Installing rebuilt long block - recommendations for additional maintenance

[fuelinaround]

Planning on installing rebuilt 4.3 after finding water in all three cyl on port side and water in oil. Long story short, Initial check of dipstick did not show water in the oil so exhaust manifolds and riser were replaced (it was time 4 years). Water issue continued in cylinders, after pulling intake found water mixed with oil in the valley. Intake gasket did not show any signs of failure. No obvious cracks on head or intake. After pulling the head and finding cooling passages clogged decided it wasn't worth the money or effort to rebuild this block. Planning on going with a rebuild from Rapido.

Boat is a 2001 19.5 Bayliner Capri Cuddy. I run 95 % salt with no freshwater cooling. Flush at ramp and salt away when I get home 100 % of the time. 700 plus hrs on original engine.

I've done a bit of research and being my first time tearing into a boat wanted to get some feedback from the experts here on any additional maintenance item that need to be done or should be done while I have it apart.

My current plan is to replace the engine with a rebuilt longblock, new intake, new water circulation pump and use my existing starter, disty, carb and alternator. May also add freshwater kit but funds will decide if I'm able to.

Additionally I'm looking at replacing u-joints, bellows, shift cable, gimbal bearing, water pump impeller (housing,impeller, ect..) and cleaning and painting bilge area.

I do have a good assortment of tools as I have been tearing apart things for many years now, it's the install that gets you . I'm going to need to come up with an alignment tool, but other than that is there any additional special tools or suggested maintenance that anyone recommends. Just wanting to make sure I have it all covered. Thanks in advance.

 

[MarkSee]

Re: Installing rebuilt long block - recommendations for additional maintenance

Since you are willing to put money into the boat I'll assume you are thinking of keeping it for some years.

If I were replacing my engine, I would have a professional hull guy check the transom and stringer systems for any abnormally high levels of water content as this would be the time to correct any issues there if needed.

I would also have a pro. check the complete transom assembly (inside and out) along with the Y pipe as this would be the time to re-fresh those components if needed.

Mark

 

[fuelinaround]

Re: Installing rebuilt long block - recommendations for additional maintenance

Yes I do plan on keeping the boat atleast another 4-5 years. Just don't want to deal with issues all summer keeping me off the water. Never thought of having the transom checked. I suspect any decent shop would provide a report that may help resale later.

 

[NHGuy]

Re: Installing rebuilt long block - recommendations for additional maintenance

If the motor has a new flat tappet cam it will need to be broken in properly. The breakin involves using break in oil, priming the oil system, pre filling the carburetor bowl, and presetting the timing so the motor fires on a couple of turns of the starter. You start it up and immediately go to 2000 to 2500 rpm, for 30 minutes. The high'ish engine speed assures oil to the cam right away on startup. Excessive cranking without a start will wipe away the assembly lubricant.
If it's a roller lifter cam you just start it up when ready. Rollers don't need cam break in, plus they have better power due to lowered friction and steeper more modern cam lobes.
I have been researching the flat tappet stuff this winter. I'll be doing mine with a marine performance cam in March or April when things warm up.
While your engine is out you may also want to replace and re wire your bilge pumps and float switch. How are you bilge vent hoses? How about your anti corrosion Mercathode system, is any of that tough to reach?
For a salt water boat I'd try to find the $ for closed cooling, keeps the corrosive salt out of the motor. Or barring that maybe you can get the block with the treated cooling passages.

 

[achris]

Re: Installing rebuilt long block - recommendations for additional maintenance

....Additionally I'm looking at replacing u-joints, bellows, shift cable, gimbal bearing, water pump impeller (housing,impeller, ect..) and cleaning and painting bilge area.....

Why? :noidea: If they are showing signs of wear then yes, but if they are still in perfect condition, why?

The old engine (1994 4.3LX) from my boat is now in a friends' boat, and it's still running the original Gimbal bearing, uni-joints and shift cable. And they show no signs of needing replacing any time soon. I still maintain his boat for him. The engine has almost 2000 hours on it and the only things that have been replaced (apart from regular service items; impeller, plugs, oil etc) are the drive front seal, the uni bellows, the oil pan was pulled off and hot drip galvanised, and an ignition coil.

In your position, I would replace the uni joint bellows (the ends of the hinge pins rub on the sides of the bellows and that wears a hole in them. Keep an eye on that), also check the upper shift shaft seal in the top of the exhaust cavity of the bell-housing, and do a normal drive service (replace impeller and oil).... If the gimbal bearing, uni-joints and shift cable are good, leave them alone!

Chris.....

 

[fuelinaround]

Re: Installing rebuilt long block - recommendations for additional maintenance

@NHGuy-Engine will come with roller rockers so not sure on break in procedure. I'm asssuming it's similiar to rebuild for cars. Honestly haven't done any research on the subject yet and will also ask for the rebuilders recommendations. Leaning more towards fresh water kit.

Chris, good point. I'll definitely take a look and see if I can save some cash. I do suspect the u-Joints are bad as I get a ticking noise when I have wheel cranked all the way over to the right or left.

Thanks for the input. Pat

 

[NHGuy]

Re: Installing rebuilt long block - recommendations for additional maintenance

All that malarkey I wrote is unneeded with a roller CAM. Rockers don't affect break in.
So if it has flat tappet lifters you'll need to ask your builder if it needs break in.