Johnson 115 1982 charching questions

[He rik]

Hi.
First, im not english (swede )so apologys for my grammar and vocabulary...and spelling, hope you understand anyway..

Ill got a 115-82, had it for about 25years but since 2005 it been on land, now its time to go skiing and fishing again so started it up and everything seemed to work as it should exept charging, model no J115TLCNB.

With multimeter it showed same battery voltage after replaced restifier (3 wires, 2y, 1r) engine on or off but havent tested full throttel yet just ideling and ca:2000rpm.
Original vas fried, might turned off main switch sometime in the past engine still running or it just died, remember the last trip 2005 whitout electric starter... but rope works fine.

Tach works fine, wot @ ca:5200rpm as before so stator seems to send something correct out, OL on meter between yellow wires from stator to ground, no missfire or any other problems, starts easy and seem in all OK.

Cleaned all ground connections and and connectors, looses 0,1 volt true the igniton checked on purple on engine compared to the red but thats it, same reading on battery and solinoid and red wire on restifier so good connecton there ill think

Anyhow, i got trim/tilt but not the ret/reg-combo, ret on starboard and regulator on portside as in the models whitout t/t, queston is if ill could just disconnect the regulator and hopfully see vultage climbe or do ill risk to fry something?
Can the regulator short out charging if broken or does it just not regulate and let voltage climb?

Or, how do I test the regulator on land?

Link to wire chart, think this is the right one, same setup anyway..
https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wi...4_V4_NOTNT.jpg

 

[He rik]

So, bougth myself a volt gauge, reads 12,6 engine off and same as my multimeter (12,57V), now a couple days later it still reads 12,6 so battery seems ok.
On idle and low rpm the same (below 2500) then it starts to rise up till ca:13,1 @4700rpm (to rough to go faster for my little boat this time).

When i connect my coolbox, 45W, voltage drop to 11,9 and stay there until I disconnect it, charging a phone (5A usb) and volt drop 0,2 (13,1-12,9).

No idea what stator it is but as i understand 6A is the smallest one so something must be wrong.

Havent tried to disconnect the regulator yet, going to do that next time im out and hope for the best.

Will update so others may benefit from my testing

 

[He rik]

Dead regulator...

Charge well above 15V regulator disconnected so everything else seems to work.
Managed to "regulate" voltage with my accesories, lantern, coolbox and stereo so voltage mostly stayed under 15V.

Ca: 13,5 ideling and quickly rised with the rpm.

New problem now, regulator seems to been out of production, what are my alternative?

Are there any newer rectifier/regulator-combos that fit?
Other regulators?
Build my own?

I think i want a regulator, +17V cant be good in the long run.

Maybe got a small carb prob. to, runs perfect cold and warm exept ideling warm, runs a little "rough" then, floatervalves maybe?
Starts easy warm/cold so no biggie.
I have a -80 2-stoke motorcykle (RD500) the floatervalves O-ring seal was bad so even thou the valve close fuel passed by, result in a little "rough" ideling warm but runs good in all, same construcktion in these carbs?

 

[racerone]

A 1982 V-4 in good condition runs very , very smooth.------Start your trouble shooting with a compression test.---Post your numbers here.

 

[He rik]

Ok, will do that.
As i understand its a big no no to comp.test on land with dry impeller, righ?
Is it OK to comptest with ignition off and use a jumper on the solinoid or do I risk to fry something?

But, will it really run perfectly with instant respons on throttle if one or more cyl is off?
Doesnt matter if I give full throttle or slowly open, it just speed up with perfect respons.

It runs really smooth exept ideling whit gear in, long 3 knotzone so just gear in for about 10 minutes, and a little rough in neutral, no shaking or missing, just ...not perfect

Really easy to start warm, just touch the key and iits on, cold just lift fastidle lever and prime.

But I will comp.test, measuring is knowing, maybe on saturday.

 

[oldboat1]

Should be OK to check compression dry, but if in doubt use muffs or dip the lower unit in a trash barrel with water about half way up the shaft. I usually test with all plugs removed. Crank only until the compression number stops rising.

 

[He rik]

Should be OK to check compression dry, but if in doubt use muffs or dip the lower unit in a trash barrel with water about half way up the shaft. I usually test with all plugs removed. Crank only until the compression number stops rising.

Think I just drop it in the lake, new impeller and housing and dont have a lot of water in my well...

Engine, hot or cold?

And ignition, on or off, should I disconnect anything when sparks are out or is it OK just let the plugwires hang?

Im fairly new to this, engine electrics/ignitionsystem but try to learn, mecanics Im better at.

How many hours is "normal" for an -80 twostroke outboard befor pistons are done if you just want to change them and keep boating?
I mean change them as a servicepart before troubles appears but maybe thats not at "thing" on outboards?

2-stroke bikes have serviceintervals on pistons so thats why I ask.


Thanks for help btw, really appreciated even if I dont say so, just pointing that out, goes to everyone who take your time and help in my and other treads!


Anyone got a alternative for regulator?
Or a combined rectifier/regulator that will work?

And yes, I will keep the motor even if I have to rebuild it, I know what I got and 115hp is 115hp -80 or new, as long as the rods dont play peekaboo...

 

[He rik]

A 1982 V-4 in good condition runs very , very smooth.------Start your trouble shooting with a compression test.---Post your numbers here.

