Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

iwombat

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[size=+3]Johnson/Evinrude cold start procedures[/size]

This seems to come up quite a lot, so this FAQ is an attempt to capture the common cold-start procedures for the various types of ignitions, and fuel delivery systems for OMC outboards. The following are standard guidelines for cold-starting. Your particular outboard may vary, but these procedures should give you a good baseline. There is no substitute for knowing the particular quirks of your own equipment.

Regardless of the year and type of outboard the steps common to all these are:

  1. Ensure all battery connections are solid, and battery has a full charge (electric start only).
  2. Ensure the fuel lines are properly attached to tank and outboard.
  3. Ensure the fuel tank is properly vented. Buit-in tanks will have a dedicated vent line. Some portable tanks will often have a vent screw built into the cap, others will have auto-venting caps.
  4. Pump the primer bulb in the fuel line until it is hard. If the primer bulb does not become hard you may have other issues including an air leak, defective bulb, or misadjusted carbuerator floats.
  5. If you have electric trim, trim the motor up to eliminate excessive back-pressure during cold start.

You are now ready to start your outboard using the following procedures specific to you model.

[size=+2]Remote Keyed Ignition[/size]

There are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Solenoid activated Choke plates and solenoid primers. The starting procedures are the same for each.

  1. Place the motor in fast-idle and in neutral gear. Depending on your remote control box, this is acomplished in one of two manners. If you have a dedicated fast-idle lever pull that up between 3/4 to full. If you have a single-lever control and don't have a fast-idle lever, pull the throttle out to lock the engine in neutral and push the throttle forward. If you have a dual-lever control, leave the shifter in neutral, and advance the throttle.
  2. Push the key in, activating the choke plates or primer.
  3. Turn the key to start.
  4. After the motor begins to run, release the key so it returns to the run position and disengages the choke/primer.
  5. As the motor begins to stumble, bump the key in activating the choke/primer. You may need to do this several times until the motor can fast-idle on its own.
  6. If you tilted your motor up for cold-start, lower the motor to its normal operating position.
  7. Visually inspect tell-tale for solid stream indicating proper cooling.
  8. As the motor warms up, slowly begin reducing the fast-idle until the motor is able to run in normal idle on its own.

Additional Notes:
  • Choke Plates: It is often the case that the choke plates are not set so they close fully and stay closed during start. You can remove the outer air cover and visually monitor their operation during start. If they are not closed, or do not stay closed, adjust the position of the choke solenoid in small increments until this condition is achieved.
  • Quick Start: Because these systems automatically advance the timing for a cold start, raising the warm up lever may cause the timing to revert to normal at around 1100 RPM, before the engine is warmed to 96 degrees, defeating QuikStart. Those who have QuikStart may find that cold starts are better without the warm up lever, or with just a little. (thanks ezeke)



[size=+2]Tiller Start[/size]

As in the remote keyed ignitions, there are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Choke plates and primers. The starting procedures are different for each and are as follows:

[size=+1]Manual Choke[/size]

Choke plates are butterfly plates located at the back of the carburetor body. When engaged, they restrict the flow of air through the carburetor forcing more fuel to be drawn through the idle and mid-range jets while cranking. The choke is only effective while the motor is turning and drawing air through the carburetor body.

  1. Put motor in neutral
  2. Place the throttle in the start position.
  3. Fully engage the choke.
  4. Pull starter rope, or press start button until the engine starts.
  5. As the engine begins to run, slowly slide the choke lever in. The rate of choke disengagement will vary greatly with each individual outboard. Some require immediate disengagement, others require slow disengagement. Know your outboard.
  6. Visually inspect tell-tale for solid stream indicating proper cooling.
  7. As the choke is disengaged and the motor warms up, slowly back the throttle off from start to the shift position.

[size=+1]Manual Primer[/size]

The manual primer operates as both a fuel injector and an enriching device. The fuel injector operates w/o air being drawn through the motor. The enriching device is an alternate path from the carburetor to draw fuel through the primer and add more fuel during cold-start.

  1. Put motor in neutral
  2. Place the throttle in the start position.
  3. Cycle through one or two full pull-push operations on the primer knob. This will squirts fuel into the intake manifold.
  4. Pull out primer knob one half-to full out. This will engage the cold-start enricher circuit.
  5. Pull the starter rope, or press start button until the engine starts.
  6. As the engine begins to run, slowly slide the primer knob in. The rate of choke disengagement will vary greatly with each individual outboard. Some require immediate disengagement, others require slow disengagement. Know your outboard.
  7. Visually inspect tell-tale for solid stream indicating proper cooling.
  8. As the choke is disengaged and the motor warms up, slowly back the throttle off from start to the shift position.
 
Last edited:

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

YAF - Yet another FAQ.

Please review. Some of these procedures I don't have direct experience with, and there may be more procedures I'm not aware of.

Please comment.
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Nice Job,This needs to be a sticky!!
great info Iwomabat
 

F_R

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

I see it all the time, but I would like to know where the 8 second thing comes from. My owners' manual says to push the key in and hold it in while turning it to start. Unless there is pressure in the hose or tank, nothing is happening while you are sitting there holding the key for 8 seconds.
 

ezeke

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

I agree, F_R,

My manuals all say hold the key in WHILE engaging the starter for a cold start.

