Is this adequate for motor flushing?

[s.d.willie]

I picked up a set of flushing muffs but I would like something a little different. Judging from the angles in the picture would this be good enough?

 

[s.d.willie]

[No message]

 

[s.d.willie]

[No message]

 

[flyingscott]

No the water is not high enough. Use the muffs

 

[bruceb58]

The water needs to be above the level of the water pump.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Water needs to be up to waterline on boat. Or about 6" higher than that tub

 

[s.d.willie]

Water needs to be up to waterline on boat. Or about 6" higher than that tub

Thanks. Home Depot had a huge tall green landscaper barrel which would have been perfect but I didn't want to shell out the 50 clams for it. I'll stick with the motor flusher I guess for now.

 

[Mercurylips]

I take the prop off mine and use a $8 garbage can.

 

[EchoNovember]

To repeat what everyone else for good measure, no. Use the muffs or a tall garbage can. The water level needs to be above the level of the water pump, otherwise you run the risk of burning out the impeller. If you are flushing, muffs work just fine and are fairly inexpensive. If you are flushing with simple green or something else to CLEAN the water path and want to recirculate that water, then a tall garbage can, followed by muffs for a constant supply of clean water.

 

[minuteman62-64]

For me, a 30 gal. trash can sitting on top of a couple of 8x8x16 concrete blocks does the trick nicely.

 

[EchoNovember]

Thanks. Home Depot had a huge tall green landscaper barrel which would have been perfect but I didn't want to shell out the 50 clams for it. I'll stick with the motor flusher I guess for now.

Check Craigslist for 55 gal water barrels. You can get them for $20 or less. Cut the top off and you have a nice big one. You can add a drain valve to the bottom to make it easier to empty later.

 

[dingbat]

Scratching my head.....the anti-ventilation plate is pretty much flush with the top of the container. The same elevation it would be with the boat on plane in the water.

Why would it work on the water and not in a tub?

My intakes are a good 4-6" below the plate

 

[hardwater fisherman]

The way I understand is that the pump needs to be submerged to prime.

 

[flyingscott]

Scratching my head.....the anti-ventilation plate is pretty much flush with the top of the container. The same elevation it would be with the boat on plane in the water.

Why would it work on the water and not in a tub?

My intakes are a good 4-6" below the plate

The pump needs to be underwater when you start the motor or the impeller will start dry. The impeller sits above the cavitation plate at the seam between the lower and the midsection. When you first put your boat in the water the impeller is submerged by quite a bit. When you are running on plane water is being forced into the water pump so it is getting water. The impeller will prime itself if you start it dry but you will wear it out faster or have an outright failure. With muffs water is being forced into the impeller housing so the impeller is being lubed. Considering the impeller is rubber and most new housings are satainless that is a sticky combination.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Scratching my head.....the anti-ventilation plate is pretty much flush with the top of the container. The same elevation it would be with the boat on plane in the water.

Why would it work on the water and not in a tub?

My intakes are a good 4-6" below the plate

you need the pump submerged to prime it when you start. this is getting the water as high as the static waterline

when your on plane, just the forward thrust of the drive in the water forces water up the intake grids at about 60 psi to keep the pump primed.

so either: A - submerge the pump far enough to keep it primed. or B - use a set of muffs to force water into the intake grid at 60psi

 

[s.d.willie]

Thanks for all the responses. Returning the bin and will use the muffs for now. Will check CL for a cheaper drum thanks.