After been out all day I did a comp.test with warm engine, the gauge I get hold to is graded to 300psi so its only markt every tenth so no exact numbers

Portside both below middle between 120-130psi, maybe 123-124 or so, starboard upper almost 130, just below and lower just over middle, say 126psi, seems ok to me (three test/cyl portsde but only two on starboard, close to same every time).

But, all plugs was wet, not just moist but small driplets on them.
Ideling with gear for about 10 minutes in a long nowake-zone just before the test.
And it smells unburnt fuel when it blowes from behind running mid speed too.

Got new sparklugwires, oem, the old ones was probably since the motor was new, still got the lable for wich plug to use so they are not the problem.

So where do I go from here?


And, I still want a regulator if anyone have an idea!

 

[oldboat1]

missed your earlier post/response, but sounds like you got it handled. Compression numbers are OK, imo. Wet plugs would mean the motor is running too rich, or the spark is weak. You might get an open air adjustable tester, and measure spark. Look for something close to 1/2 inch on each (measures ignition strength).

 

[He rik]

Think I did, google the **** about comp.testig outboards so hopefully I got it right.
Grounded plugs and multiple tests each cyl., but the gauge I got was not graded singel psi so I couldnt get any exact results so just for checking that I was in that region and it stopped at aproximatly same place each time.

My guess is as I said before the carbs and the fuel-level in the bowls so I ask again if that is a probably cause of the problem?

Floatervalves dont close completly or fuel seeps thrue beside the closed valve because bad seals.
Would explain why it runs smooth in higer revs but rough in lower, fuelconsumption in high revs is bigger than the seeping extra fuel so the level in the bowls are correct, or at least almoast correct.
In low revs the level rises and it runs rich.

Shouldnt a weak spark follow up in the rpm too?
And have a bit of a job to start with wet plugs and cold.

Going to order a open air adjustable tester anyway, might come in handy in my bikelife too.

But, if I buy all seals for the carbs and change them, is that a good start or should I order floatervalves/floaters too?
I dont like to change parts that works if they arent part that usully fails and are a bit of a huzzle to change so if the valves selldome fails I rather just keep them untouched.

Thanks in advance!

 

[oldboat1]

Measure spark and post results.

 

[He rik]

Measure spark and post results.

Wil do, orderd a spark-tester and hopfully it arrive before the weekend.

Feel like I missed to share a bit of information tough, a bit that might lead you in another direction, so here goes.

The first testrun was more or less the same as every other runs I done regarding ideling and behaviour, that run was with the old sparks since we stored the boat 15 yeras ago, second and third run with new sparks and the last two with new spark-leads.
The old ones were hard and with a resistance somwere between 2-3 ohm in three and the fourth has 7 ohm resistance and hade probably arced, black soot on the head behind it, new 0,00 ohm(0,01 directly probe-connection but dropped to 0,00 in a sec).
Still, it runs smooth and with direct throttelrespons, just rough ideling, especially warm and wet plugs after ideling.

I basicly change the impeller/housing, gear-oil and fueled it up and take it for a testrun to see if it worked after 15 years sitting out on land.

Wouldent this indicate strong spark and lead you towards the carbs instead?

 

[He rik]

Measure spark and post results.

Sat it for 13mm, just abvoe half an inch, and got a good, blue spark.
Engine warm and plugs in, leads off and grounded, exept for the tested one.

 

[oldboat1]

That's good -- particularly with the compression from leaving the other plugs in. Sometimes the flywheel doesn't spin fast enough to create spark unless all plugs are out (likely a starter or starter circuit problem rather than a problem with the ignition).

 

[He rik]

That's good -- particularly with the compression from leaving the other plugs in. Sometimes the flywheel doesn't spin fast enough to create spark unless all plugs are out (likely a starter or starter circuit problem rather than a problem with the ignition).

Sooo, carbs now? (comp., spark, what left is fuel/air?)

Or should I just learn to live with it?
Ths is normal behaiour?

It runs good unless ideling and it dont stall at ideling so...

 

[oldboat1]

I would work on the carbs. Get carb kits if available to you, but in any case disassemble, soak (I like lacquer thinner), carefully probe all openings for obstructions, finish with carb spray in every orifice.

 

[He rik]

Ordered the oem-kit w floater and valve so just waiting now.

Have read some says the floater shouldnt be leveld with the housing but be set to 7/16 otherwise the level is too high and it will run rich on ideling, correct or not?
I dont have the float gauge...

Might this be my problem?

If the floatervalves have got a groove it will close at a higher level....

 

[oldboat1]

Set it level with the inverted housing. Some set the outer edge slightly higher than the inverted housing, which would reduce the amt. of fuel in the bowl.

Set it level and see how it runs.

 

[He rik]

Got the kit today and have done the cleaning/rebuild now.

Absolutley no particle or debris at all, probably more dust inside now after I opened them than before but the floatervalve in the upper carb where worn out, got a groove and closed at a higher level if it ever close at all, the lower carb had no groove but the rubber on the needle has gotten hard and "shiny", may seep thrugh there to.

The gasket had lost its shape and where wet on the outside of the bowl so probably not sealed inside either, all in all it was very much time to rebuild these carbs.

Set the level parallell to the housing now and hopefully the whether allowes us to test tomorrow and I hope this will be enough but, if I have to lower the float-level, do you think I can do that without changing the gaskets againe or should I order a set of new gasket?

 

[oldboat1]

Should be able to reuse gaskets, if careful. But I've always just set floats level.

It sounds like it had been some time since the last rebuild, so you should see some performance improvement.