Intermittent starter problem.

[mark156531]

I have a 1980 Johnson 75hp. I'm having an intermittent starter issue with a two year old starter from China. If the boat sits for more than a day the starter will not engage. I hear the solenoid click when I turn the key but the starter does not engage. I've rotated the starter by hand and retried it with no success. However if I keep trying the ignition key eventually the starter engages and from that point it will continue to work properly even after shutting the engine off for an hour. I'm wondering if I should replace the brushes?

Thanks, Mark

 

[StarTed]

Sounds like a solenoid problem to me. You may have burned contacts in the solenoid.

 

[oldboat1]

Clicking solenoid usually means the solenoid switch is working. I would take apart all connections and polish them with some sandpaper, then make sure they are tight (starter through solenoid, back to battery).

 

[jakedaawg]

I think you should use a remote start switch. Place one clip on the battery + the on the small yel/ red of start solenoid. Press button. If starter doesnt spin place one lead on each of the big terminals of solenoid. Lress seitch if starter spins replacensolenoid. Just because it a solenoid clicks doesnt mean it works.

 

[mark156531]

Jakedaawg, I didn't have a remote start switch so I used jumper cables. I connected the negative cable from the battery to a metal bracket on the engine and touched the positive lead to the positive connection on the starter. The starter did not turn. However when I took the starter off of the engine and laid it down on my dock and performed the same test it did turn. When I put it back on the engine it also worked but the next morning it was dead again. Does this prove that it is a bad starter or would this be a false test?

 

[oldboat1]

"dead again" using the same battery and jumper cables (i.e., identical procedure) as the dock test? Your battery has to be fully charged, with sufficient cranking amps to operate the starter. If in doubt, take it to an auto parts store and have it tested.

Your use of jumper cables may be faulty. The positive stud on the starter is isolated from the starter body, incl the nut at the base (probably know this). Additionally, the ground has to be solid (paint can block connection).

Can be keyswitch or connections at keyswitch (connections anywhere in the circuit, which is why they all have to be shiny and tight). If using the small battery studs for connections, with wing nuts, use a pliers to tighten down the nuts a bit past hand tight -- after cleaning and polishing wire ends.

 

[jakedaawg]

Just disassemble the starter and inspect brushes and comutator and bearings. Clean it up. Reassemble. Test. Still recomend a remote start switch. They are less than 10 bucks at the big cheap store

 

[jakedaawg]

Get the switch. Jump from battery+ big terminal of solenoid to small terminal with the yel/red wire.

 

[jakedaawg]

Dont use a cheap switch accross the two big terminals. It cant jandle the amps. Use a thick jumper wire accross the two big terminals of solenoid.

This is all assuming you had your battery load tested. Not just voltage check.

 

[mark156531]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I will try them this weekend. If I hear the solenoid clicking could the key switch still be bad? Will a voltage meter connected to the solenoid or starter tell me if the key switch is sending enough current or does the voltage not tell the whole truth? Do the amps need to be tested as well?

 

[jakedaawg]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I will try them this weekend. If I hear the solenoid clicking could the key switch still be bad? Will a voltage meter connected to the solenoid or starter tell me if the key switch is sending enough current or does the voltage not tell the whole truth? Do the amps need to be tested as well?

Clicking solenoid means key is working, it does NOT mean that the solenoid is working. A solenoid can click but not transfer amperage because the plate inside get burned. It will sometimes show volts but when dealing with a high amperage situation just showing volts is not enough. For instance, you can separate a single strand of copper wire and get your meter to show 12 volts there but it wouldn't transmit any amps.

Just 12 V on the little yel/red wire is all you need to check as far as key switch. If you hear it clicking the key is good.

You should have your battery load tested if you have not done so already.

 

[oldboat1]

Good luck, Mark. Intermittent problems can be tough. Check iBoats for parts.

 

[Fed]

5 Minutes with a voltmeter and a helper to hit the key for you will sort it out.
Any high resistance connection will show up under load with a drop in voltage.
Start at the battery posts, get a reading under load then work your way towards the starter motor.

Take special care of exactly where you are testing there's a difference between the battery post and the lug that id bolted to it, likewise with the solenoid and starter motor posts & lugs.

All bets are off if the starter motor is spinning but the bendix isn't rising to engage, if that's happening then clean & lube the bendix spiral spline.

 

[StarTed]

Another test is to connect a voltmeter across the large terminals of the solenoid. You should read battery voltage when key is off and no voltage when key is in start position. If no voltage when clicked, the solenoid is good and you have a starter problem. If no voltage when key is off you have an open in the starter.

I've seen electric motors with flat spots depending where it stops. Turn the starter motor a little by hand and try again.

Good luck