Johnson 1956 15HP lower gear work

Miller4519

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Jul 6, 2017
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So I dropped my lower unit and opened it up because it wasn't catching forward and reverse like it should. The previous owner had filled it with bearing grease from the looks of it. I used brake cleaner to get all that gunk out. I could not find the seal kit for my motor listed anywhere so I purchased Sierra kit 18-2684 because it fit the Johnson 18hp from 1958. It can't be that different? I pulled the top oil seal and it was a soild thick piece of brass with a very worn rubber center. In the kit there are two thin pieces that are the same diameter with an open back to them. Together they equal the same thickness as the original brass piece I pulled from my motor. Does anyone know if I can use both of those pieces in it's place? I assume the open ends would mate to one and other.
 
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Miller4519

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bspeth

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On my 55 I think I had to get some seals individually,and only replaced the ones that leaked
 

F_R

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Assuming they fit, the seals go back to back, lips pointing outward. The prop shaft seal in your kit probably doesn't fit, does it? You have to buy that one separately.
 

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tjandrews

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"it wasn't catching forward and reverse like it should." Sounds like you will probably need a new clutch dog, too.
 

Miller4519

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I got it all cleaned up and back together. I posted a photo of the parts along with a nail puller tool that worked awesome at pulling the seals. This kit worked great for my motor. I had to go buy a 5/16 steel rod to knock out the shift rod bushing. That was the easiest way. The piece of 1/4" all-thread with a ground down nut did not work. I fired the unit up in a barrel and the rpm's seem much higher now verses when it had the bearing grease in the lower unit. My issue now is that rod shift coupler is stripped. It would shift into forward, but not back into neutral. The shift rod would shift back and forth when I stuck a screw driver into the coupling and moved it up and down. I have since ordered a new coupling. Can't wait to see the speed of this motor now with the proper gear oil in it.
 

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Miller4519

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Assuming they fit, the seals go back to back, lips pointing outward. The prop shaft seal in your kit probably doesn't fit, does it? You have to buy that one separately.

Yes, the prop shaft seal fit from this kit. There seemed to be more in the package than what was pictured from Amazon.
 

Miller4519

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I have the new shift rod connector, but I'm having trouble getting it on correctly. Does it go on the bottom or top first and should it be in the forward, neutral, or reverse position when starting the connections?
 

oldboat1

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That's the easy part of your work. Doesn't matter whether on the upper or lower rod first -- also doesn't matter what gear it's in. I think it's usually left on the lower rod, so put it on the lower first. It doesn't hurt to open it up slightly with a bladed screwdriver, just to make sure the rods will fit easily. Note when doing the bottom rod how the bolt goes through the notch to lock the rod in place. When assembled, you should be able to rotate the assembly on the rod(s). When reattaching the lower unit, use the shift lever to move the upper rod into reach. Trick is to get the bolt into the hole without dropping it (and having to pull the l.u. again to dump it back out). Don't forget to align the water tube with the grommet while concentrating on the shift rod.
 

Miller4519

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Jul 6, 2017
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I found the issue. The long screw in the shifter handle was loose. Amazing how we make something so simple into something very complicated. I just tightened it up after installing a new lock washer on it and it shifts just fine. Thank you for the help guys.
 
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