Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70 35H

[wickware]

Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70 35HP Chrysler?s lower unit?

1. I do not have a cotter that small, my mechanics wire is slightly smaller, that fits outside the pin?s washer.

2. I feel I used mechanics wire in 1985 but it was larger than the 19 GA. Galvanize steel wire I have now.

3. Would a snapping/clipping pin work just as well in the tight working area vs readjusting shift linkage?

4. We tend to forget, be more cautious as we get younger as time blast away. What was the original keeper/material used?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

JOW

 

[robert graham]

Re: Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70

Wire, cotter pin or whatever, it needs to be stainless steel...lots of water down there! Good Luck!

 

[wickware]

Re: Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70

Thanks for your reply!

Stainless is a good point but the small boat is only used is TX fresh water. Look at that piece of steel wire (that is not stainless) that has been there since 1985. It?s a pain to hook and wrap in that works-space (to avoid re-adjusting shift-linkage) and I wrapped it last in 1985. Plus, stainless, galvanize or plain steel wire is not what it was back then. I can not put a name on the hair-pin looking wire clip but it should be ideal for the tight job.

I think we look for ?NEW? questions at times. Except! I like to know what others have had success or problems with. Mainly, ?If you are checking impellers yearly? vs 3-5 times in your boating career if they are showing a good output. To close, I?m not fishing far from the ramp w/o friends in the area. How often do you check or change the water pump in your truck or car realistically to feel safe? Please note I'm not being defensive!

JOW

 

[kelscrusader]

Re: Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70

the wire clip you are thinking of is called a hairpin. It would work well in your situation. You can get them at Fastenal if you have a store near you.

 

[wickware]

Re: Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70

Thanks kelscrusader, for the reply and info. It?s hard to believe how small that hole is, which is possibly 1/6?. My attached 1/16? drill bit is close to my present smallest cotter pin that is too large. My 19 GA Galvanized wire is too small in my opinion and silver wire is too large. I?ll check my local hardware and auto stores for a stainless cotter pin, clip or larger SS wire (since I have not heard of Fastenal Etc.). It?s time to buckle-up the project, test the output, test the temp horn, test the dead tach that worked off #1 plug and etc.

Jow

 

[wickware]

Re: Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70

Home Depot had 1/16? stainless steel cotter pins. Please see the attachments.

1. They were amazed that I wanted to test the SS with a magnet and surprised that SS is not attracted to a magnet.

2. I had to drill the shift pin?s hole to 1/16? which was like a very light reaming with very little metal removed.

3. All worked well after drilling, with a tight fitting cotter, good locking bends and I documented tips learned.

4. Foam rubber (not shown) worked good pushing against the shift pin while I installed the washer and cotter pin.

5. A slight longer bolt/nut and removing shift linkage at the motor will give you more working window if needed.

6. I documented work in the window. A surprise was seeing a direct shot of water/tube & pump through exhaust.

7. This means my exhaust snout is missing. What is the purpose and problem if the exhaust snout is missing?

8. I?ll get to the seasonal cranking, pump?s out-put test, other test and etc. on the next nice day or soon.


JOW

 

[wickware]

Re: Is mechanic?s wire just as good as a cotter pin to retain the shift rod pin in 70

1. The Snout Is There!! I took the Pic of the water tube seated in the pump through the snout.

2. The snout on my version or 1970, 35 HP Chrysler is part of the upper gearcase casting vs a bolt-on. Clymer is showing it to be a bolt-on.

3. Plus, I was told this was a 1970, 35 HP Chrysler (vs the 55 HP cover) on a 1969, 15? Raycraft in 1985 when I purchased this ?Bream Finder?.

4. One Parts Supplier said the Engines Mod. 3555, Ser. 2365 was a 1972-73 in his data.

5. Most of all, it has needed very little service (from yearly general inspections) with my little use of about 2-5 running hours per fishing season.

Time is Showing And Felt on the Engine, Boat and Me!

JOW