that's because ya got the stove pipe type.It is not electric
yep, on my auto choke there's a spec as to where to set that adjustment. in my case. ya set the hash mark in the middle. this is how you adj. how much the choke goes closed. i believe there's also a specification as to how much space is left open after the choke is closed by the cold spring. as it warms up the spring unloads and allows the coke to go to full vertical and full open..there appears to be another mechanism for adjusting the spring
i don't know. personally, i'd refer to my oem service manual to find out the answer to that question. if there's truely only one hole for a pipe. speculation would be that they must connect together prior to going off to the carbs. of course that's only a guess. i've not seen a dual carb set up w/stove pipes. so i've really no idea... just a guess..There seems to be one hole in the manifold that the choke could run into- do you think that the two carb or choke inlets could connect before heading down that hole?
on my last boat, that stove pipe had rusted off right at the top of the manifold. if memory serves me, i think i just used some break line bent to fit. + i had to drill out the rememnts of the old pipe to get a new one stuffed into the hole. i don't think i drilled real deep. just deep enough to get the pipe in the hole and support it + direct the heat up to the auto choke... when i did that, i had no idea where that pipe went in the manifold. so i didn't drill real far in because i didn't know what i was drilling into... i just knew i needed to get the heat rising to the choke..what would you recommend using to run the inlet to the manifold?
no, metal brake line. it needs to be small in outside dia. to go into the hole in the manifold. use a tubing bender to bend it to your desired dimensions..when you say brake line did you mean rubber line?