Johnson/OMC/Evinrude '89 140hp SeaDrive

[Unixslave]

Got a nasty no spark problem.

Ran last night. Dead unit this morning.

No Spark from the plugs/wires.
Disconnected kill/gnd cable so mags are hot, and disconnected key switch
and forced an ON/Start condition.

The 2 wires from Stator/Coil when disconnected and cranking produces 109 - 135V. Still No spark.

Transferred PowerPack from RUNNING Stbd to Port engine.
Still a no spark.

Injected 12v to the input on the pack to simulate 12v applied while key in START/RUN
No spark.

Only thing left since the wiring has been made to simulate the key/Power,
is the timer base. As far as I can tell.

Any real world way of testing this module before opening the wallet even more? The service manual continually refers to an obscure 'specialty meter' for testing this... any ideas?

TIA!!!

-Don

 

[Craftsman_85]

Re: Johnson/OMC/Evinrude '89 140hp SeaDrive

http://www.cdielectronics.com/downloads/troubleshooting guide/ Find your motor on this page (OMC) should point you in the right direction. Was like gold for me.

 

[Unixslave]

Re: Johnson/OMC/Evinrude '89 140hp SeaDrive

http://www.cdielectronics.com/downloads/troubleshooting guide/ Find your motor on this page (OMC) should point you in the right direction. Was like gold for me.

Gold my butt, Gold has value. That link is PRICELESS.
Think I am in love.


My sole concern would be the quote from the 'troubleshooting guide"

1. These timer bases are hard to test. Please refer to the OMC troubleshooting section.

Thanks, Regards

-Don

 

[Craftsman_85]

Re: Johnson/OMC/Evinrude '89 140hp SeaDrive

Glad I could help. I think that link deserves a Sticky

 

[Unixslave]

Re: Johnson/OMC/Evinrude '89 140hp SeaDrive

Glad I could help. I think that link deserves a Sticky

Definitely well worth the sticky.


For fyi, I took the main .pdf and ran to the dock. To my utter disgust,
it turns out the PowerPack and the Timer are bad. The previous owner had
those 2 modules replaced prior, as they are basically shiny and newer looking.

But since the bad pack prolly took out the timer, I am also going to consider a
suspect cylinder coil going bad, or failing under load to cause the internals in the
pack to go.

I am going to take the inner epoxy potting compound out and find the bad SCR, maybe redesign it with better fault tolerance and mebbe a higher rated part(s). Mebbe better SCR protection internally with the addition to a buffering diode and a capacitance filter or two in the circuit to make it more resilient.

My theory is "there is nothing an OEM can do, that a non-paid electronic tech can't
re-design better"

Again, thanks.