Joe Reeves even called other recommended procedures "weird" in a recent thread on this forum.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=216546&highlight=weird

Several members of this forum said they found it in their manuals, but when asked could not seem to find the source reference. I am still waiting for edification while enjoying the fact that I have no starting problems.:D
 

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Yeah, that's the procedure I have "no experience with". So, what's a recommended change in wording?
 

ezeke

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Why not quote directly from the owner's manual? It is fairly consistent. Or maybe you could ask Joe Reeves for permission to use his instructions:

"The proper starting method is to turn the key to the start position, then when the enging starts cranking over, push the key in to activate the fuel primer solenoid. Look upon that fuel primer solenoid as an electric choke as the result function is the same. Think about it... would pushing the key in eight times on a engine equipped with a electric choke accomplish anything?

With the engine cranking over, the vaccum and pressure created within the crankcase activates the fuel pump (regardless of what pump your engine might have), and that in turn cause a pulse of pressure to force fuel through the fuel primer solenoid to the intake manifold."

BTW, Joe Reeves usually reponds to inqueries on the forum at marineengine .com.
 

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

I have seen people mention bumping the key several times. Now, that makes sense with a primer solenoid. Other than that, it seems there's no difference between choke plates and primer for the startup procedures.
 

ezeke

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Bumping the key or choke switch is usually done if the engine is running, not warmed up, but seems to be about to stall.

It does not matter what carbureted engine it is after 1973.
 

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

thanks for the quote, ezeke. I had assumed the primer solenoid worked more like an electric accelerator pump and each bump was a squirt. Apparently, that's not so. So, is the primer just an enricher?

I'll make the appropriate changes shortly.
 

67Johnson6HP

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Re: "Manual Choke" #1 - From personal experience the "Start" position is not always accurate. I believe it was F.R. who advised me of this and my motor starts easily at WOT but, I turn back the throttle quickly after the motor starts. This may be something to add in some manner to your FAQ. Excellent idea for FAQ as I posted a thread asking for the same information.
 

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

I've been thinking of covering cases like that in an intro. Something like:

The following are standard guidelines for cold-starting. Your particular outboard may vary, but these procedures should give you a good baseline. There is no substitute for knowing the particular quirks of your own equipment.
 

ezeke

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

As you know, the choke plate cuts off the air so that the pistons pull a richer mix into the firing chambers, thus making it easier to fire.

Similarly, the primer solenoid allows the extra fuel to reach the intake manifold, where the pistons can then pull the richer mix into the firing chambers, making it easier to fire.

Using different methods, both systems accomplish basically identical functions of setting up the enriched fuel/air mix necessary for cold starts.

The action of the pistons and reeds in moving the enriched mix to the firing chambers is exactly the same in either system and will not function unless the engine is cranked, preferably by the use of the starter.
 

Solittle

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

I didn't read it in detail so you may have already covered my comment - Check to see that your battery is fully charged. This is one of the most common reasons that outboards will not start.
 

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Good point solittle.

Ezeke, thanks for the clarification. I was under the impression that it was more or less the electronic version of the manual primer, which actually does squirt fuel when you pump it. Again, I have zero experience with the electronic primer. I do see one difference though. The primer instructions clearly state to engage the primer AFTER the motor begins to turn over. I'm assuming the primer works better if its engaged after a vacuum is already established. It may be a red herring. If this isn't important, I'll combine the two procedures into one.
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Iwombat,I sent TD a link to make this a sticky...;)
Before it gets lost in all the Johnson threads..
 

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Okay, I made the following changes:

1. Added "know your equipment" section in intro.
2. Added battery check in pre-flight checklist.
3. Combined solenoid primer and choke instructions for remote start.
4. Changed Pull-Start to Tiller Start, and added pull rope/press start button.
5. Added visual inspection of tell-tale in each of the procedures.
 

ezeke

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

From my perspective that is a great article and should be a big help.

There is one note that you might add and that is for carbureted engines with QuikStart. Because they automatically advance the timing for a cold start, raising the warm up lever may cause the timing to revert to normal at around 1100 RPM, before the engine is warmed to 96 degrees, defeating QuikStart.

It takes a little getting used to, but those who have QuikStart may find that cold starts are better without the warm up lever, or with just a little.
 

iwombat

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

Added to the notes section and credited.
 

dajohnson53

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Re: Johnson/Evinrude Cold Start Procedures - FAQ submission

When you write about fast idle - I think you actually mention three different methods of doing fast idle, not two (1)"cold start" lever, (2)single handle control advance in neutral, (3)double handle advance in neutral).

Another minor detail - some single handle controls have a little knob you pull out - instead of pulling out the handle itself - to advance the throttle in neutral.

Minor point, covered in your "know your equipment" statement.

As for the above discussion of how long to push the key in to activate the primer solenoid. The 8 second thing, I believe, is definitely applicable to some engines. The '82 V6 I used to own DEFINITELY started much better if I primed it for a full 8 seconds. I tried the other methods as written above, but only if I primed for a full 8 seconds before engaging the starter, would it start well.

I got that tip from these forums and it made a huge difference. Now, my "new" v6 (1990) has instructions as quoted above, and it seems to start well that way. Haven't run it enough to state that strongly though.
Good job, good faq.
 
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