impeller replacement part 2

[spete]

Trying to button up the lower/impeller replacement job ('98 yamaha 115) and i wanted to know what needs to be greased or have adhesive used. The Clymer manual i have indicates to grease the metal insert cup and use 3-M weather strip adhesive on the big o-ring to keep it in place. Wondering about the inner small o-ring and wether or not it needs grease or adhesive? I'm assuming no grease on the gasket material/wear plate, but grease on the driveshaft and shift splines? Do i grease the impeller or leave it dry? Just want to make sure that I'm doing the job properly. Also, is there any reason to remove and inspect the drive shaft seal/bearing below the water pump?<br /><br />Thanks!

 

[BF]

Re: impeller replacement part 2

Hi,<br /><br />I'm not familiar with that motor in particular, but I think it depends on what was wrong in the first place... if the seal in the water pump base plate was bad, I'd want to check that it wasn't caused by lateral movement from a bad driveshaft bearing. If you're just doing an impeller change and didn't have any problems, I'd probably just put it back together. By lubing the inside of the metal cup, you are lubing the impeller. Some say a bit of dish soap or light grease... I don't think it matters, you're just trying to keep the bone dry impeller from melting before it starts drawing water. A bit of grease on the splines is good, but make sure the top of the driveshaft doesn't have any on it, or it can keep the driveshaft from fitting in all the way.I wouldn't mess with the shift shaft seal unless you are re-doing all the seals, or you know that it's leaky (from a pressure test).<br /><br />As for what thing's get sealant... I'm not sure for that motor, I'd follow the manual... don't go crazy with the sealant or the next time it'll be a PITA to change the impeller. I'm not sure where the small 0-ring goes... in a groove on the driveshaft as a "slinger" washer (?)<br /><br />It's helpfull to have a helper slowly move the flywheel by hand as you try and slide the LU back up, it gets the splines aligned.<br /><br />good luck.<br /><br />Brent

 

[spete]

Re: impeller replacement part 2

Thanks Brent for the response - the small o-ring fits into an inner cap groove - inside the plastic pump housing top between the metal insert impeller cup and then there's a larger o-ring that seals the bottom of the plastic housing to the wear plate. Don't see why one would just require grease and the other a sealant. Would rather just use grease on all if possible?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: impeller replacement part 2

hello<br /> use grease<br /> no adhesives<br /> place the gasket on then the plate then drive the key in place. slide the impeller down the shaft followed by a washer then the wavy washer then a washer then the nylon retainer then the steel collar. then while pulling up on the drive shaft tap the collar down with a small piece of pipe or other suitable tool. I use the aft part of the merc torq-flowII prop hub. ok now to the housing. place the small oring in the groove with grease. then insert the cup making sure its fully seated. next fill the oring groove with grease and insert the oring. spray the insert with dishwashing liquid. now bring the housing assy down the shaft. when it hits the impeller start twisting the shaft clockwise while pushing down on the housing. it will seat on the dowel pins. grease the 4 12mm headed bolts and tighten them to about 13 ft pounds or so. then its gear case installation time.<br /> time for a refreshing beverage<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[spete]

Re: impeller replacement part 2

Thanks a bunch! I didn't think that the oring should require sealant but you never know what an application might require. I appreciate the good tricks of the trade! If there's a long wait from the time i get JC buttoned up and then into the water does it matter that the insert is just sprayed with DW soap? Will it dry and not give the lubrication that's needed? I know it sounds a lot retentive, but i didn't know if a light coat of 3 in 1 oil on the insert would be a safer bet?<br /><br />Can't wait to bolt 'er up and have that cold one!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: impeller replacement part 2

hello<br /> i really dont care about long term lube. as long as its in the water or on the muffs it wont be dry. its easier to twist the shaft if ya lube it and some oils will attack some rubber and rubber bonding compounds. that is why I dont recommend oil or grease unless I am positive its not going to sit at all. <br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[spete]

Re: impeller replacement part 2

Duh! Sometimes one can just plain over anal-ize stuff. Makes good sense that you're just spraying material it to ease into place and then it's just like any other time in/out of the water. Thanks again for all the help - afraid i've already had the cool one before finishing the job. Hell it' s Friday!<br /><br />p.s. - RB ... it's obvious that Kitty Hawk has an affinity for superior mechanical minds

 

[rodbolt]

Re: impeller replacement part 2

hahaha I dunno bout no affinities but the wind blows a lot and we do have a holiday inn