Installing a new ESA

[SHickey]

Hello all,

Tomorrow I am taking the day off and I want to get my 86 19' Blue Fin 2.3 Liter OMC operational again after a long winters rest. At the end of the season I had difficulty shifting from D to N and after some checking and messing around I bought a new ESA module which I will be installing.

After I install the new ESA and get the motor running with the muffs, would I be able to test the shifter as it sits on the trailer or does the LU need to be submerged for it to shift properly. I would much rather test it on the trailer as opposed to launching it and have the shifting components non operational.

You guys are always great with your advice so let me know what would be the best way to solve this annoying shifting situation.

SH

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Installing a new ESA

Just depress the shift interrupt switch and see if your motor stumbles to see if it is electrically hooked up right. To actually see if it works while shifting, you need to be in the water. If your shift cable is worn/sticky, it may operate when you shift out of the water but its not supposed to.

 

[SHickey]

Re: Installing a new ESA

Bruce,

Thanks for the response. From what I gather, you are telling me that after I hook up the ESA and if is is working properly (dropping RPM's), I will not be able to actually test the shifting N-D-N-R unless I am in the water.

Is this due to the resistance the water has on the prop and the overall shifting mechanism operation??

I am hoping this new ESA will solve my difficult shifting problem!!!

Thanks again Knowledge is power!!

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Installing a new ESA

Yes, when in gear, the water force against the prop driven by the engine keeps the dog gears meshed. If you are out of the water, there is no such force.

If your shift switches aren't working properly, a new ESA won't solve your problems. I am assuming you have tested to see if those are working properly.

Also, make sure the ground for the ESA harness where it bolts to the block is good. i would remove it, clean it down to bare metal and reinstall it.

 

[old-outboard]

Re: Installing a new ESA

I thought I had the same problem with my 1986 3.0L, but it turns out that the pin connectors in the rubber plugs of the wiring harness of the ESA had broken off inside. Consider spending some time checking the continuity of the wiring harness before putting too many parts on.

 

[SHickey]

Re: Installing a new ESA

Well I installed the new ESA Fri but did not get a chance to fire up the motor and test it out. That job will be done tomorrow and I am keeping my fingers crossed this should fix my shifting problem. Thanks for the responses and I will let you know how I made out.

SH

 

[SHickey]

Re: Installing a new ESA

Well, I got my motor fired up and yes the ESA works!! When I manually close the microswitch the motor cut right out. I may need to adjust the travel on the microswitch so the it just barely engages when I am shifting.

I had my 2.3 liter running for @ 20 minutes and I noticed the temp gauge did not move at all. It stayed at 100 the lowest reading on the gauge. The outdoor temp was only 50 degrees and the water I am running through the muffs is also @ 50 degrees. I thought the motor temp should be @ 160 since I just installed a new thermostat in the motor or I am thinking my temp sending unit is bad. I also noticed the oil pressure was @ 65-70 psi which also seemed a little high to me. The oil was fresh from a head gasket job preformed last year by the previous owner and probably has less than 20 hours. The oil looks brand new to me.

Should I be worried??