts the motor that often goes faulty too.
Do as above^ and heres the cdi link
ISSUU - CDI Electronics Practical Outboard Ignition Troubleshooting by CDI Electronics

A $10 multimeter normally allows sufficient testing of the trigger and stator, i just do the ohmns test on them, if somethings busted enough to stop spark on all three cylinders the resistance test should show that up.
 

phillnjack2

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

oil up by the stator !!!
are you sure its not a top crank seal gone bad and film of oil is covering electrical contacts stopping them working ?.
any signs of oil would lead me to be looking at the seal.


just my thoughts
phill
 

roonie

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

Thank you all folks for your quick reply and response. Ive got tools on loan so this realy helps out. I have a couple more questions ......

#1...to me the oil leak appears to be heading downward....the triggers look really clean...ive swipped the contacts and the white rag looks next to clean.

#2...what should i be cleaning the light rust off with that shows on the flywheel?

#3...Is this seal leak that bad...bad enough to change? How tough a job is it to remove this seal and replace it...any special tools or similar to a v8 motor seal?

#4...Kodibass......explains to check key switch and kill switch....i need someone to be more elaborate on this please....is this black wire with yellow stripe to be disconnected at the key/ign. switch to test? Is the test to be performed with key on....batt. connected?.....what please. Sorry for sounding so dumb but i would hate to make things worse than they already are....if ya catch my drift. Thanks again folks for all the help.

#5...just want to know what other things i can check with my NON DVA tester....ohms etc...before i have to go get a DVA type tester or add on?

#6...if the stator turns out to be good...is it good practice to change it out while i have the flywheel off as i do have a new stator in hand....or should i try getting my $200+ back from CDI.

Incidentally...my new stator has none of this green plastic coat on it. The new stator is just bare bones...windings exposed. I suspect this is what i read about on their website...that with the new stator "technology" there is less chance of overheating...more like...trying to save money by not encapsulating the windings in this plastic coat material....oh...the corporate tellings.
 
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racerone

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

There are no electrical contacts here that are bothered by a bit of oil !----The components under the flywheel can be tested without removing the flywheel.
 

roonie

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

yes but i do not have a DVA tester racerone. The flywheel was removed because i assumed the oil was from the stator. Yeah i know...my and my mother taught me to never assume anything. lol
 

roonie

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

to me this looks like the basic step by step for the components affixed to the power head, the sign of oil is pointing you to possible trigger/stator breaking down..but the first thing I would check is the key switch and more to the point the kill switch---black wire with yellow stripe disconnect that wire and recheck for spark, if still no spark proceed from the CDI website trouble shoot section for your motor. good luck

Can you please be more specific as to where i locate and test this black wire with yellow stripe.....like where do i disconnect the wire from etc.....key on...key off etc. keep in mind while i have worked on a ton of cars all my life, marine is very new to me and since getting lyme disease...well.....lets just say my thinking is ....mmm.....different. thanks and sorry for sounding soooooo dolt...ish
 

roonie

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

just bumping in hopes of getting some final answers on the leak pictured and the other questions i need answered ..thanks
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

Testing Spark..... Remove all spark plugs, hook up a tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spatk to jump. The spark should be a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! No tester?... build the following:

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine. Crank the engine by jumping the solenoid from the battery terminal of the solenoid to the small 3/8" nut that energizes the solenoid.... Do you now have spark? If so, either the ignition switch has a short in it or the BLack/Yellow wire (kill circuit) has a conductance short within the wiring harness leading from the engine to the ignition switch (Usually it's the switch).

If still no spark with that RED connectoir unpluged... it's normally the powerpak that has failed.

Your stator look okay to me as does the timer base.
 
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roonie

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

Thanks Joe.....is the leak below the timer base anything to worry about.....looks like crank seal. Is it tough to change. thanks again
 

Bosunsmate

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

If its the crank seal then yes you need to change it otherwise you will be leaking air in there soon and boom goes your top cylinder.
cant tell if you can lift the top cover off on that motor, if you can then its quite easy if you have the correct puller. The pullers a three legged flywheel type normally only $20 or so
 

roonie

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

If its the crank seal then yes you need to change it otherwise you will be leaking air in there soon and boom goes your top cylinder.
cant tell if you can lift the top cover off on that motor, if you can then its quite easy if you have the correct puller. The pullers a three legged flywheel type normally only $20 or so

Top cover?? Do you mean flywheel.....the flywheel is already removed...see above pics. Can i not just remove the timer base and get at the seal from the top....bit confussed by what your saying here. thanks
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

Thanks Joe.....is the leak below the timer base anything to worry about.....looks like crank seal. Is it tough to change. thanks again

Roonie.... With the timer base installed, it's hard to see just how bad that seal is, or if the leak is elsewhere (it happens). However, if you run the engine for a test, the engine isn't going to blow up.

Remove the timer base to get a good look at the leak. Temporarily sit the flywheel on the crankshaft and finger tighten the nut, grab the flywheel and see if you can move it sideways to any extent... a thousand or two is okay. This is to see if the top main bearing also needs replacing.

Now, if the top seal is actually leaking, or if the bearing is worn, the complete top bearing and seal housing assembly can simply be removed as a unit making the seal removal/installation quite easy. If the bearing requires replacing (not likely), use a hand help propane torch to heat/expand the surrounding aluminum to help free the bearing. Make a note of exactly where the bearing sits in that housing (depth).

The top bearing/seal housing assembly is a tight fit but not a extremely tight jammed fit... it will pry up fairly easy and installation is no problem. Use a sealer of some kind on the outer edge of the seal... and grease only on the housing O Rings.
 
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roonie

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

so ....very similar to a seal being replaced in an vehicle axle etc. Thanks so much Joe and others
 

racerone

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Re: ignition.....testing procedures 1977 70hp evinrude

No seperate cover / bearing housing on the 3 cylinder models !!!!
 
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